Firebird Headlights--ALL COMMENTS/QUESTIONS REGARDING HEADLIGHTS GO IN HERE
#342
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Wiggle and pull.
BTW, I'm done with mine. I pulled out everything and they are not going back in. Bunch of crap.
I'll probably mount a set of LT1 Camaro lights temporarily. until it can mount my projectors. I'm also cutting out that upper radiator support so I can mount the projectors deeper for a proper fit.
BTW, I'm done with mine. I pulled out everything and they are not going back in. Bunch of crap.
I'll probably mount a set of LT1 Camaro lights temporarily. until it can mount my projectors. I'm also cutting out that upper radiator support so I can mount the projectors deeper for a proper fit.
Last edited by JasonWW; 04-26-2008 at 12:20 AM.
#348
TECH Enthusiast
yep and it ended up stripping the gear so it stays down now. It use to cycle off but come right back up.
#349
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
So the gear is no good as well?
You can either buy a new motor, or just replace the gear and rig up a new stop. Do you have an electric welder?
No way JB weld will be strong enough. you might be able to epoxy a block of wood to the metal right behind the motor. That way the rod will rotate, hit the block and try and push it rearward and compress it.
You can either buy a new motor, or just replace the gear and rig up a new stop. Do you have an electric welder?
No way JB weld will be strong enough. you might be able to epoxy a block of wood to the metal right behind the motor. That way the rod will rotate, hit the block and try and push it rearward and compress it.
#350
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Join Date: May 2008
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Glad I saw this. The pesky dealer was going to charge me $300 just for the new motor. Looks like my goofy fingers will have a job to do this weekend. Thanks for the tip on the light fix... dood!
#353
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THANKS Mustang5.Ohater for posting this guide!!!
I'm a 120% rookie when it comes to car repairs. This was the first time I have ever done any car work and lets just say that as of now... my headlights are perfect. I feel like break dancing! If a shmoe like me can handle this type of repair with my goofy hands and one good eye, then anyone can. The $300 I saved doing this myself is going towards the new tires I'm getting. Manly tears have been shed... dood!
Last edited by Yeah Dood 120%; 05-11-2008 at 09:20 PM.
#355
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Rosenberg,TX
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more KUDO's for the temp fix! I had been running aroung with both "eyes" open for better than 6 month (1. I'm lazy and hadn't ordered the brass gears 2. I work for uncle sugar and money for the gears is tight much less new motors, espicially with gas prices now) I just pulled the 2 15a fuses in the engine bay for the headlight motors while the lights were on and they stayed up
anyway, I just wanted to post up another sucess story and a warning .. I used a hammer and punch to "fix" the loose motor body it was talking about and bending the little tabs down. on the 4th tab I guess I got a little over zelous but it punches right through the PLASTIC of the upper gear area . I don't think I have to worry about that side loosening up again dropped a spot of clear titanuim silicon on the hole left by the punch and works like a champ. My baby can "sleep" at night now
next problems to tackle:
power antenna grinding, no all the way up or down (pulled power connector from it in up position too)
monsoon radio display going nuts and unable to read most of the time ... clears up sometimes though. (Fixed this once by resoldering the connection to the main board inside the head unit. it gets cold solder joints there and erounous signals to the microchip freaks it out. time to fix again I guess)
rattleing noise in drivers side door with the window down when closing the door. windows works good (up and down) just bangs pretty loud when shutting with the window down even just a little bit.
OH yea ... she smokes like George Burns under heavy throttle still runs great but fouls plugs every 20K or so. installed the AMW catch can (very nice piece of work) pressure check and leak down test checked out good (within +/-10 of each other all cylinders) but still a smoker
anyway, I just wanted to post up another sucess story and a warning .. I used a hammer and punch to "fix" the loose motor body it was talking about and bending the little tabs down. on the 4th tab I guess I got a little over zelous but it punches right through the PLASTIC of the upper gear area . I don't think I have to worry about that side loosening up again dropped a spot of clear titanuim silicon on the hole left by the punch and works like a champ. My baby can "sleep" at night now
next problems to tackle:
power antenna grinding, no all the way up or down (pulled power connector from it in up position too)
monsoon radio display going nuts and unable to read most of the time ... clears up sometimes though. (Fixed this once by resoldering the connection to the main board inside the head unit. it gets cold solder joints there and erounous signals to the microchip freaks it out. time to fix again I guess)
rattleing noise in drivers side door with the window down when closing the door. windows works good (up and down) just bangs pretty loud when shutting with the window down even just a little bit.
OH yea ... she smokes like George Burns under heavy throttle still runs great but fouls plugs every 20K or so. installed the AMW catch can (very nice piece of work) pressure check and leak down test checked out good (within +/-10 of each other all cylinders) but still a smoker
#357
Hey Mustang5.Ohater, I know in the very first post you mentioned that there were 2 fixes for the noise coming out of the gear box in the headlamp. 1st, was the "TEMP" fix and the 2nd was the brass gears. I have the brass gears but dont want to install until I know for sure that I need them. What I want to try is the "TEMP" fix before all. This question might sound stupid but, How do you do the "TEMP" fix? What are the instructions? I tried but no luck.
#360
Well, today I tried to perform the "TEMP" fix on my headlight. I followed directions and still having the same probelm. It use to be that my left head light would make a grinding noise when it would close the head lamps, when I would activate my alarm or deactivate my alarm. Now, I get the grinding noise when it opens. I dont get the grinding noise when I activate/deactivate my alarm anymore. I also found out when the head light opens and starts making the grinding noise, reason for the grinding noise is that it kinda looks like it gets stuck and needs a little push and that stops the grinding noise. Is there anything else I could try? Maybe instead of a 180 degree turn, I would need a 220 degree turn. (This is for a 2002 Trans am.) Normally when you rotate the shaft, would it be in a clockwise motion or counter clockwise?
Thank You,
Ray
Thank You,
Ray