Firebird Headlights--ALL COMMENTS/QUESTIONS REGARDING HEADLIGHTS GO IN HERE
#1321
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vikingramair, thanks for the help but I got it. It was something to do with the prongs from the headlight not conducting electricity. After I plugged it in like 7 times it finally came on and has worked since.
That connector that you're talking about is corroded, though. I had to bypass it for my turn signal last year, and sometimes I have to wiggle it for my headlights as well.
That connector that you're talking about is corroded, though. I had to bypass it for my turn signal last year, and sometimes I have to wiggle it for my headlights as well.
#1322
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HELP!! okay my Passenger side headlight motor went out this weekend i went out and replaced the motor with a refurbished one for $63 at orileys my friend had the same problem and replaced his like a year ago so I knew what I was doing. I Got the motor in and everything BUT the problem is now that when I turn on my lights my driver side goes up like normal but the passenger stays down BUT!!!!! when I turn off my lights the Driver side goes down like normal and the PASSENGER Side goes UP!!! WTF!! I literally spent 4 hours trying to figure this out last night we even compared to my friends passenger side trans am and the arms move the same the wires are the same and everything please help! Pontiac Firebird 2001 Alternating Headlights
#1324
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the lights only wire in one way, they are pretty much impossible to screw up. I have tried all combinations of unplugging and plugging, manually bringing them up and down, and the one still moves up and down out of sync, they are driving me nuts, i have also tried a second a different refurbished motor and it is doing the same thing.
#1325
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Hmm i know I've read of someone having this exact problem before. Keep searching and if you haven't updated saying you found it by the time i get home I'll see what i can find.
Keep on it, though. I just finished sorting through a bunch of issues mine had after it sat for a year and now that she's working fine again i love her all over again
Keep on it, though. I just finished sorting through a bunch of issues mine had after it sat for a year and now that she's working fine again i love her all over again
#1326
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Thanks, I looked at the direction of the spinning motor of the replacement and then hooked back up the original and checked the direction of the spinning motor. The replacement is opposite. I am now convinced that the refurbished motors are bad. I am goin to order a new motor and see if this corrects it. If not, I'm goin to do the brass gear swap on the original motor.
#1327
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Here ya go
the search
Thread with lots of ideas
tri-power
02-06-2006, 07:11 PM
It is possible to have the wires reversed. The current passes in both directions to direct the motor to turn the correct way. The current travels one way to lift the bezel and then travels the opposite way to lower the bezel. The best way to check that the current is travelling the right way is to take a volt meter and test both sides. Test the passengers side first because it's the one on the correct pattern. Then test the other side. If the drivers side polarity is backward, then cut and reconnect the wires accordingly.
baibai
02-08-2006, 02:01 PM
Yep somehow, the wires were reversed. I cut into the ones connecting to the motor and switched them around and it works correctly now. I wish I could've just taken them out of that white connector but they wouldn't budge. Works perfectly now, thanks.
EDIT
An interesting thing that I found while searching for this is that some tabs on the motor can get loose.
I would definitely give this a look while you're in there
Check this out
the search
Thread with lots of ideas
tri-power
02-06-2006, 07:11 PM
It is possible to have the wires reversed. The current passes in both directions to direct the motor to turn the correct way. The current travels one way to lift the bezel and then travels the opposite way to lower the bezel. The best way to check that the current is travelling the right way is to take a volt meter and test both sides. Test the passengers side first because it's the one on the correct pattern. Then test the other side. If the drivers side polarity is backward, then cut and reconnect the wires accordingly.
baibai
02-08-2006, 02:01 PM
Yep somehow, the wires were reversed. I cut into the ones connecting to the motor and switched them around and it works correctly now. I wish I could've just taken them out of that white connector but they wouldn't budge. Works perfectly now, thanks.
EDIT
An interesting thing that I found while searching for this is that some tabs on the motor can get loose.
I would definitely give this a look while you're in there
Check this out
#1330
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Ok I have a 99 firebird and the passenger headlight motor stop working, so I bought a new motor replaced it and the headlight started working again however, the lights would go up opposite (one up, one down) so took the motor back to auto zone and got a new one. Now the light doesn't go up and the bright bulb doesn't work. Any ideas what to do next?
#1331
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Check the connector behind the turn signal housing with (iirc) six wires going through it. Mine was extremely corroded, the ground and power for the high beam should go through there. Wiggling it might make it work as well.
As far as the light not going up, i'd assume the connector that you plugged the motor into is the problem. Does it make any noise at all?
Also, for the one going up when the other goes down, check a few posts before yours.
Good luck with it!
As far as the light not going up, i'd assume the connector that you plugged the motor into is the problem. Does it make any noise at all?
Also, for the one going up when the other goes down, check a few posts before yours.
Good luck with it!
#1332
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little help please so i don't have to read 67 pages. kit on first page is not a good link anymore.
done temp fix at least 4 years ago, finally went to crap so i need either a plastic gear, aluminum gear, brass gear, or motor. I'm not sure of the price other than the brass gear seemed to be around 47 bucks. how much is the motor instead? if i go ahead and replace the gear, is there a sticky to babysit me through that process?
any pros or cons to going with aluminum or brass other than price? part numbers?
thanks for help
rob
done temp fix at least 4 years ago, finally went to crap so i need either a plastic gear, aluminum gear, brass gear, or motor. I'm not sure of the price other than the brass gear seemed to be around 47 bucks. how much is the motor instead? if i go ahead and replace the gear, is there a sticky to babysit me through that process?
any pros or cons to going with aluminum or brass other than price? part numbers?
thanks for help
rob
#1333
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front page of this sticky needs a major make over.
Dorman 42400 are plastic ones cost about 11 dollars can get them at napa
Rodney Dickman has the brass and aluminum for about 40 to 50 dollars. his name with no space dot com will get you there.
motors are between 3 and 4 hundred dollars apparently.
seem somewhere bfranker also at one time was selling but didn't check that out.
good luck and please update 1st page of this sticky
Dorman 42400 are plastic ones cost about 11 dollars can get them at napa
Rodney Dickman has the brass and aluminum for about 40 to 50 dollars. his name with no space dot com will get you there.
motors are between 3 and 4 hundred dollars apparently.
seem somewhere bfranker also at one time was selling but didn't check that out.
good luck and please update 1st page of this sticky
#1334
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over a year ago I tried the brass gear fix, it worked for a while and the housing blew apart after a month and was pretty ragged, decided to make the brass gear a paperweight and replace the entire assy. The entire replacement assy are like $80 at parts geek . com
I don't believe it was a OEM part, sorry this is from memory. Either refurbed or a third party maker but looked new and the dang thing worked perfecto. they make a left and a right. It did have extra wiring plugs that weren't needed, I lengthened wiring and soldered in for easy repair next time.
I don't believe it was a OEM part, sorry this is from memory. Either refurbed or a third party maker but looked new and the dang thing worked perfecto. they make a left and a right. It did have extra wiring plugs that weren't needed, I lengthened wiring and soldered in for easy repair next time.
#1337
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front page of this sticky needs a major make over.
Dorman 42400 are plastic ones cost about 11 dollars can get them at napa
Rodney Dickman has the brass and aluminum for about 40 to 50 dollars. his name with no space dot com will get you there.
motors are between 3 and 4 hundred dollars apparently.
seem somewhere bfranker also at one time was selling but didn't check that out.
good luck and please update 1st page of this sticky
Dorman 42400 are plastic ones cost about 11 dollars can get them at napa
Rodney Dickman has the brass and aluminum for about 40 to 50 dollars. his name with no space dot com will get you there.
motors are between 3 and 4 hundred dollars apparently.
seem somewhere bfranker also at one time was selling but didn't check that out.
good luck and please update 1st page of this sticky
1) Those are crap they'll hold until you replace them with metal ones
2) $300-$400 WTF? You got raped
3) The first link in the sticky takes you to Brents website (just gear). The second link I updated (better kit).
Last edited by Danny2tek; 01-22-2013 at 10:32 PM.
#1338
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so today i got into a fight with my driver side headlight and managed to make it fit with the body better than before .. but the problem is when i close the lights it bounces up just a lil bit which makes it not fit and you could pass your fingers into it. i've tried every single way but i've never succeeded, is there like a motor setting to make it stop at some point's?
i don't think so but wish there was...
any idea's would help, i'm looking for appearance fitment guide here...
i don't think so but wish there was...
any idea's would help, i'm looking for appearance fitment guide here...
#1339
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I'm pretty sure it decides where to stop from the motor encountering restriction. There should be one or two little round pieces of rubber that it runs into when it's closed and you twist them to raise and lower where it shuts. My memory of all of this is pretty foggy, though, but you should be able to find threads on this site that talk about it.
For what it's worth mine did this from my bumper being a little misaligned when i bought mine
For what it's worth mine did this from my bumper being a little misaligned when i bought mine
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