Long tubes vs. shorties
08-10-2009, 12:03 AM
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Long tubes vs. shorties Lets hear it. Is it really worth 1300$ for the long tubes? what are the horsepower gains were talkin with on both shorties and long tubes.
08-10-2009, 02:49 PM
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That being said...LT's will allow your engine to breathe more, etc. If you get a cam lets say with shorties, you'll just be choking your engine, etc. The only reason to get shorties honestly is if you live in Cali lol...trust me from someone who had them and then went to LT's. If modding even a little is in your future, you NEED LT's.
08-10-2009, 08:36 PM
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If you would have been looking like a week ago there was a set of KOOKS LT's right here in this section for $550.
And speaking from experience going from shorties to LT's, There is a pretty noticable difference in seat-of-the-pants power. You can get Coated Pacesetters and Mids from Maryland Speed for $507 shipped. Regardless don't spend over $600. You can find LTs if you look. Ebay is an ok place to look, but the vendors here will usually beat those prices. Especially Maryland Speed.
And speaking from experience going from shorties to LT's, There is a pretty noticable difference in seat-of-the-pants power. You can get Coated Pacesetters and Mids from Maryland Speed for $507 shipped. Regardless don't spend over $600. You can find LTs if you look. Ebay is an ok place to look, but the vendors here will usually beat those prices. Especially Maryland Speed.
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08-11-2009, 09:28 PM
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08-13-2009, 08:53 PM
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my car with JBA shorties and JBA catted mids put down 443/417 (H/C/I) and scared the hell out of me on low end but seemed to run out of steam at the high end (were i don't normally drive). at the beginning of the year i put on some pacesetter l/t with uncatted mids, ported t/b and had it retuned. never got it back to the dyno, just had it street tuned.
right now, i wish i had the shorties back on because i have to get up into the rpm band before it comes alive. totally opposite of where it was. it wasn't retuned by the same person so that could have been an issue too. but still...
also fyi, i recently blew #7 piston. no boost, no juice. just all motor.
right now, i wish i had the shorties back on because i have to get up into the rpm band before it comes alive. totally opposite of where it was. it wasn't retuned by the same person so that could have been an issue too. but still...
also fyi, i recently blew #7 piston. no boost, no juice. just all motor.
08-17-2009, 01:28 PM
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my car with JBA shorties and JBA catted mids put down 443/417 (H/C/I) and scared the hell out of me on low end but seemed to run out of steam at the high end (were i don't normally drive). at the beginning of the year i put on some pacesetter l/t with uncatted mids, ported t/b and had it retuned. never got it back to the dyno, just had it street tuned.
right now, i wish i had the shorties back on because i have to get up into the rpm band before it comes alive. totally opposite of where it was. it wasn't retuned by the same person so that could have been an issue too. but still...
also fyi, i recently blew #7 piston. no boost, no juice. just all motor.
right now, i wish i had the shorties back on because i have to get up into the rpm band before it comes alive. totally opposite of where it was. it wasn't retuned by the same person so that could have been an issue too. but still...
also fyi, i recently blew #7 piston. no boost, no juice. just all motor.
08-17-2009, 01:44 PM
#13
I just put Pacesetter long tubes and catless mids on my car. Made a huge difference.
I also didn't even get the ceramic coating. I bought a pair of Fbody headers back in the day that were just painted. The paint held up for 3 years, then while doing some other mods i decided to go ahead and get them ceramic coated... THEN they started rusting. A good paint, if you cure it per the instructions, will hold up just fine.
I also didn't even get the ceramic coating. I bought a pair of Fbody headers back in the day that were just painted. The paint held up for 3 years, then while doing some other mods i decided to go ahead and get them ceramic coated... THEN they started rusting. A good paint, if you cure it per the instructions, will hold up just fine.
08-17-2009, 02:10 PM
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the difference in exhaust lengths is kind of the same thing as speaker design. it's a difference in the frequency of pressure waves. the exhaust pressure wave travels down AND up the pipes. the length (and diameter) determines at what frequency the scavenging most takes effect. LTs get peak torque lower and more torque below that point than shorties. the poster that blew #7 most likely had a improper/lean tune. that's the one that goes. good read here
08-17-2009, 04:23 PM
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+1 for go to ls1gto I got my Kooks 1 3/4" and catless mids freshly coated with a borla exhaust for $1100 shipped. Some people need the money and get rid of parts for cheap.
08-18-2009, 02:56 PM
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Don't waste your money on anything other than pacesetters.
Get them jet hot coated and be done with it.
I'm around 20k miles deep into mine, no rust, no problems. The collector worked perfectly and I have no clue why someone would have a problem with the way it connects to the midpipes...
Get them jet hot coated and be done with it.
I'm around 20k miles deep into mine, no rust, no problems. The collector worked perfectly and I have no clue why someone would have a problem with the way it connects to the midpipes...
08-19-2009, 08:31 PM
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what are your goals/mod's and how much HP do you want to make? these are some of the questions you need to decide on first, if you only want to make 400 then go shorties but if you want to make over that then go long tubes. long tubes work better on the higher HP cars with more mod's.
