My 1st track day
01-16-2009, 10:26 AM
#1
My 1st track day Couple of questions.
My car is 02 SS 35th LE turbo
I have Hawk HPS pads and cross drilled slotted rotors.
I was going to change my fluid with DOT 3, but now considering higher temp fluid.
Some say for my 1st track day, just go with bleeding or replacing with DOT 3 or 4 if I've had the fluid in the car for more than 18mos.
1. Should I replace with higher temp Motul or similiar?
2. Replace with DOT 3 or 4?
The sessions will last about 20 minutes and there will be 3 to 4 sessions.
Input welcome...Thanks
My car is 02 SS 35th LE turbo
I have Hawk HPS pads and cross drilled slotted rotors.
I was going to change my fluid with DOT 3, but now considering higher temp fluid.
Some say for my 1st track day, just go with bleeding or replacing with DOT 3 or 4 if I've had the fluid in the car for more than 18mos.
1. Should I replace with higher temp Motul or similiar?
2. Replace with DOT 3 or 4?
The sessions will last about 20 minutes and there will be 3 to 4 sessions.
Input welcome...Thanks
01-16-2009, 12:17 PM
#2
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I would go w/the Motul.Did you do stainless line's and get rid of the rubber ?You will get brake fad w/ rubber from the fluid heating them up.Are you going to PBIR ? I will try it when i get my 2010 SS M6 and recover a little better from my bike accident.
01-16-2009, 01:27 PM
#4
So, you are getting 2010 CAMARO SS!!! NOICE!!!!
I am trying to get my funds together for the convertable which is supposedly due out a year after the coupe release.
Yes, I will going to PBIR.
Thanks for the heads up. I have a pint of DOT 4 and quart of DOT 3. I will swap out the fluid with DOT 3 and use as much of the DOT 4 I have. Thanks again.
01-18-2009, 07:28 AM
#6
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Are HPS's good for HPDEs? I heat them up to the point they burn off my dust boots in 5 laps on a 1.8 mile course. I assumed they were not the ideal choice for repeated laps, more for autocross/street.
Please correct me if I am wrong.
Please correct me if I am wrong.
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01-18-2009, 08:47 AM
#8
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HPS might be alright on a track, depending on your driving style and type of track. i have ducts on my TA, and overheated a brand new seat of C5 HPS in one track day. for your first time, theyll be alright. but dont be surprised if you lose some braking power by the end of the day, and will need new pads. either get a set of SOLID rotors and HP plus for track days, swapping them each time, or go the cheaper route and get plain jane pads and rotors, and toss them after each HPDE/track day.
fresh fluid is fine. DOT4 wont hurt and can be done without worrying. dont bother with motul unless youre racing alot.....real racing, not just a track day. fresh DOT4 your first time, with proper bleeding/topping off each other time is all youll need. if you get more into to, look into something like ATE super blue/red fluid. higher temps, lasts longer, etc.
to sum up:
brembo blanks/HP+ pads OR cheap blanks/cheap pads (disposable)
fresh DOT4 fluid, bleeding before each other track day
typical saftey check: hoses, belts, empty interior, etc
01-18-2009, 06:37 PM
#10
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slots are also for looks, though safer then drilled. slotted rotors came with my C5 kit, so thats the only reason im using them for now. soon enough ill get brembo blanks for track, and keep the slots for street.
depending on the track youre going to, youll probably end up overheated the HPS. dont be surprised if youll have to replace them. if youre going to autozone for rotors, id suggest getting any regular pad to go with the cheap blanks, then toss them after the track day. its alot cheaper to burn through $30 duralast pads then $90+ HPS.
HPS is a fantastic street pad, and hold up well to an autox. but just fall short on a track after anything more then a few laps.
depending on the track youre going to, youll probably end up overheated the HPS. dont be surprised if youll have to replace them. if youre going to autozone for rotors, id suggest getting any regular pad to go with the cheap blanks, then toss them after the track day. its alot cheaper to burn through $30 duralast pads then $90+ HPS.
HPS is a fantastic street pad, and hold up well to an autox. but just fall short on a track after anything more then a few laps.
01-19-2009, 08:05 AM
#11
I can agree that drilled rotors are mainly for looks but slotted rotors are used by a large majority of race teams and work really well. The problem is most people buy cheap rotors and they fail, then everyone thinks the design is flawed cause some crappy cheap parts failed.
slots are also for looks, though safer then drilled. slotted rotors came with my C5 kit, so thats the only reason im using them for now. soon enough ill get brembo blanks for track, and keep the slots for street.
depending on the track youre going to, youll probably end up overheated the HPS. dont be surprised if youll have to replace them. if youre going to autozone for rotors, id suggest getting any regular pad to go with the cheap blanks, then toss them after the track day. its alot cheaper to burn through $30 duralast pads then $90+ HPS.
HPS is a fantastic street pad, and hold up well to an autox. but just fall short on a track after anything more then a few laps.
depending on the track youre going to, youll probably end up overheated the HPS. dont be surprised if youll have to replace them. if youre going to autozone for rotors, id suggest getting any regular pad to go with the cheap blanks, then toss them after the track day. its alot cheaper to burn through $30 duralast pads then $90+ HPS.
HPS is a fantastic street pad, and hold up well to an autox. but just fall short on a track after anything more then a few laps.
01-19-2009, 08:46 AM
#12
Remember guys ... this is his FIRST track day.
As an instructor for several DE and driving schools, outfitting the car with performance brakes is a recipe for disaster. First thing that needs to be drilled is car control and car management.
A student needs to feel what threshold braking and ABS feels like and they also need to feel what brake fade feels like.
They need to feel the car slide around and they need to hear the tires screaming as they over-drive them.
It's all about building a solid foundation so when performance upgrades are installed, the driver can be better prepared to know when something is wrong.
Carbotech XP-10s and Hoosier R6s can mask a lot of driver errors and car feedback to an inexperienced driver.
My $0.02 ...
As an instructor for several DE and driving schools, outfitting the car with performance brakes is a recipe for disaster. First thing that needs to be drilled is car control and car management.
A student needs to feel what threshold braking and ABS feels like and they also need to feel what brake fade feels like.
They need to feel the car slide around and they need to hear the tires screaming as they over-drive them.
It's all about building a solid foundation so when performance upgrades are installed, the driver can be better prepared to know when something is wrong.
Carbotech XP-10s and Hoosier R6s can mask a lot of driver errors and car feedback to an inexperienced driver.
My $0.02 ...
01-19-2009, 01:23 PM
#13
Remember guys ... this is his FIRST track day.
As an instructor for several DE and driving schools, outfitting the car with performance brakes is a recipe for disaster. First thing that needs to be drilled is car control and car management.
A student needs to feel what threshold braking and ABS feels like and they also need to feel what brake fade feels like.
They need to feel the car slide around and they need to hear the tires screaming as they over-drive them.
It's all about building a solid foundation so when performance upgrades are installed, the driver can be better prepared to know when something is wrong.
Carbotech XP-10s and Hoosier R6s can mask a lot of driver errors and car feedback to an inexperienced driver.
My $0.02 ...
As an instructor for several DE and driving schools, outfitting the car with performance brakes is a recipe for disaster. First thing that needs to be drilled is car control and car management.
A student needs to feel what threshold braking and ABS feels like and they also need to feel what brake fade feels like.
They need to feel the car slide around and they need to hear the tires screaming as they over-drive them.
It's all about building a solid foundation so when performance upgrades are installed, the driver can be better prepared to know when something is wrong.
Carbotech XP-10s and Hoosier R6s can mask a lot of driver errors and car feedback to an inexperienced driver.
My $0.02 ...
01-27-2009, 01:45 PM
#16
Let me start by saying my car is a lot heavier than you F-Body guys, probabaly right around 4000lbs with gas and driver.
I had HPS's on my car my first HPDE, along with superblue fluid. The brakes were fading something fierce. My tires (which were nothing special, GSD3's I think), were WAY outperforming my pads. I couldn't even get into ABS. I purchased (at track prices, OUCH) some HP+'s halfway through, and it was a tremendous imporvement. I could get into ABS if I wanted, and could modulate so much better. I ran these until I switched to Hoosiers a few years later, when I upgraded to some Carbotech XP12's.
The OP might consider purchasing a set of HP+'s now, as he will need them later if he continues in HPDE. That way if he's having braking issues, he can swap at the track, and not be frustrated.
My $0.02,
Chris
I had HPS's on my car my first HPDE, along with superblue fluid. The brakes were fading something fierce. My tires (which were nothing special, GSD3's I think), were WAY outperforming my pads. I couldn't even get into ABS. I purchased (at track prices, OUCH) some HP+'s halfway through, and it was a tremendous imporvement. I could get into ABS if I wanted, and could modulate so much better. I ran these until I switched to Hoosiers a few years later, when I upgraded to some Carbotech XP12's.
The OP might consider purchasing a set of HP+'s now, as he will need them later if he continues in HPDE. That way if he's having braking issues, he can swap at the track, and not be frustrated.
My $0.02,
Chris
02-03-2009, 10:09 PM
#19
No offense intended, but after 1 track day, there is no way you can even have a clue as to what you want.
In stock trim, the F-Car is a LOT of car. Maintain it and just drive it.
When you come back with corner weights, tire temps and pressures, a seat with restraints that give you honest feedback in your butt and when you can feel the difference in a tire that has a 1lb change in pressure, then, let's discuss suspension mods.
Here is some road race action from this weekend ...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NE-ILKGNH7k
In stock trim, the F-Car is a LOT of car. Maintain it and just drive it.
When you come back with corner weights, tire temps and pressures, a seat with restraints that give you honest feedback in your butt and when you can feel the difference in a tire that has a 1lb change in pressure, then, let's discuss suspension mods.
Here is some road race action from this weekend ...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NE-ILKGNH7k
02-05-2009, 10:02 AM
#20
I did the Strano springs, sway bars, and Konis for my TA track upgrade. What an awesome difference, in looks and performance. Pads will definitely be required soon. Also, you might want to repl your clutch fluid with one of the higher temp fluids you will be using for your brakes.