kukri

iTrader: (9)

First time at the track since the built motor I noticed oil pressures drop at idle or deceleration to past 30. I've even seen my oil pressure in high teens at idle. I have a digital gauge and run 5W30 Mobil 1 oil. Of course this happens once car has been running a while and temps climb up to 220-230. I asked both Vette guys who have been running the tracks a while, and they as well said they have seen their cars in low 20s or even 19s for oil pressures.

Is this alright or what? Do you guys run thicker oil to fix this? I have no problems getting 30-40 psi at idle when not hot with 5-30. FYI I also run an oil cooler and accusump as well. Accusump doesn't seem to work that well with low pressures, because after the car warms up and I decelerate or keep rpms down and oil drops below 30 psi, it unnecessary dumps oil into the motor. I guess I'll have to run either thicker oil or lower release pressures for the accusump. Just wanted to see what people do with the oil in their track cars, so post up

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

Your oil temps without an oil cooler are easily reaching 280*F+. You need to run 20W-50 while on the road course & then drain it & change the filter after each track day. Don not leave the 20W-50 in the car while daily driving, it will not thin out enough @ DD oil temps.

kukri

iTrader: (9)

I do run an oil cooler, but I guess it still gets very hot.

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

Yes, that's a fact. Unless there is an oil temperature gauge installed, many track day participants don't realize how hot their oil gets during 20 minute sessions of hard driving. It's good that you have an oil cooler. An oil temperature gauge & 20W-50 racing oil on track days will serve you well.

Sabre002

iTrader: (7)

Ya the two vetts saw only about 240-250 oil temps the same day we ran this car.

SIK02SS

iTrader: (11)

Valvoline 20W-50

Heavy85

I'm having the exact same thing with my LS1. Even at idle after coming off the interstate the 35-40 PSI Accusump switch will flicker and it comes on at idle after running on track. So why 20W50? Obviously it's thicker so should create more oil pressure but so what. My original (non-LS) engine would turn on the 5-10 PSI oil pressure idiot light at idle and would run all day long like that. More pressure is not always better. So what facts and data does anyone have to show what the proper viscosity is for an LS motor assuming you have an oil cooler as I and the original poster do so oil temps are not astronomical?

Cameron

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

M1 5w30 is the worst oil you can use. switch to something that will actually protect your motor and youll instantly see more pressure then with M1. M1 is so thin, and breaks down so fast, id rather use a cup of cold **** then put that in my motor. use GC, and youll see a few more pounds of pressure, right out of the box.

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

It is possible to ask a question without including a dramatic, yet incorrect statement. Are you a chick?

Generally, the viscosity you're looking for is 70. The reason for 20W-50 is the that viscocity will remain near 70 @ road course driving oil temps, not because it reaches some magic oil pressure. However, oil pressure can be an indication of an oil viscocity reduction. Daily driving oils are designed to operate near 70 @ 100*C or 212*F. So, it's not a stretch to understand how oil operating temperatures above 250*F result in reducing the viscocity of daily driving oils.

Sabre002

iTrader: (7)

Ya cause thats why every cup car I ever worked on ran M1 right cause its so bad. Also most engine builder I worked with would only ask one question when it came time to stand by there motors "What oil are you running in it?" All they wanted to know is that you had M1 in it and they would stand by it.

Where are you getting your info that it is so bad? You know it always ranks up in the top with Amsoil and Red line right? Dont come in here and rant about what you like with out giveing some facts at least.

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

are you kidding me? you think NASCAR runs off the shelf M1? there have been dozens of tests and results posted on this very site. im not going to do the research for you. patman has posted his own results, and bobistheoilguy.com has even more info on it. where you YOU getting YOUR info that says it ranks up so high? because every review ive read has it ranked BELOW even regular dino oil.

read this and learn. im not going to hold your hand through it.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-l...mobil-1-a.html

kukri

iTrader: (9)

Oil rivalries are always just a bunch of different opinions I think. Most of top of the line oils will work fine IMO, I just know I need to use 15W50 or 20W50 next time.

SIK02SS

iTrader: (11)

Not really. All oils are not the same. Every different brand of 20W50, is not the same. Mobil 1 maybe used to be the **** back in the day, but not so much in recent years. They have made their oils basically shitty. I forgot which ones, but a couple of them when they reach a certain temperature break down and change viscosity to something thinner. I don't know about you, but when I put an oil in my car, I put it in because of the viscosity rating it has and I expect it to maintain that viscosity, not break down into a thinner viscosity when it gets up to a running temperature..

There is a newer Mobil 1 that I think Patman likes though, can't remember what it is though...maybe he will chime in

SIK02SS

iTrader: (11)

But maybe I'm wrong and in the last couple years Mobil 1 stepped it back up...


A lot of the engine builders I know and Nascar West teams I know like the Joe Gibbs fluids

bballr4567

iTrader: (5)

Mobil 1 5W30 Syn. has turned into a 15W20 within 2k hard miles on a LS1. If that doesnt scream breakdown and cheap than I dont know what does.

Use a GOOD purpose engineered oil for racetrack use if you are going to take it to a road course.


Also, saying NASCAR uses Mobil 1 is like saying the car bodies are actually Chevy, Ford, Dodge and Toyota cars you can buy at the dealership.

kukri

iTrader: (9)

Amsoil then? I was considering running that oil. I read a lot of good things about it. Also why would you run 20W50 over 15W50? I've done internet research a while back, but if you don't mind throwing some links in to independent study I'd love to check them out.

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

i autox and track day my TA. i use GC 0w30 with an improved racing oil baffle. i have no oil pressure or breakdown problems.

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

M1 is not what it used to be. When Exxon bought out Mobile they changed the formula so it is no longer a true group IV PAO synthetic. There was even a lawsuit by competiters that they were false advertising it as a true synth. M1 won though....

I can tell you that years ago Bondurant driving school was was losing LS1's in their vettes and GM recommended running 20w-50 and it fixed thier problems. I agree it is not best for a DD though......

1QWIKBIRD

iTrader: (25)

I've run Mobil 1 (5/30 and 10/30), Redline (10/30), Royal Purple (10/30) and currently have a case of Amsoil (0/30) for the next change. None have ever cause a problem with pressure. The 5/30 was just too thin when it came out. After talking to people much more knowledgeable than myself I would avoid M1 for sure. At one point M1 may have been the gold standard, but that time has passed. I think Royal Purple is more marketing hype than substance also and have my own oil analysis to back that up. So I'd say go Redline or Amsoil, but there are plenty of other good oils as well. If you want step up the viscosity 15/50 or 20/50 call a tech line and see what they recommend?

Afterwards get you YOUR oil analyzed, then YOU will have a baseline to work from. Lots of advice gets throw around, but few people seem to actually get the oil analyzed. Do your own analysis and collect your own data. Every engine is different, driving styles, maintenance schedules, driving conditions etc. all have a role in how the oil holds up.

Run an extra quart of oil in the motor for trackdays as well.....helps with starvation.
Get an oil temp gauge on there also, that'll help keep track of operating temps and you'll be able to use that info when going forward with making viscocity changes etc.

Good Luck and have fun.

kukri

iTrader: (9)

You have ran a 5W30, 10W30 and going to run 0W30 all in road racing applications or street applications? You also probably still have a stock analog gauge? The problems with pressure I was talking about earlier are on 20 minute hard road course driving, with 5W30 oil. Pressure never goes below 30 for me on the street.

I was going to run Amsoil anyway, and if I run 15W50, would that configuration of oil/viscosity be fine on the motor on the track (road race)? How about on the street?

Why do some of you guys run 0W30? Sorry for all the questions, I just want to select best viscosity and oil possible for what I'm doing.