slowpoke96z28

iTrader: (2)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...ke-rotors.html

79_T/A

iTrader: (1)

Why the specific need for curved vane rotors? What brakes? Stock f-body, corvette, aftermarket?

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

I had some in the original front rotors I used for tracking my car, and hhad a hard time seeing the return on investment. Considering that "el cheapo" 12.14 inch Wilwood straight vane rotors could be had for 35 bucks each, compared to over a 125 for the spec 37 curved vane rotors. The cheap ones last a day on the track, while the expensive ones last two.

Looking at my current ones, again, I don't see the ROI. This time it is because both the expensive rotors and the cheap ones are straight vane, and the only big difference is weight. They both have the mass where it counts (pad contact surfaces), but the expensive ones are aluminum in the hat area.

slowpoke96z28

iTrader: (2)

2002 trans am, factory calipers with hawk pads. Reason being is for cooling for high performance driving events. Have a choice of Germany or Japan and I want to take my POV. So whether it's the Wangan or the autobahn, i'd like to have a little more faith in my brakes.

Thanx for the replies. Interesting perspective on the roi of either style.

Midnight02

iTrader: (8)

What's your level of road course driving experience? That tends to be a helpful indicator of braking needs.

I've done roughly 15 track day events on stock calipers, blank rotors and an aggressive track pad. Hawk DTC-60 and DTC-70 are great, hold up to the heat very well and I haven't run into trouble with ruining a rotor during an event (I do like to swap them out for fresh ones after).

As for confidence, I didn't have much confidence at all in the stock brake setup at first -- that's because the pads were terrible. High quality DOT 4/5fluids + good pads and I have plenty confidence braking from 145-150 mph going downhill into turn 10a at Road Atlanta.

79_T/A

iTrader: (1)

I think you would be better served by adding cooling ducts. A curved vane rotor won't make much of a difference within the limitations of stock brakes. Good track pads, quality fluid and quality replacement rotors plus cooling ducts will get you a capable and dependable system. Look up Alan Blaine @ blaine fabrication for proper brake cooling ducts.

beach cruiser

iTrader: (1)

I run stock AutoZone rotors, with Hawk "blue" pads. I do have cooling ducts. I have a spare pair I take to the track, and I inspect them after every time out. If I see anything suspect I swap them out. Then I take the suspect ones back under warranty and get my next spare pair. The straight vane rotors are non directional and will work on either side of the car which is also a plus for me.

slowpoke96z28

iTrader: (2)

Those brake cooling ducts don't get in the way of r&r of the outer tierod?

slowpoke96z28

iTrader: (2)

Is that $125 just for the friction ring or for the whole deal?

79_T/A

iTrader: (1)

If they are designed properly like the blainefab ones, you wont have any issues.

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

just the friction ring.

beach cruiser

iTrader: (1)

No interference on the ducts at all