Want to RR need advice
Want to RR need advice I'm really interested in doing some RR, mostly for fun, and see how it goes. I'm curious what I "should" change if anything? I need new rims what are better 17's or 18's? This is a list of everything done so far!
Brakes:
-Baer Eradispeed Rotors
-Hawk HPS Pads
Transmission:
-SPEC Stage 3 Clutch Kit
-SPEC Billet Flywheel
-01 Slave and Master Cylinder
-Pro5.0 shifter
-Lou's Quick Stick
-Skip-Shift Eliminator
Exhaust:
-Borla Adjustable Cat-Back
Suspension:
-Eibach Pro Kit Springs (front & rear)
-Bilstein Shocks (front & rear)
-Hotchkis Strut Tower Brace
-Hotchkis Pan-Hard bar
-Umi Sub Frame Connectors
-Umi Lower Control Arms
Induction:
-MTI Cold-air Induction Air Box
-Holley Power Shot Filter
-Granatelli Ported MAF
-SLP Straight Air Bellow
Ignition:
-Taylor Thundervolts 10.4mm Wires
Thanks in advance
Brakes:
-Baer Eradispeed Rotors
-Hawk HPS Pads
Transmission:
-SPEC Stage 3 Clutch Kit
-SPEC Billet Flywheel
-01 Slave and Master Cylinder
-Pro5.0 shifter
-Lou's Quick Stick
-Skip-Shift Eliminator
Exhaust:
-Borla Adjustable Cat-Back
Suspension:
-Eibach Pro Kit Springs (front & rear)
-Bilstein Shocks (front & rear)
-Hotchkis Strut Tower Brace
-Hotchkis Pan-Hard bar
-Umi Sub Frame Connectors
-Umi Lower Control Arms
Induction:
-MTI Cold-air Induction Air Box
-Holley Power Shot Filter
-Granatelli Ported MAF
-SLP Straight Air Bellow
Ignition:
-Taylor Thundervolts 10.4mm Wires
Thanks in advance
If your looking to road race, as of right now all your car needs are brake pads, good rotros (not eradispeeds), and flush the brake system with new fluid. Pointless to throw parts at the car if you cant drive it as it sits, adding more power with no experience on the road course is just asking for it.
Originally Posted by SmokeShow99SS
what brakes? Is the suspensions set up is ok?
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Originally Posted by SmokeShow99SS
mostly for fun, and see how it goes.
I'm curious what I "should" change if anything?
Brakes:
-Baer Eradispeed Rotors
-Hawk HPS Pads
Thanks in advance
I'm curious what I "should" change if anything?
Brakes:
-Baer Eradispeed Rotors
-Hawk HPS Pads
Thanks in advance
Carbotech XP10s are a very good road racing pad. But are not good for the street.
Originally Posted by SmokeShow99SS
I need new rims what are better 17's or 18's?
Originally Posted by SmokeShow99SS
Transmission:
-SPEC Stage 3 Clutch Kit
-SPEC Billet Flywheel
-01 Slave and Master Cylinder
-Pro5.0 shifter
-Lou's Quick Stick
-Skip-Shift Eliminator
-SPEC Stage 3 Clutch Kit
-SPEC Billet Flywheel
-01 Slave and Master Cylinder
-Pro5.0 shifter
-Lou's Quick Stick
-Skip-Shift Eliminator
Originally Posted by SmokeShow99SS
Suspension:
-Eibach Pro Kit Springs (front & rear)
-Bilstein Shocks (front & rear)
-Hotchkis Strut Tower Brace
-Hotchkis Pan-Hard bar
-Umi Sub Frame Connectors
-Umi Lower Control Arms
-Eibach Pro Kit Springs (front & rear)
-Bilstein Shocks (front & rear)
-Hotchkis Strut Tower Brace
-Hotchkis Pan-Hard bar
-Umi Sub Frame Connectors
-Umi Lower Control Arms
STB is useless weight on the nose of the car
I do like my UMI parts, although I have yet to get any track time ... yet.
Originally Posted by SmokeShow99SS
Induction:
-MTI Cold-air Induction Air Box
-Holley Power Shot Filter
-Granatelli Ported MAF
-SLP Straight Air Bellow
-MTI Cold-air Induction Air Box
-Holley Power Shot Filter
-Granatelli Ported MAF
-SLP Straight Air Bellow
Deciding to go road racing is not something you "decide" ... you commit.
And the way you have modified your car, it will classify you into an extremely competitive group.
The best thing is to hook up with some local HPDE (High Performance Driver's Education) events. Get some seat time and take the driver out of the equation.
If you have never been on a road course, in stock form, your car is a lot better than your are as a driver. It's the simple truth.
You have to remember, when you are on a road course, your mistake can cause a LOT of other cars damage.
Drive smart.
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Verdad Gallardo See most of the stuff on the car was on it when i bought it, so I'm trying to swap it out and I'm not made of money so i want the "right" stuff if there is such a thing. Thanks for all the feed back. I'll finally be in the states come Jul and I'll have to try and see if i really like it. Just the thought make me nervious. Going straight is easy it's those damn curve that make it tricky 
TECH Resident
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 881
Likes: 1
Agree with mitchntx on the brakes, however, after that I would just do the shocks and maybe a second wheels and track tries. They should be short lived front running DOT SCCA racing tires. Something a little longer wearing. Check the reviews on tirerack.
Don't spend your money on the car now. Spend it on the track.
If you have an extra $3500, go to one Skip Barber, Bondurant, or one of the other schools. It may be the best money you spent. It could save you a lot of money on car damage your first couple of times on the track. The skills you learn will earn you a lot more respect when you get out on the track.
Don't spend your money on the car now. Spend it on the track.
If you have an extra $3500, go to one Skip Barber, Bondurant, or one of the other schools. It may be the best money you spent. It could save you a lot of money on car damage your first couple of times on the track. The skills you learn will earn you a lot more respect when you get out on the track.
Get a good alignment (camber plates up front), better brake pads, and the best tires you can afford.
Toyo RA-1's and Michelin Pilot Sport Cup tires are R-compound tires you can drive on the street with (don't get caught in the rain with them). Mine lasted over 5K miles which is pretty good! If you can't afford a set of rims with dedicated road race tires then the above tires are about the next best choice. Bridestone S-03, BFG KD's and a few other tires are good choices as well for a real street radial but won't be as good as an R-compound or true slick.
If this is your first time slowly ramp up your entry/exit speed into corners and follow others ahead of you to figure out the "lines." I would suggest having an instructor go out with you as they can be a great help.
Toyo RA-1's and Michelin Pilot Sport Cup tires are R-compound tires you can drive on the street with (don't get caught in the rain with them). Mine lasted over 5K miles which is pretty good! If you can't afford a set of rims with dedicated road race tires then the above tires are about the next best choice. Bridestone S-03, BFG KD's and a few other tires are good choices as well for a real street radial but won't be as good as an R-compound or true slick.
If this is your first time slowly ramp up your entry/exit speed into corners and follow others ahead of you to figure out the "lines." I would suggest having an instructor go out with you as they can be a great help.
sweet!!! I wife already told she's sending when we get to the states. I have to get some new rims reguardless cause 2 of mine now are bent bad, Damn Guam roads! I'm thinking about getting a used set of ZR-1's for now then getting some 18's when i have the cash, and using the ZR-1's as track tires. I have the BFG KD's now so at least i can still use them. I'm getting stationed in Norcal what good RR school are near there?
Thanks for all the help guys!!!!!
Thanks for all the help guys!!!!!
4th gens don't use camber plates. However, 3rd gens do.
And I will tke exception to the use of R compounds on a car driven by a newb.
Street tires will give the driver several avenues of fedback. They will "skip" acroos the track when it pushes and they will "yell" when pushed ... both WAY before they give up altogether.
R compounds typically don't give a lot of feedback before they lose grip altogether.
And I will tke exception to the use of R compounds on a car driven by a newb.
Street tires will give the driver several avenues of fedback. They will "skip" acroos the track when it pushes and they will "yell" when pushed ... both WAY before they give up altogether.
R compounds typically don't give a lot of feedback before they lose grip altogether.
Originally Posted by mitchntx
4th gens don't use camber plates. However, 3rd gens do.
And I will tke exception to the use of R compounds on a car driven by a newb.
Street tires will give the driver several avenues of fedback. They will "skip" acroos the track when it pushes and they will "yell" when pushed ... both WAY before they give up altogether.
R compounds typically don't give a lot of feedback before they lose grip altogether.
And I will tke exception to the use of R compounds on a car driven by a newb.
Street tires will give the driver several avenues of fedback. They will "skip" acroos the track when it pushes and they will "yell" when pushed ... both WAY before they give up altogether.
R compounds typically don't give a lot of feedback before they lose grip altogether.
If you are going to be stationed in NorCal check out GreenFlag, NASProRacing, SCCA etc. Do some HPDE days (hi perf driver education).
Thunderhill and Infineon (Sears Point) including Laguna Seca will be the main tracks you run at. Thunderhill has a long front straight.... Infineon is pretty technical and then the legendary Laguna Seca course. Even amateur road racing can get pricey quickly. $179 for a single day not including gas, food, lodging, anything you break/wear and tear etc.
Start saving for brakes... you will need them. Maybe you should look at 1LE option brakes.
Thunderhill and Infineon (Sears Point) including Laguna Seca will be the main tracks you run at. Thunderhill has a long front straight.... Infineon is pretty technical and then the legendary Laguna Seca course. Even amateur road racing can get pricey quickly. $179 for a single day not including gas, food, lodging, anything you break/wear and tear etc.
Start saving for brakes... you will need them. Maybe you should look at 1LE option brakes.