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Arkansas (hot & humid), which is why I think I should set it up as a standalone. Any recommendations? You posted a link in the search once on ebay, but the link was dead.
It looks like you posted this one last year - will this work for standalone? Where is best to mount it? I'm assuming no fitment issues.
If you are running stand alone you need zero fittings, use a small pic to undo the lines from the radiator and the rubber lines from the new cooler will push/slide right over those hard lines.
If you are running stand alone you need zero fittings, use a small pic to undo the lines from the radiator and the rubber lines from the new cooler will push/slide right over those hard lines.
Good point - I guess I was going to install the fittings and cap them,since I was bypassing them. I probably need to buy extra hose, but not sure. If I keep the trans cooler on the driver side, maybe I won't need too.
If I use the one that 91parkave suggests, where is a good long-term place to mount it? Could I do it by just removing the driver side headlight?
He would be better to suggest, I have the one you first linked to. Here is my install thread, and I did not go stand alone as I am in cold weather area.
Go standalone and remove the factory lines at the transmission. Use 2x-6AN male Male fittings and 2x -6an pushloc fittings run your 3/8ths lines to the cooler you linked in the second post. Use only fuel injection clamps and and use preferably universal power steering rubber hose available at autozone etc a little more expensive than standard line but has a 450psi and up rating and 10x more durable than regular hose.
For the install the best way is it to remove the bumper. (Not hard to do by yourself at all). I've had mine offbeat least 15times messing with stuff. Or you can remove lower splash shield and go that route.
Go standalone and remove the factory lines at the transmission. Use 2x-6AN male Male fittings and 2x -6an pushloc fittings run your 3/8ths lines to the cooler you linked in the second post. Use only fuel injection clamps and and use preferably universal power steering rubber hose available at autozone etc a little more expensive than standard line but has a 450psi and up rating and 10x more durable than regular hose.
For the install the best way is it to remove the bumper. (Not hard to do by yourself at all). I've had mine offbeat least 15times messing with stuff. Or you can remove lower splash shield and go that route.
That lower splash shield does not come out without removing the bumper first as there are 2 buried mounting tabs, on this I am 100 percent sure. Either go thru the grills and the fog light grill as I did or remove the bumper, and as Parkave said it is not hard to remove. Removing and replacing the lines is just extra work in my opinion, only if they were leaking would I do that.
Go standalone and remove the factory lines at the transmission. Use 2x-6AN male Male fittings and 2x -6an pushloc fittings run your 3/8ths lines to the cooler you linked in the second post. Use only fuel injection clamps and and use preferably universal power steering rubber hose available at autozone etc a little more expensive than standard line but has a 450psi and up rating and 10x more durable than regular hose.
For the install the best way is it to remove the bumper. (Not hard to do by yourself at all). I've had mine offbeat least 15times messing with stuff. Or you can remove lower splash shield and go that route.
Do you have a link where I can get the stainless lines and fittings?
Is this a quality hose? It says it is for transmission coolers.
I don't know what to say, yours didn't have the pins installed then . The middle pin you can yank on straight down and it will unhook, the two side pins no possible way unless it is damaged. Here is another pic I took when I replaced mine. Push pin goes right thru the hole, and its buried by the bumper.
I guess I don't know how you are all doing that, as I said that is buried by the bumper(it can not be seen). Are you prying the bumper away to snake up to get the clips?
The top driver side line going into the radiator is the RETURN/COLD (to the transmission?) line and can be accessed from the top.
The bottom driver side line going in the radiator is the PUSH/HOT (from the transmission?) and can be accessed from the driver side fenderwell.
I will pull each line out, slide the new transmission cooler line (with fuel line clamps) onto those metal ends, and route to the new mounted cooler. How do I need to orient the "top" and "bottom" entry/exit points on the cooler.
In my opinion it should not matter which line goes where, you are just creating a loop. For convenience I would do top to top and bottom to bottom. That cooler is longer , it really probably can only be mounted one way running along the bottom. There is a video of that or a similar cooler being installed(looks the same), just search for it.
I installed the standalone transmission cooler yesterday. Removing the bumper is easy, but tedious. The trans cooler fits long ways across the condenser and it is a VERY tight fit between the radiator support and the condenser. It is sandwiched in between. Pulling the clip out of the lower radiator trans cooler line is tough, with very little room to maneuver. I also did not have to add any trans fluid.
I drove the car to the shop (to fix a fan issue), so I never got it on a long cruise but I noticed that the temperature climbed slowly, as expected. I will know more in a few days how it cools.
The cooler I got, came with everything I needed. I should never have bought the extra hose (Hayden 106), as I had plenty left over.