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I did mine similar to post 20 in this thread, but I used 2 flat pieces instead of the one curved plate. I have an alternator mounted, but no a/c compressor. I did notch both sides so hopefully when the time comes, I can run a low mount compressor. I don't think even with notching you'll be able to use the f-body compressor mount.
Actually, you can use a 4th-gen f-body alternator with the Hooker 1st-gen F-body engine brackets as long as you notch the subframe. This is possible due to the brackets being of a unique proprietary design that deletes the factory frame stands from the mounting of the engine. Typical swap plates will not allow you to do this.
Todd to recap from our PM's, so other people that have this question can get the info as well.
If we do the stroker on the LS, in my case a 408, it would be wise to still use the 302-2 pan but just welding a bump on it as the pics below
Will this still clear the frame?
Maybe the new 302-3 pan can come with this hump already incorporated?
Yes, those photos depict the needed modification well and the pan will fit in the 1st-gen F-body/ 3rd-gen X-body subframe following the process without further mods to the car.
Yes, those photos depict the needed modification well and the pan will fit in the 1st-gen F-body/ 3rd-gen X-body subframe following the process without further mods to the car.
I am curious Toddoky, is that something that may be incorporated into the 302-2 pan in the future? It seems like a small modification to the 302-2 pan that would allow the use of 4" stroke, while still clearing the frame. Any thoughts? I will be in the market for one within the next 6 months, so I would be interested to know.
I am curious Toddoky, is that something that may be incorporated into the 302-2 pan in the future? It seems like a small modification to the 302-2 pan that would allow the use of 4" stroke, while still clearing the frame. Any thoughts? I will be in the market for one within the next 6 months, so I would be interested to know.
It's been discussed within the engineering/product management teams, but I don't have any specific knowledge of it being green-lighted to happen.
Thank you for the update. And for those that may be looking for other engine mount combinations, these mounts are awesome! They just fit, and I mean everything. I tried to save money on my other swaps by using different mounts and this was far and away the easiest mounts I have used.
It took me 5 mins per side to drill the one hole that is required for these mounts, and when I bolted the motor/trans/sub-frame to the car I had clearance everywhere! Firewall, trans tunnel, and ground clearance. I did a quick test fit of the F-body low mount alternator, and I am 99% sure I won't even need to notch the frame. Nice work guys!!
Quick question for those that have done the swap with a 6 speed. What is the length driveshaft that you have used? Is there by chance a stock GM driveshaft from something like an S10 or something that may be the same length that can be picked up at a JY?
It seems that a lot of the photos in this thread are lost. Can someone please post up the clearance between the drag link and the 302-2 oil pan? From multiple angles would be great, and also what pitman arm is on the car. The 5.25" or the 5.8" arm.
Here's what I have from the development file...the photos show the clearance at full turn on both sides. I can't confirm the length of the pitman/idler arms that were on the car unfortunately.
Heads up to anyone using the Holley parts in a factory air car. I just did the swap with an LS1 out of a 2002 Trans Am. There is no way the right side coil packs will fit mounted in the 02 f-body location.
There is also no way to get the driver's side header (1 7/8" full length header) installed following the directions included with the headers.......the directions say to lift the front of the motor with an engine hoist or jack the left side of the engine up with a floor jack......neither method works......we tried!! The passenger side head hits the evap box long before you get enough clearance to install the header. We had to take the steering box out of the car, put the headers in place with just the center bolt so they could swivel, remove the brake line going to the passenger side and put the steering box back in the car.
Heads up to anyone using the Holley parts in a factory air car. I just did the swap with an LS1 out of a 2002 Trans Am. There is no way the right side coil packs will fit mounted in the 02 f-body location.
There is also no way to get the driver's side header (1 7/8" full length header) installed following the directions included with the headers.......the directions say to lift the front of the motor with an engine hoist or jack the left side of the engine up with a floor jack......neither method works......we tried!! The passenger side head hits the evap box long before you get enough clearance to install the header. We had to take the steering box out of the car, put the headers in place with just the center bolt so they could swivel, remove the brake line going to the passenger side and put the steering box back in the car.
Anyone using stock corvette accessories in their swap using this setup?
I have I think c5 accessories and the power steering pump pully is close to the A arms. I did a quick fitment of the pump and It looks like there is maybe 1/8" or less of room from the pulley hitting or rubbing.
If I don't like the fitment, what accessories are most of you guys running besides the truck setup using the hooker ls swap plates?
Anyone using stock corvette accessories in their swap using this setup?
I have I think c5 accessories and the power steering pump pully is close to the A arms. I did a quick fitment of the pump and It looks like there is maybe 1/8" or less of room from the pulley hitting or rubbing.
If I don't like the fitment, what accessories are most of you guys running besides the truck setup using the hooker ls swap plates?
Your easiest/cheapest fix is going to be to swap out the PS pump pulley (i.e. Holley part no. 97-154) for one of smaller diameter. Many users just swap it and go, but if you are going to drive your car aggressively, you should considers using a kit that lowers the pump pressure also.
Not bad for $35 but it says you must use an underdrive pully to keep pump rpms down.
So does truck and fbody accessories fit with no issues ?
The pump manufacturer recommends use of the underdrive pulley, which is why Holley makes the recommendation also. I can tell you that hundreds of guys have swapped the PS pulley out by itself and ran their car without issue. I've never attempted to install the truck accessory drive on a 1st-gen, so I don't know what the result would be. A stock 4th-gen accessory drive set-up won't install without notching the subframe to clear the alternator.
My plan for my accessories is a type of hybrid set-up that I believe will solve both problems of notching the frame and clearing the a-arms. I am running a truck pulley, and spacing out the low mount LS1 fbody alternator 3/4" so they are at the same pulley spacing. I haven't tested it yet as I am waiting for the longer bolts, but my mock up with the shorter bolts shows that it will have clearance everywhere without having to notch the frame.
01-14-2016, 11:02 AM
