dixiebandit69

I've got a friend with a '94 full-size Blazer, 4X4.

He wants so swap in a 5.3 with a mild cam, but he wants to keep his original transmission/ transfer case.

To do this, I figured I would use the Fitzall TCC plug, a '99-'06 trans wiring harness, and a spacer on the crank hub.

While it's open, I'd also do all of the pan-drop upgrades.

Last of all, since he wants to cam it, I thought this would be a good time to upgrade to a higher stall converter. Since factory stall on that truck is something ridiculously low (1,300 rpm), I thought that converter from a 2000 S10 Blazer could work well (2000 rpm) at a low price.

Anything else you guys would recommend?

FTICONVERTERS

iTrader: (3)

Personally I would recommend spending a little extra and going with a billet converter. You'll have a much more reliable converter with more stall options. If budget is a concern the converter you mentioned is likely your best option.

wlink14

Dont bother with that low of a stall. An engine with a cam really needs a stall converter. Youll be much happier with something like a 2800 or 3000 stall.
A friend of mine used a factory "high stall" converter with a 6.0 and bigger truck cam and it is an absolute turd at low rpm.
And the worst thing you can do is get a cheap stall converter, you really get what you pay for. I used a cheap one and it made a ton of heat and eventually killed my trans.

FranksCustomTrans

I think in the early 4l60e shaft style the highest stock stall was the vette converter at 2000 RPM But they are getting hard to come by.
I had someone argue with me about the 1200 to 1400 stall on FB saying it didn't exist was to low to work lol . Actually it is the most common of the converters from that era.

dixiebandit69

Thanks for the input, guys.

Torque converter aside, does the plan for the valve body sound like it will work?

FranksCustomTrans

Yes that plan will work just fine for the VB and keep pcm happy , Actually you do not even need the FITZALL as the converter regulator valve works very differently , Basically it just pressure regulation and is brought on by 2nd clutch oil if I remember correctly . So should work just fine without the fitzall. Just needs the PWM solenoid and right 3-2 to keep PCM happy .

Tranzman

5.7L V-8's usually came with 1200-1400 stall, 5.0L and some 5.7L came with 1650 stall. HP V-8's & Turbo Regal's came with 2025 stall. All S10/Blazer 4.3L had a factory 2025 high stall converter. They work very well with a mild cammed LS. Check your cam's recommended stall range, if they say stock will work go with the 2025 stall. If they say 2500 or better stall go with that.
Custom grind cams, 114 & lower lobe center, big duration, large overlap cams require more than 2500 stalls. That's when HP, torque, gear ratio & vehicle weight are required info for custom built converters.
400hp-500hp is the biggest range for most because all it takes is "bolt on's" to achieve that range of performance. A stock 325HP LS with a mild cam & well tuned with make 450HP and you can add another 100HP by bolting on NOS or a belt driven supercharger.

I uploaded a few pages from the Consolidated Vehicle Converter catalog on the converters in question.

dixiebandit69

Okay guys, here's an update:

1) I talked him into getting a converter. I don't know what he's going to pick yet.

2) I did a line-pressure check on the transmission, and the most it can make is about 170 in "OD/ D". This is with the main electrical connector unplugged.
Obviously, this is not ideal.

Do any of you think that a Sonnax .490 boost valve will fix it?

If not, and the pump is shot, has anyone ever SUCCESSFULLY replaced a pump on one of these transmissions in the vehicle?

I was thinking that I could put pressure on the 2/4 servo, tighten the band, and pull the pump out.

I want some of you smart guys to tell me if this is a stupid idea or not. I really don't want to take this transmission out, but if I have to, I will.

tayto

I would be careful about r&ring the pump with the transmission horizontal. maybe not as big of a deal on a 4L60E but years ago helped a buddy do a rear main on his squarebody. while the transmission was out we put a shift kit in and pulled the pump to do a new seal & bushing. i went to stand up the transmission vertically and my buddy was adamant that was not necessary so I bolted the pump in. Turned out a bunch of clutches fell out of place and the pump pinched them while getting installed. anyway, transmission had to come out and he took it to trans shop for a rebuild. it of course was my fault even though i had wanted to stand the transmission vertically as I had done on previous 700R4 rebuilds.