"MAC"

iTrader: (1)

lol so because i mentioned it like 5 times today i talk about it a lot? notice how you tried to say i talk about it more than you do and I called you out on it and yet you provided NO proof that I talk about it more than you. just because i talked about it today doesn't mean that i talk about it all the time dumbass. keep trying though you may find a straw or two...

SoFla01SSLookinstok

Looked like all the other 1's in the pic. Still sweet!

wooddaniel

iTrader: (28)

Come on Mac, just know when you're outmatched and give it up. It's painful to read sometimes.

flash0080

Is this your dad MAC?

Lawhead

iTrader: (14)

Yeah it does damn small sigs

Not bad for a 6 speed IRS car

"MAC"

iTrader: (1)

you know i never give up lol but you got out? did they med board you?

"MAC"

iTrader: (1)

Good deal?

marc97taws6

iTrader: (6)

Not a terrible price IMO

Very high miles though. Get ready to build that LS1, the 4l60, and the diff. Will add up quick.

sw07gt

iTrader: (10)

There's a dude local to me, supercharged his vette at 100k miles, turned it up from mid 500s to mid 700s at 150k miles. Has 160k miles now. Stock motor, broken two trans, two rear ends and a blower. Lol.

"MAC"

iTrader: (1)

Yea dude said A/C doesn't work not even gonna get it. Everyone is still selling their ls2 Vettes for 25k plus around me. If i can get my hands on a great deal ima jump on it til then search continues

marc97taws6

iTrader: (6)

I would have a hard time spending much more than $22k for an LS2 Vette. Mentality being that you can pick up a clean C5Z that will perform better for cheaper.

"MAC"

iTrader: (1)

Lol thats what I'm thinking i saw a 01 C5Z for 21k before it sold and from what i read in here the ls2 vette isn't better than the C5Z so im thinking if anything the ls2 Vette should be a 18k car not 25k+ but considering its a newer car and a newer generation then 20k to 22k (like you said) would be top dollar

"MAC"

iTrader: (1)

My rotors have a mirror finish on them. The embarrassment noise coming from out side my window as i drove down the road told me to check my breaks. Well my break pads have a lot of life left on them but my rotors look shiny as hell. I was told i could get some sand paper and sand it down a little. I NEVER heard of that ever. So how true is it?

ZNix

iTrader: (1)

Have them turned. Probably pretty cheap. Mine are cheap enough for me to replace every time I do brakes. I have no idea about F-body brakes.

"MAC"

iTrader: (1)

Ok update out side break pad looks good like new















And inside break pad looks like it is gone completely. What can cause this?

"MAC"

iTrader: (1)

This can't be normal wear and tear on the break pads but its been years since ive had to change them

ZNix

iTrader: (1)

Make sure the pins that hold both sides of the caliper together are not seized. The caliper slides on them so both pads press on the rotor when the piston pushes outward.

"MAC"

iTrader: (1)

Ok will do, also i used some break grease this time i never used that stuff before figured it was a waste of money. Am i a fool for not ever using it til now?

ZNix

iTrader: (1)

When I do my brakes, I disassemble everything, except the caliper, and grease it. The only time the caliper comes apart is if its leaking or it is also seized lol. Those pins I was talking about, grease those bitches up. They have seized on me a couple times in different cars. The area where the pad slides, the back of the pad, and those pins should be greased before assembly.

"MAC"

iTrader: (1)

Well good news passenger rear isnt as bad as driver rear break pads. Changed both drove it around my block slammed on breaks at several different speeds as high as 35mph (a big 10mph over the speed limit) and its fixed thank goodness but as always in my neighborhood some fat **** in his garage cried over me doing that. Lol never fails