1badrz28

iTrader: (6)

I need to upgrade to rod end LCA's. Is anyone in the low 9 and high 8's with these? I am sold on Chromoly, but I see a few mfg's offer aluminum. I am not sure I want to go that route. I do drive my car occasionally on the street and since I am not a metalurgist I would like some quality opinions from people who have real world experience with the aluminum LCA's.

If you are runinng aluminum what brand do you have?


Thanks,

Big Bird WS6

iTrader: (9)

ok chromoly tensel strenght is 40,000 and gets weak if heated to much(like from a bad weld)

6061 aluminum is rated at 50,000 tensel strenght, and 2024 aluminum is rated even higher. aluminum is fine. just keep the jam nuts tight.

you alos have the choice of titanium ones.

but can i ask, why change to rod ends? BMR has done alot of r&d, and they have stated before that these is a very little et time difference between rod and poly.

if would buy the new style that 6litereater is selling.

i will send you a pm on the link.

BADD SS

iTrader: (4)

You have no Idea what you are talking about...

4130 N (normalized tubing) has an ultimate tensile strength of about 97,000 PSI.

2024 has an ultimate tensile of about 70,000 psi, and a yield of 50,000 in T3 state,
And 6061-t6 is the lowest, at 45,000 ultimate tensile, 40,000 yield...

Big Bird WS6

iTrader: (9)

badd ss,
i know what i am talking about. this isn't something i have to second guess.

but thanks for your ultimate numbers. i was only giving important numbers. and i still stand buy what i said. aluminum IS strong enough. hell don't believe me. ask LG motorsports.

slow ride 02

I will take that linc please.

BADD SS

iTrader: (4)

I never said it wasnt, but You OBVIOUSLY dont know WTF is up with properties of said metals. I could go on and on, as thats what I do for a living, im a Weldor/Fabricator, Aluminum also does not have the fatigue strength of steel. You claimed it has a higher tensile strength, and it does not, even ASTM A-36 which is a mild steel, has a higher tensile strength then 6061, and some 2024's, yet it's yield is slightly lower, 36,000 psi.

I could go through my trusty little book and dig up all the info I ever need, but there is just no point.

slow ride 02

So what do you think about 1.125 X .219 6061-T6511 LCR's?

Urban Legend

iTrader: (5)

I run the carbon fiber variety.

BADD SS

iTrader: (4)

Well, at least someone did some homework.

1.125 OD tubing, with a .219 wall will have about a .687 Id, the correct size to tap for a 3/4-16 rod end. I think it will be OK... But I still prefer 4130 LCA's, I made mine... I just dont trust aluminum, and since I can make them with the proper technique and equipment, I would rather use 4130.

Will it work for you, probably.

If you want a place to get cheap 3/4-16 taps left and right, wttool.com is your best bet, unless you are buying pre formed, threaded tubes... I believe both taps Cost $21 total...

Just for reference though, most LCa's are 1.250 Diameter, but your wall thickness may not work out as well.

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Hello,

We have noticed aluminum panhard bars flex under load.. Sam Strano did some testing on this as well and came up with the same results. I feel this same behavior would happen with control arms made from aluminum as well. Also the thread durability is a issue in my eyes, threads in aluminum could be prone to tear or more likely too. Now I have never seen this happen so I can't say it will.. but this is just my opinion on the item.

We build our control arms from mild steel or chrome moly tubing. Whether you choose mild steel or chrome moly both items feature 4140 chrome moly threaded ends which are TIG welded in place. This insures thread durability of the item.

I am not saying aluminum won't be ok because it just might be... but we know our items will with stand whatever you can throw at them.

Hope that helps!
Ryan

Big Bird WS6

iTrader: (9)

yeah, welding, fabricating , milling, i do this **** to.

if you start with a piece of metal then tap it with no weld included. then i would say chromoly is great. but if you have to weld it. i (me, big bird) would not trust it. chromoly gets weak if it is welded wrong. and not one person can argue that with me. to much heat makes it britle. i have seen way to many chromoly welded ones break.

i run a hex tube 1 1/8 2024 aluminum. then i gun drill it out to 11/16. then tap 2" both ends. one left one right.

and as Ryan stated above his stuff if pretty good. i dont agree with the aluminum flex. but if it happened then idk. probly using bad type of aluminum.

Big Bird WS6

iTrader: (9)

Slow ride,

he is the link

https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-produ...hard-rods.html

pm me if you have questions

SJM Manufacturing Inc

iTrader: (5)

I still to this day do not understand the amount of discussion in such a basic component. Here's some food for thought for avid readers. Aluminum designs will have limitations in comparison to steel counterparts. It can have a weight advantage.

In order for the aluminum to deflect less, either a larger wall and or diameter is necessary to give similar results to a steel counterpart. Relatively speaking, it's actually a simple calculation to evaluate results. Aluminum if being tapped will have a tendency to show galling at the threads overtime. A high cyclic component can lead to these areas to be of concern.

Comparing many current round tubular steel designs to current round tubular aluminum designs exceed in every area. I'm seeing tube diameters and wall thickness's as time passes all over the place...some overkill, some under designed.

It's not about who has the largest wall thickness or largest diameter. Unfortunately the consumer looses in the end thinking what they have is "better" from description hype. What is most important is what meets the stresses seen retaining lightweight characteristics with a satisfactory factory of safety. Some aftermarket components are very heavy in comparison to stock pieces...not good especially if what's being built is complete overkill and does nothing but make the car less responsive. Stating x-product is stronger or more durable having say a factor of safety of 100 is poor engineering.

The internet brings about many cottage industries. Many if most are not engineers nor have the capabilities to produce a product that meets most criteria...some are just copying other poorly designed products. Some make slight changes without knowing what consequences developed. Buyer beware.

Have a good night everyone.

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

Everyone thinks they are an expert on everything. I think most people mean well and want to help, but alot of people end up dishing out bad advice or misinformation. Which is why now days I take everything with a grain of salt from everyone. Even from some of the smartest users on here.

Big Bird WS6

iTrader: (9)

^ ^ ^ z28bryan, read this thread. look at post number 6


https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...hard-rods.html

i know what i am talking about

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

Big Bird, I never directed that toward you. It's a general idea that I apply to everyone, and I think everyone should consider it a guideline when looking up info on this or any message board.

In any case I'm not convinced, but don't lose sleep over it. It takes a bit to convince me that what I'm looking at legitimate info