redbadss

iTrader: (4)

i'm looking to buy some subframe connectors for the camaro in a few weeks and was wondering what the benefits are of having 3-pt connectors over a 2-pt? and why is chrome moly cost so much more?

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Hello,
The difference between a 3-pt and a 2-pt is just think of a 3-pt like a (roll cage) sturdy wise for underneath your vehicle it gives you a great mounting point for your torque arm and overall eliminates body roll. The 2-pt will give you the same features when it comes to stiffening the chassis. And when it comes to the chrome-moly it cost so much more because the chrome moly material is more expensive to purchase and takes quite a bit more time to weld. The chrome moly versions require all TIG welding which increases the production time, the weight savings is 4lbs. But when it comes down to it what matters is......What do you plan on doing with your vehicle? Is it going to see a lot of track time?....or is it a daily driver? And how do you want it to perform in the long run? If you have any other question feel free to ask and I will be more than glad to help.
Thanks
Brad

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

No ninja edit for you...

The strength from chromoly comes from the material that goes into the production of the molten steel. Chromoly is steel with chromium and molybdenum (among other things) in the mixture. You dont just put mild steel in an oven and out comes chromoly.

Chromoly is stronger than normal steel, weight for weight. But the reason chromoly parts tend to be lighter because you can use thinner wall material and have the same strength as mild steel.



Also about the 2 and 3 point debate, if youre drag racing the car we have many low 8 second cars with our 2 point SFCs and they have no complaints......

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Jay-bird.... I edited my answer BEFORE you posted... maybe read my edited response before you post. I worded my answer wrong and corrected myself before you posted.

Next time pay closer attention

Brad

On a side note... Chrome Moly material is designed to be heat treated and this is what I meant. Never once did I say you put mild steel in a oven and out comes Chrome Moly.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

Yeah but not before I quoted it. Hence the ninja edit comment.

So then moly cages in cars get put in big ovens and treated as well? Get real.

To the OP sorry about the clutter in the thread, just trying to keep the information correct.

Big Bird WS6

iTrader: (9)

if you want good sub frame connecters get UMI 3 point. i have had spohn slp bmr hotkis and they all sucked compared to UMI. love them and wont put anything else on a car.

and ryan, got the upper and lower arms yesterday, bad ***. again. bad ***.

umi has some great **** out there. i will post pics later.

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Jay, Brad never said cages were heat treated? Where is the world did you get that from?

Brad is correct, 4140 and 4130 materials are designed to be heat treated... he didn't say they had to be or they are. The make up of chrome moly material is that of a heat treatable item, when heat treated you increase the tensile and yield strength. We do heat treat our adjusters we use which are machined from 4140 material... this is where Brad got confused and caught himself. We also use heat treated chrome moly rod ends in our products. We do not heat treat our products but if the applications required it they could be heat treated.

If you want to discuss material grades any further just let me know. Thank you

Ryan

Big Bird WS6- Glad you liked them

bgblockelcamino

iTrader: (9)

just installed a set of customer supplied UMI connectors for a third gen. very nice and well thought out design. would def buy them again

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Thank you very much!
Glad you are happy with the quality and performance of our products.
Thanks
Brad

redbadss

iTrader: (4)

thanks for all the info guys, i try to learn as much as i can about something before i buy it and put it on the car

DevilDougWS6

iTrader: (8)

are there any other good things the SFCs can do besides reduce body roll? i notice i am getting creases in my rear fenders, i assume from getting on it?

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

Although some may disagree, the wrinkles are most likely from not having the subframe connectors. If you think about the concept, you have two frames, called subframes. They are less expensive to manufacture than a fully framed vehicle, such as a truck. But there is a flex point between these two subframes, which is the body. If you connect them together with the subframe connectors it will lessen the flex, and thus the wrinkles.
My car has the connectors, and even with 400+ rwhp has no wrinkles.

DevilDougWS6

iTrader: (8)

that makes sense. but what other benefits are there from tightening the chassis? is there going to be less squeeks and rattles from the interior?

Elliott's94Z

iTrader: (12)

UMI 3-points. Can't go wrong with anything UMI.

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

That is possible. If you buy the concept of connecting the subframes, which I do, then you have just tightened up the entire chassis. If your car was already as loose as Suzy Holdem Open at the class dance, then you may only lessen the effect.

JD_AMG

SFC's do not reduce body roll, that's the job of the swaybars and springs.
Do a search, even if the dimples are from flex, SFC's couldn't do anything about it because they don't brace the chassis that far back. There are just as many people with SFC's that have dimples after installing the SFC's, than there is people without SFC's and no dimples.

If you are looking to get rid of the interior noises and the crashing feeling on bumps you need to fix the cause first: the stock shocks. The rears have too much compression dampening causing the jarring and choppy ride in the first place, while the front's don't have have enough rebound causing the disconnected, loose/floaty feeling at speed. Combined this is commonly misinterpreted as "chassis flex" because when you are accelerating or launching the front feels like its "flexing" compared to the rear when in reality its the front is just floating while the rear is overly stiff.
Now getting OEM replacement or over the counter shocks at autozone are not going to do any good, you need quality shocks with good valving to get the job done. My car is lowered and has much larger swaybars than stock yet no interior noises to speak of because the shocks are doing their job and not letting the vibrations get to the chassis in the first place.

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

This is subjective at best. No one, including myself, can provide objective evidence since it would require off the line vehicles.

I knew we would get here. Stock shocks, no flexing, no dimples, 400+ hp. And the OP did not report any "jarring and choppy ride", or "disconnected, loose/floaty feeling at speed". Although I have only had my car up to 150 mph, perhaps it floats at more speed?
Please note, shocks may be part of the solution. But they are not an end all, do all solution. Merely a part.