My Torque Arm Relocation Bracket is Warping the Sheetmetal
#1
My Torque Arm Relocation Bracket is Warping the Sheetmetal
I have the umi torque arm with the relocation bracket and dsloop. Where it mounts on the left side is warping the sheet metal that it bolts to. What can I do to keep this from getting any worse?
Last edited by Datzneat; 05-30-2009 at 04:28 PM.
#2
It looks to me like the nuts you're using as spacers are focusing the load on too small of an area and bending the sheetmetal. I would remove the nuts and either run with the TA bracket flush to the sheetmetal or make spacer plates to spread out the load as the design is intended. You might want to try and have the metal pulled back out and boxed as well. Good luck,
Larry
Larry
#3
you could possibly un bolt that an slide maybe 1x3 or what ever size fits box tube in there with some tapped holes with long enough bolt to also hold in there if no welder is aval. just a suggestion
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#9
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but the REAL problem is that if that bracket hits the exhaust when installed properly, then you have a larger problem, and instead of fixing the problem properly, you cheaped-out and just threw some stuff together to "create" clearance....and this is the end result.
so you either need to fix the problem with the way the exhaust is hanging (or whatever other problem is causing it to hit the bracket when it is properly installed), or you need to create some better spacers that spread the load over a larger surface area so that it prevents the buckling from occurring.
#10
I didn't install it. I'm going through the car fixing everything that a shop did. Which included filling my 9" to the very top with fluid. I could reroute my exhaust but I think it'll still be an issue because of the size. Maybe new motor mounts would bring it all up a bit? But then the long tubes will hit...
Last edited by Datzneat; 05-31-2009 at 11:33 AM.
#11
FormerVendor
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Hello,
Like mentioned the nuts installed and being used as a spacer are causing the issues. With the nuts there it is not allowing the load to be spread evenly and it is focusing all the pressure where the nuts are. You need a flat spacer or also look into a different y-pipe if that is an option.
Hope that helps,
Ryan
Like mentioned the nuts installed and being used as a spacer are causing the issues. With the nuts there it is not allowing the load to be spread evenly and it is focusing all the pressure where the nuts are. You need a flat spacer or also look into a different y-pipe if that is an option.
Hope that helps,
Ryan
#12
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I didn't install it. I'm going through the car fixing everything that a shop did. Which included filling my 9" to the very top with fluid. I could reroute my exhaust but I think it'll still be an issue because of the size. Maybe new motor mounts would bring it all up a bit? But then the long tubes will hit...
#13
I didn't install it. I'm going through the car fixing everything that a shop did. Which included filling my 9" to the very top with fluid. I could reroute my exhaust but I think it'll still be an issue because of the size. Maybe new motor mounts would bring it all up a bit? But then the long tubes will hit...
Shops like this make me want to puke sometimes about the way they do work and then charge top rates.
I would try to find a salvage yard that sells scrap alumimum and have them cut you two plates the thickness and width needed. I live in an aircraft city so scrap aluminum is cheap.
Or fix your exhaust.
Or go back to a clam-shell type torque arm that mounts to the frame like the one that Yank sells. That's what I did - less noise than the Spohn tunnel mount and works great. I gained clearance too after removing the Spohn.
http://www.converter.cc/crossmembers/
#14
what you need to do is just get some aluminum the thickness of the nuts you used and the width of the sheet metal bracket and drill a hole in it. that way it will dispurse the force out evenly.
#15
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Damn Jay, is that why your hub was leaking at Invasion? they filled it to full? I'm sure thats suppose to mount flush. They just did a shitty cheap *** spacer job to clear the DS or Exhaust. You just need to create a spacer the sam length of the mount and as thick as the two nuts and drill a couple holes though it to match up. Since the sheet meatal has been compromised I'd go a little longer if you can to distrbute the load.