stock01ws6

I have a 01 ws6 that has been making the clunk noise for about a year after I installed the floor mount torque arm. Over the last year I have been tring to dial the sus. in. After a year I think I got it. NO CLUNK NOISE AT ALL. I think alot of people are not looking at the front part of the torque arm mount were it pivoits. For a long time I have been just playing with the pinion angle thinking that was it, and the car never really hooked up any better on the launch. So I just let it be for sometime. One day I noticed that the rear end was not center in the car right and I start to fix that. It took me about 2 weeks of playing with the control arm lenght and torque arm angle and now that the rear end is centered I noticed that the torque arm pivoit point at the crossmember has finally changed. It use to be to forward at about a 10 degrees andgle and now it is at the 0 degrees strait up. Now the car hooks up better than it has ever has. Before it would break the tire loose from a 1st gear from a roll all the way to 3rd with 295/35/18's. Now it will not spin the tires unless I launch it at about 3 grand. By the way did I say NO CLUNK NOISE AT ALL.

black01_WS6

iTrader: (13)

I have mine centered and it still clunks. Has done it for 2+ years. I have just gotten used to it. When the th-400 goes in next week I will be trying to fix this problem, as my wife hates it. haha

stock01ws6

Is the rearend centered in the back? Make sure the rear is centered then check the piviot point at the crossmember. When that is good check the pinion angle. Then recheck to see if everything is still centered.

MikeG

iTrader: (33)

What torque arm and crossmember do you have? I have a BMR adj tq arm and a UMI relocation crossmember and have the annoying clunk also.

metalmechanic

have you ckd bolts on LCA,s,

shaun

i had a problem like this with my car.
i have a edelbrock aj ta, relo brackets,non aj lca's,bmr phb
so i had my lca's set on the lowest hole and they where on before i installed the t/a
and the car just kept axle hoping and spining even with dr's so i went to put them inthe middle hole and when i took the drivers side lca blots out it lokked and sounded like some thing let loose like it was in a bind.
so after that the car hooks good now so i guess my rear was geting binded up.

kkslds

iTrader: (59)

This is the first thread ive checked since i installed everything and I guess I dont feel so bad about my clunk I have. I just installed tunnel mount Adj. tq arm, adj. lca, adj. panhard rod. I haven't had a chance to set pinion angle yet. Mine only clunks if I get on the brakes and then get back in it. btw everything is umi. Not tryin to hijack but does this sound like what you had going on? Also all the bushings are noisy. Will that eventually go away? I greased everything and tightened all them with the weight of the car on them. Thanks

red_ryderSS

iTrader: (1)

Got any pics under the car of the front part of the ta. I have a bmr adj ta wih bmr reki bracket and I'm pretty annoyed with this clunking.

SantaCruz163

iTrader: (6)

I have the same setup and I get that clunk too from time to time when putting it in gear.

LSGunZ28

iTrader: (8)

LIst specifics on your suspension...

Like what brand, TA.. and what size TA.. etc..

99huggerorangeZ

iTrader: (2)

u joints??

stock01ws6

I have all Sponh parts upper arms have poly bushings. lower arms adj. with joints, short torque arm that mounts to the body plus has all joints, reloc brakets bmr, poly adj panhard, lower control arms are adj. poly joint combo.

Most of the noise is from binding, and the rest is usally driveline noise, and gear noise. The other noises are from just changing to a more stiffer bushing of joint that is solid.
Are cars do have a problem picking up noise from the rest of the car with a aftermarket torque arm.

pjb

iTrader: (2)

after installing LCA relocation brackets and Adjustable PHB, I had a clunk. I put ramps under all 4 wheels, loosened LCA bolts, PHB bolts and SFC bolts. Bounced the car several times, and retightened everything. No more squeaks, rattles or clunks.

SantaCruz163

iTrader: (6)

I won't rule out u-joints but I doubt it because I never had noises with the stock setup. It doesn't do it all the time either. I'm going to go through everything again when I put the rest of my suspension on.

triggerjerk

Mine has been clunking for about 5 years.
I have the rod ended spohn adjustable torque arm.
I've thought about putting a poly bushing on the front
but maybe that won't cure the clunk?

98hardtopSS

i have the clunk too. i have all UMI stuff, adj tunnel mount ta...it clunks and i cannot figure out what is clunking. since putting the umi ta in i havent even come close to cutting 60 foots as good as on the stock torque arm. as we speak my car is over the pit so i can put the stock one back on and see if it make a difference. my pinion now leaks as well on a 30k mile car which it did not do before. pinion angle has been anywhere from 0 to -2 everything set with the weight on the suspension. anybody have any insight?

stock01ws6

From what I have seen first hand and what people are saying here, sounds like that somehow the suspenion is binding up. That is were the clunk is coming form. Try and loosen the suspenion parts up and retighen them up. But make sure the rear end is centered under the car first and the pinion angel is set first.

stock01ws6

By the way my car has full suspenion (see post #12) and now on nitto 305\35\18 dr's the car hooks hard. I need to get more seat time to pull good 60's. Car makes 430rwhp and hooked at 4000 and boged on last run at the track. Next time I am going to try it 5000-6000 rpm clutch pumps.

mkn8632

so as a recap on how to get rid of this clunk: check to see if the rear end is located in the center?

Is that really the only way to slove this issue? or do people just live with this issue?