How would a Strange 12 Bolt Affect Handling?
#1
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How would a Strange 12 Bolt Affect Handling?
Current the car has Koni 4/4's, strano springs, Strano Hollow bars, and a watts link + stock 10 bolt. The car is a dd and occasional road coarse/auto x and drag strip. I'm thinking about getting the strange 12 bolt with a Truetrac if its available and 3.90 gears. My question is how would this impact the car's handling?
P.S. Mods if this is in the wrong section feel free to move it. I posted it here since this section is more handling focused.
P.S. Mods if this is in the wrong section feel free to move it. I posted it here since this section is more handling focused.
#2
12 bolts are heavier and arent available with the better road race diffs, like the T2R. unless your rear is blown, i wouldnt replace it. if you want to do something with it, strengthen the rear, ie: CM axles, weld tubes, TA girdle with high perf. fluid, etc, and get a T2R.
#3
I have a 12-bolt with a true-trac and I will tell you that it is going to be a little to agressive (in my opinion) for a serious road racer. It has a tendency to spin/hop the inside rear wheel on a turn.
I would bet there are more options out there for a 9" as far as a good road race differential.
I would bet there are more options out there for a 9" as far as a good road race differential.
#4
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12 bolts are heavier and arent available with the better road race diffs, like the T2R. unless your rear is blown, i wouldnt replace it. if you want to do something with it, strengthen the rear, ie: CM axles, weld tubes, TA girdle with high perf. fluid, etc, and get a T2R.
#5
a built 10 bolt will hold up to strip launches better then stock. dont make a habit of it, and dont do anything stupid like 5K dumps on slicks. it depends on how serious and competitive you want to be with autoxing. track days dont matter as much, since theres no time involved. if you start time trails, then thats different.
road racing is more fun and addictive anyway. do it enough and you wont care about drag racing.
road racing is more fun and addictive anyway. do it enough and you wont care about drag racing.
#6
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can't have the best of both worlds I always just hear bad things about our stock 10bolts. some people get away with 309435049 launches stock and others grenade it on like the 2nd launch. I would just get a 9" and call it a day. 12bolts are biggg and don't help autox
#7
Are 9"s any better for autox than a 12 bolt?
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#8
Are you trying to say that a 9" is small by comparison?
#11
In general, they usually are, but there are some fabricated housings that look to be a little lighter, plus you could go with an aluminum center section instead of nodular iron, etc to get the weight down to probably under that of a 12-bolt.
The choices for differentials in 12-bolts is pretty limited for corner carving applications - that is really the only drawback. My car is pretty much 100% street car (with maybe a handful of 1/4 mile drag strip passes), so it is fine for me and my style of driving. The car is set up to handle well (thanks to Sam Strano), and it gets the job done quite nicely, but then again, I don't compete in anything even remotely similar to auto-x or road racing.
The choices for differentials in 12-bolts is pretty limited for corner carving applications - that is really the only drawback. My car is pretty much 100% street car (with maybe a handful of 1/4 mile drag strip passes), so it is fine for me and my style of driving. The car is set up to handle well (thanks to Sam Strano), and it gets the job done quite nicely, but then again, I don't compete in anything even remotely similar to auto-x or road racing.
#13
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I've broken at least TWO sets of gears on the road course. I chipped another gear, but can't remember when/where that actually happened (may or may not have been AT the track).
I'm getting tired of fixing the 10-bolt, but it's easier to throw a couple hundred at a time, vs. a couple thousand .
What ISN'T offered for a 12-bolt that IS available for 9"??
Are there not Eaton clutch pack diffs available?? (surely there must be?!?!) A clutch pack diff will work just fine on the road course . No need for a T2R. I'm still getting away with an Auburn.
I'm sure you could get used to an extra few pounds in the back of the car, if it meant those few pounds would actually keep the car MOBILE!
I'm getting tired of fixing the 10-bolt, but it's easier to throw a couple hundred at a time, vs. a couple thousand .
What ISN'T offered for a 12-bolt that IS available for 9"??
Are there not Eaton clutch pack diffs available?? (surely there must be?!?!) A clutch pack diff will work just fine on the road course . No need for a T2R. I'm still getting away with an Auburn.
I'm sure you could get used to an extra few pounds in the back of the car, if it meant those few pounds would actually keep the car MOBILE!
#14
12 bolts are heavier and arent available with the better road race diffs, like the T2R. unless your rear is blown, i wouldnt replace it. if you want to do something with it, strengthen the rear, ie: CM axles, weld tubes, TA girdle with high perf. fluid, etc, and get a T2R.
#15
In autox it will be more of a handful to deal with on the 3.90 gears. As stated, the 12 bolt will increase unsprung weight. You'd want more shock compression dampening.
I've heard the recent makings of the T2R is pretty weak compared to a few years back and they explode easier.
Still going on my 10 bolt with 4-5 years of launches on crappy surfaces with Nitto 555r drag radials *knock on wood*
I've heard the recent makings of the T2R is pretty weak compared to a few years back and they explode easier.
Still going on my 10 bolt with 4-5 years of launches on crappy surfaces with Nitto 555r drag radials *knock on wood*
#19
I have a similar set up to xrelapse13 and I also am interested in this thread.So I am confused as to what rear end to use.Does that mean that a 9" is the best for his setup?
I want something that will work with my watts link.So beefing up the 10 bolt is a waste of time?
____________________________
2000 t/a ws6 with lots of mods
I want something that will work with my watts link.So beefing up the 10 bolt is a waste of time?
____________________________
2000 t/a ws6 with lots of mods
#20
I'm going to have to say it depends. If the OP is not bringing hardcore tires to the drag strip and only going once in a while, I think he'd be fine with the 10 bolt. I personally wouldn't try to go too high of a gear change, especially not 4.10. For autox, the 10 bolt with stock 3.42's is fine and will weigh less. I've had a zillion launches on so-so surfaces with heavy OE concept 17x11 wheels and 315 nitto drs with my 10 bolt and still going after 4 years *knock on wood*
Again it all depends on how competitive he wants to be in road race/ autox/ drag racing. If just going once in a great while to each of these things, I would just stick with the 10 bolt. If leaning more toward the drag racing side of things and wanted 4.10s or higher, I'd consider a beefier rear end.
I've considered beefing up the 10 bolt at some point if I decide to go to a 3.73 gear and change my limited slip differential. Again still on unprepped surfaces. And EchoMirage is right.. there's tons of options for diffs for the stock 10 bolt.
Again it all depends on how competitive he wants to be in road race/ autox/ drag racing. If just going once in a great while to each of these things, I would just stick with the 10 bolt. If leaning more toward the drag racing side of things and wanted 4.10s or higher, I'd consider a beefier rear end.
I've considered beefing up the 10 bolt at some point if I decide to go to a 3.73 gear and change my limited slip differential. Again still on unprepped surfaces. And EchoMirage is right.. there's tons of options for diffs for the stock 10 bolt.