Brakes getting real hot
#1
Thread Starter
TECH Addict
iTrader: (30)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,153
Likes: 1
From: Monmouth, Illinois
Brakes getting real hot
Well, I went for a spirited drive a little bit ago. Mostly, it was just normal driving, with a little WOT runs right before I got back home. Not really too hard of braking at all. I never went over 85. Well, I pulled my car back into the driveway, and backed it into my spot, and saw some smoke coming from the right front wheelwell. It wasn't much smoke, but still, any smoke worries me. That was the only one smoking, but they were all pretty hot. It was really the first spirited driving that I had done on the new brakes. I just put Rotoworks drilled and slotted rotors with Hawk HPS pads on Thursday. I know that brakes get hot when they're used, but I didn't think they'd get that hot. Is there some kind of coating that is on new brakepads, that could cause a little smoke when they get hot? Or what would my problem probably be?
#2
Did you clean the rotors with the spray cleaner before you installed? I bought some Autozone rotors once that were oily to keep them from rusting. Even greasy hand prints are not good. But all brakes get hot, that is normal. If it is stopping evenly and not making any noise I would probably just drive it
#3
did you clean the rotors with the spray cleaner before you installed? I bought some autozone rotors once that were oily to keep them from rusting. Even greasy hand prints are not good. But all brakes get hot, that is normal. If it is stopping evenly and not making any noise i would probably just drive it
#4
You probably have a dragging caliper or 2. When you put in the new pads and rotors, you had to move the caliper pistons fully back in their bores. Most time there is a bunch of crud (corrosion) in the innermost part of the caliper bore. So now you have sticking calipers. You can either
1. Drive it like it is, eventually overheat your calipers, and warp your nice new rotors
2. Take your calipers apart, replace the seals, and flush the fluid.
3. Replace your calipers, and flush your fluid.
Option 2 will cost you about 30 bucks for the fronts, same for the backs, if you have the time and knowledge.
Option 3 will cost you about 120 bucks for the fronts, same for the backs, and is a part swap.
I would fix them as soon as you can.
1. Drive it like it is, eventually overheat your calipers, and warp your nice new rotors
2. Take your calipers apart, replace the seals, and flush the fluid.
3. Replace your calipers, and flush your fluid.
Option 2 will cost you about 30 bucks for the fronts, same for the backs, if you have the time and knowledge.
Option 3 will cost you about 120 bucks for the fronts, same for the backs, and is a part swap.
I would fix them as soon as you can.
#6
You probably have a dragging caliper or 2. When you put in the new pads and rotors, you had to move the caliper pistons fully back in their bores. Most time there is a bunch of crud (corrosion) in the innermost part of the caliper bore. So now you have sticking calipers. You can either
1. Drive it like it is, eventually overheat your calipers, and warp your nice new rotors
2. Take your calipers apart, replace the seals, and flush the fluid.
3. Replace your calipers, and flush your fluid.
Option 2 will cost you about 30 bucks for the fronts, same for the backs, if you have the time and knowledge.
Option 3 will cost you about 120 bucks for the fronts, same for the backs, and is a part swap.
I would fix them as soon as you can.
1. Drive it like it is, eventually overheat your calipers, and warp your nice new rotors
2. Take your calipers apart, replace the seals, and flush the fluid.
3. Replace your calipers, and flush your fluid.
Option 2 will cost you about 30 bucks for the fronts, same for the backs, if you have the time and knowledge.
Option 3 will cost you about 120 bucks for the fronts, same for the backs, and is a part swap.
I would fix them as soon as you can.
#7
Before you go out and buy some calipers .
Check to see that the caliper is not sticking on the caliper guide pins.
If the weather seals are intact on caliper pistons you should'nt have to worry about contamination on the caliper piston.
Check to see that the caliper is not sticking on the caliper guide pins.
If the weather seals are intact on caliper pistons you should'nt have to worry about contamination on the caliper piston.
Trending Topics
#8
I have rebuilt plenty of calipers which had bore corrosion and intact weather seals. Normal brake fluid (dot 3 and 4) absorbs moisture. How it gets into the system ???. But it does. Thats why prior to tracking cars, everyone flushes the old fluid out. It not, the absorbed moisture has lowered the brake fluid boiling point so much that brake fade becomes a very real danger. If we were all as **** about our brake fluid as we are about our engine oil, we would see a lot less braking system issues.
#10
#11
Thread Starter
TECH Addict
iTrader: (30)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,153
Likes: 1
From: Monmouth, Illinois
It happened again today after I took my buddy on a ride. He thinks I should probably get a new caliper. He works at O'Reillys, so he'll give me a good deal on a remanned one, and we'll throw it on this weekend probably, and see how it goes. I may just go ahead and flush the system, and put all new fluid in too.
#12
Be carefull with the re-manufactured calipers. I bought a set once and both left and right were spread causing poor braking performance and they ruined a new set of Hawk HP+ pads by tapering them.
#13
I wouldn't replace the whole caliper. Just check and make sure the guide pins are working properly.
Also, what do you mean by hot? It's pretty common for brakes to break the 700* area when you'd working them a bit. I think I saw 750* when I broke my tranny at the track and couldn't do a cool down lap.
Also, what do you mean by hot? It's pretty common for brakes to break the 700* area when you'd working them a bit. I think I saw 750* when I broke my tranny at the track and couldn't do a cool down lap.
#14
Thread Starter
TECH Addict
iTrader: (30)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,153
Likes: 1
From: Monmouth, Illinois
My buddy and I took the caliper off today, and lubed up the guide pins real good to see if that'd help. After some WOT runs, and somewhat hard braking, the brakes weren't smoking. So, I think that fixed it. If it starts happening again, they've got a caliper in stock for me at O'Reillys to throw on. I think it should be fine now though.