Those who have experience with both poly and rod ends
#1
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From: Montgomery, AL
Those who have experience with both poly and rod ends
I am having a difficult time picking between all the various combos from UMI. I've got a $200 gift card for Summit and I plan on it going toward getting some UMI stuff. I hope that my Strange S60 will arive tomorrow so I'll be getting that ready to go in. In addition to weld in LCA relocation brackets, I know that I'm going to need an adjustable PHB. I just can't decide which type to go with
At first I filled my wishlist with poly ended stuff, like LCAs and PHB, because I seem to remember folks talking about how harsh rod ends are. But then I started to wonder if I would be missing out on some benefits of rod ended components. After sourcing my GM High Tech archives I found where Dr. Strano prescribes a double-rod-ended UMI on-car adjustable PHB.
So all I'm wondering is "how bad is the ride" with rod-ended accessories?
For my first go round I'll be getting just a PHB, and LCA relocation brackets (and maybe a power steering cooler). That should be about all of my $200 budget.
Oh, I plan on driving the crap out of this car on the street (road trips, groceries, 80 miles per day commute). I think I'm gonna get some Koni 4/3 shocks soon, rock the stock springs with heater hose mod, and work the rest of the suspension as the $ will allow. As for a "goal" I feel confident that this is going to be a "canyon carver" that frequents the drag strip here in Montgomery, AL.
I like a firm ride, but I think a loud/jarring ride would suck. What combo would you go with?
At first I filled my wishlist with poly ended stuff, like LCAs and PHB, because I seem to remember folks talking about how harsh rod ends are. But then I started to wonder if I would be missing out on some benefits of rod ended components. After sourcing my GM High Tech archives I found where Dr. Strano prescribes a double-rod-ended UMI on-car adjustable PHB.
So all I'm wondering is "how bad is the ride" with rod-ended accessories?
For my first go round I'll be getting just a PHB, and LCA relocation brackets (and maybe a power steering cooler). That should be about all of my $200 budget.
Oh, I plan on driving the crap out of this car on the street (road trips, groceries, 80 miles per day commute). I think I'm gonna get some Koni 4/3 shocks soon, rock the stock springs with heater hose mod, and work the rest of the suspension as the $ will allow. As for a "goal" I feel confident that this is going to be a "canyon carver" that frequents the drag strip here in Montgomery, AL.
I like a firm ride, but I think a loud/jarring ride would suck. What combo would you go with?
#2
You'll get little if no noise increase with the rod-ends on the PHB, over one with poly on both ends. Remember you still want some articulation in the PHB, so get either a roto-joint or rod-end on one end the the PHB.
The rear lower control arms are a different story!
The rear lower control arms are a different story!
#3
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From: Montgomery, AL
Good deal. So you're suggesting one poly end and one rod end? Summit doesnt have the roto-joints yet and their sale ends tomorrow. I had the double adjustable chrome moly version in my wish list, but now I'm wondering how much different it would feel than the single adjustable rod-end/poly version. Is it worth $50 more for the CM version?
What is your recommendation for LCAs?
What is your recommendation for LCAs?
#4
First off I don't claim to know a lot, but I will put it this way. I had UMI poly/poly rear control arms. I couldn't tell the difference. I swiched to single adj. chome moly poly/rod also UMI. I like the feel of the poly/rod better. They make a little noise, but where most people think it is anoying I actually like it. I get a much better feel of the road and no wheel hop now. It was bad before. Now I also have the single adj. panhard with poly/rod ends. It was all swiched at the same time. You won't go wrong with UMI no matter what you buy. Every suspention component I have replaced is UMI and their stuff is damn good quality and they are awesome to deal with.
#5
Good deal. So you're suggesting one poly end and one rod end? Summit doesnt have the roto-joints yet and their sale ends tomorrow. I had the double adjustable chrome moly version in my wish list, but now I'm wondering how much different it would feel than the single adjustable rod-end/poly version. Is it worth $50 more for the CM version?
What is your recommendation for LCAs?
What is your recommendation for LCAs?
LCA's......UMI with the roto-joints.
#7
99Bluez28 is right I don't think the extra money is worth the chome moly. I could barely tell the difference in weight. I think red looks good with the black car, I have NBM TA so I got black, but both would look good with black. If you don't want to draw attention to the mods tho I would do black.
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#9
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Well I decided to go with black and I got the same double adjustable PHB that Sam Strano used in his kit. I'll probably wait to see what others say about the roto joint before I order them on some LCAs. I also ordered a shock tower brace in black, and some relocation brackets.
Last edited by KurtRardin; 11-30-2009 at 07:35 AM.
#10
red looks too flashy. i race my car, so i have rod ends on everything. you wont get much noise from a rod ended PHB. LCA make more noise, but theyre not horrendous until the ends totally wear out, and you have to replace them. for most people with regular driving, a poly/rod LCA will do just fine. you wont notice any difference in handling until you start racing, and having a poly end will cut down on some noise later on.
#11
Poly's are quieter than rod/rod. Rod/rod stuff can get a little clanky but if the car is for drag or road racing, that's what I would prefer. I had three sets of LCA's and PHB's in my old Formula, and the poly/rod was still pretty quiet.
Project Shizzler is running all UMI rod/rod stuff out back:
Project Shizzler is running all UMI rod/rod stuff out back:
#12
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From: Montgomery, AL
Yeah I figured black would go better since its a black car, and I don't want any red stuff to distract me from the beautiful S60 that is soon to be shoe-horned into that area.
Thanks for all of the comments everyone. I know this question has been answerd before, just not in a very direct way. I've found it is always best to source the opinion of those who have experienced both (or several) setups because they tend to have more cause/effect based opinions.
I'm going to see how the roto-joint stuff plays out for people before start spending more money on a (so far) street-only car. I'm not even sure that I could pinpoint a certain suspension component that would need adjusting by "feel" alone inside the car. That statement alone reminds me of a phone conversation I had with Sam Strano a long time ago where he said he prefered his stock LCAs with a different bushing and thought that cars with "full" suspension felt too stiff. Regardless of what I end up using the car for I still feel like its time for some Koni 4/3's. I've got 137k miles on stock suspension, to include the DeCarbons, and like I said I'm about to put a S60 with a Detroit Locker in. That combo alone is going to make this thing drive way different than a 10 bolt with a G80 limited slip .
I'll keep everyone posted on my opinion of the PHB, but I doubt very seriously that I'll even notice its there. It makes me laugh a little that I was concerned with the ends of a PHB to begin with. After I thought about it more and more (and after reading that Sam goes with the double rod ended version) I just said screw it, how bad could it possibly be?
Pro Stock John, your car is sweet. One question though: How many times has the mini-tub thing crossed your mind when you were removing your tire rubbing frustration on your fender wells ? You could sell those things as steel drums to some rasta looking dude in the Caribbean and get some tubs for that thing
I should start a new thread on how I am going to have to re-learn how to drive with a locker
Thanks for all of the comments everyone. I know this question has been answerd before, just not in a very direct way. I've found it is always best to source the opinion of those who have experienced both (or several) setups because they tend to have more cause/effect based opinions.
I'm going to see how the roto-joint stuff plays out for people before start spending more money on a (so far) street-only car. I'm not even sure that I could pinpoint a certain suspension component that would need adjusting by "feel" alone inside the car. That statement alone reminds me of a phone conversation I had with Sam Strano a long time ago where he said he prefered his stock LCAs with a different bushing and thought that cars with "full" suspension felt too stiff. Regardless of what I end up using the car for I still feel like its time for some Koni 4/3's. I've got 137k miles on stock suspension, to include the DeCarbons, and like I said I'm about to put a S60 with a Detroit Locker in. That combo alone is going to make this thing drive way different than a 10 bolt with a G80 limited slip .
I'll keep everyone posted on my opinion of the PHB, but I doubt very seriously that I'll even notice its there. It makes me laugh a little that I was concerned with the ends of a PHB to begin with. After I thought about it more and more (and after reading that Sam goes with the double rod ended version) I just said screw it, how bad could it possibly be?
Pro Stock John, your car is sweet. One question though: How many times has the mini-tub thing crossed your mind when you were removing your tire rubbing frustration on your fender wells ? You could sell those things as steel drums to some rasta looking dude in the Caribbean and get some tubs for that thing
I should start a new thread on how I am going to have to re-learn how to drive with a locker
#13
I'll keep everyone posted on my opinion of the PHB, but I doubt very seriously that I'll even notice its there. It makes me laugh a little that I was concerned with the ends of a PHB to begin with. After I thought about it more and more (and after reading that Sam goes with the double rod ended version) I just said screw it, how bad could it possibly be?
#14
I'm honestly not even sure why you care about what ends go on a panhard rod and the LCAs when you are going to be driving a locker in a Dana 60 rear end. I have a feeling that that will affect your handling way more than either of those components will, short of forgetting to bolt one of them in.
#16
A couple posts up.
Yeah I figured black would go better since its a black car, and I don't want any red stuff to distract me from the beautiful S60 that is soon to be shoe-horned into that area.
Thanks for all of the comments everyone. I know this question has been answerd before, just not in a very direct way. I've found it is always best to source the opinion of those who have experienced both (or several) setups because they tend to have more cause/effect based opinions.
I'm going to see how the roto-joint stuff plays out for people before start spending more money on a (so far) street-only car. I'm not even sure that I could pinpoint a certain suspension component that would need adjusting by "feel" alone inside the car. That statement alone reminds me of a phone conversation I had with Sam Strano a long time ago where he said he prefered his stock LCAs with a different bushing and thought that cars with "full" suspension felt too stiff. Regardless of what I end up using the car for I still feel like its time for some Koni 4/3's. I've got 137k miles on stock suspension, to include the DeCarbons, and like I said I'm about to put a S60 with a Detroit Locker in. That combo alone is going to make this thing drive way different than a 10 bolt with a G80 limited slip .
I'll keep everyone posted on my opinion of the PHB, but I doubt very seriously that I'll even notice its there. It makes me laugh a little that I was concerned with the ends of a PHB to begin with. After I thought about it more and more (and after reading that Sam goes with the double rod ended version) I just said screw it, how bad could it possibly be?
Pro Stock John, your car is sweet. One question though: How many times has the mini-tub thing crossed your mind when you were removing your tire rubbing frustration on your fender wells ? You could sell those things as steel drums to some rasta looking dude in the Caribbean and get some tubs for that thing
I should start a new thread on how I am going to have to re-learn how to drive with a locker
Thanks for all of the comments everyone. I know this question has been answerd before, just not in a very direct way. I've found it is always best to source the opinion of those who have experienced both (or several) setups because they tend to have more cause/effect based opinions.
I'm going to see how the roto-joint stuff plays out for people before start spending more money on a (so far) street-only car. I'm not even sure that I could pinpoint a certain suspension component that would need adjusting by "feel" alone inside the car. That statement alone reminds me of a phone conversation I had with Sam Strano a long time ago where he said he prefered his stock LCAs with a different bushing and thought that cars with "full" suspension felt too stiff. Regardless of what I end up using the car for I still feel like its time for some Koni 4/3's. I've got 137k miles on stock suspension, to include the DeCarbons, and like I said I'm about to put a S60 with a Detroit Locker in. That combo alone is going to make this thing drive way different than a 10 bolt with a G80 limited slip .
I'll keep everyone posted on my opinion of the PHB, but I doubt very seriously that I'll even notice its there. It makes me laugh a little that I was concerned with the ends of a PHB to begin with. After I thought about it more and more (and after reading that Sam goes with the double rod ended version) I just said screw it, how bad could it possibly be?
Pro Stock John, your car is sweet. One question though: How many times has the mini-tub thing crossed your mind when you were removing your tire rubbing frustration on your fender wells ? You could sell those things as steel drums to some rasta looking dude in the Caribbean and get some tubs for that thing
I should start a new thread on how I am going to have to re-learn how to drive with a locker
#17
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Oh I'm definitely getting a locker. I'm not too worried about noise though, as I've been putting up with the noise of a broken G80, noisey bearings, and vibrating gears for way too long. This time all the noise assiciated with the rear end will be the sound of it not breaking. I put up with that piece of crap for so long that I swore that when I got a new rear it would be bullet proof, and with all the crap people talked about the tru-trak (even though most of the complaints come from 33 spline and lower) I said that I want strength and reliability first, and I'll learn how to cope with the differences later. While a locker isnt exactly the right choice for handling I feel that its the best choice for delivering traction and holding up to some abusive driving and the HP that turbos lay down.
#18
If you can tolerate the noise of a locker, why wouldn't you just go with all rod-ended components (besides cost)? They offer the best performance, the only cost being excessive road noise as they wear.
#19
if its a DD i would steer clear or rod ends. I put together one once that I built from parts from coleman racing, it had QA1 rod ends, some of the best available, and the noise drove me nuts. The more you drive it, the more noise its going to make.