texas99Z28

Has anyone ever bought front rotors for our cars that last longer than 3-6 months without warping? I'm not hard on my brakes either! Really getting pissed off!

johnpate01

iTrader: (3)

If it keeps happening, are you sure that something else is not wrong? Maybe stuck caliper pins?

I have been using auto parts store (Napa) blanks for 3 years now with no problems.

ULTIMATEORANGESS

iTrader: (4)

anything but stock should last awhile.


theres quite a few upgrade options. check some sponsors.

hsproyaya

iTrader: (4)

brembo blanks?

SS SLP2

iTrader: (8)

on my Y2K SS @ 9 k miles dealer machined front roters, @ 11 k dealer replaced both, @ at 12 k dealer replaced both again, 14 k dealer replaced again, now 11 years/76 k miles still on the last OE repacement and NO problems with brakes after many high speed stops
PS: my car has NEVER had a inpack on it, I do all my off/ons myself
Johnny

HavATampa

iTrader: (49)

x2. Skip the pretty, drilled, slotted, dimpled, smothered and covered rotors for the street. It's an overkill. You'll never see the temperatures all that crap is supposed to help with.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

x2 on checkin the pins

madhatter

Make sure the hub mounting area is clean. Also you make sure you torque the wheels to the proper spec. We install literally 100s of rotors at the shops I've worked at with very few issues, and most are cheap Chinese rotors.

BobDoLe

iTrader: (11)

i like my brembo blanks. i found you get what you pay for when it comes to rotors. they're not too expensive either, but you just won't find a set of 4 for $150.


also - as stated, check for stuck guide pins.

Mike@ZMS

iTrader: (10)

Over-torquing of the lug nuts can warp rotors quickly.

Make sure you torque them to spec in a star pattern. Spec is 100ft.lbs.

Usually "warped" rotors are not actually warped though. Its uneven pad material buildup on the rotor. It is much more common for this kinda warping to happen than the rotor actually warping from excessive heat.

A good place to read up on this stuff would be StopTech's White-Pages. They can be found Here. More to the point, the article I would refer you to would be Here.

Read up and double check everything. Utilizing higher quality components will always bring peace of mind to me as well as making sure everything is proper.

Good luck!

joblo1978

iTrader: (14)

I'll keep my zinc coated drilled and slotted rotors, looks totally awesome and with no warping problems at all. I got mine from a non sponsor.

I liked them so much I replaced my wife's worn out rotors on her G6 with them. Looks badass now!

z28bryan

iTrader: (7)

So whatever we want to call it.. warping or uneven buildup... I think we can all agree that the stock rotors shake after a bit of use.. whatever it is that causes it

meine96ws6

iTrader: (4)

I had a problem with my stop rotors after I purchased my car.. So, I replaced them with;

Powerslot Rotors( no drilled holes to worry about cracking after super hard use)

Hawks Performance Pads

Earls Stainless steel lines..

I love the brakes now.. Night and day difference..

meine96ws6

iTrader: (4)

I had a problem with my stop rotors after I purchased my car.. So, I replaced them with;

Powerslot Rotors( no drilled holes to worry about cracking after super hard use)

Hawks Performance Pads

Earls Stainless steel lines..

I love the brakes now.. Night and day difference..

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

the street is the ONLY place 'safe' to use garbage like drilled rotors. they are never recommended for track use. read the stickies, drilled rotors are for LOOKS and nothing else. they do absolutely nothing to help you stop.

i use brembo blanks for the track. the first set i got was warped from the factory. that being said, you dont have to overheat them to warp.....you can just drop them on the floor and theyll warp. after getting them turned, ive had around 20 track days, seeing temps WAY higher then anything youll ever see on the street; im talking 1000 degrees more then street temps. they have yet to warp.

if any rotor keeps warping, as others have said, its not the rotor. frozen guide pins are probably the problem. even a bad hub could do it. whenever brakes are done, always grease the pins thoroughly, and id suggest to re-grease them once a year, regardless of pad condition.

Mike@ZMS

iTrader: (10)

By grease, I hope you are talking about something that can take the heat like anti-seize or similar.

I have used anti-seize to keep the pins lubricated, with great results.

LS14EVR

iTrader: (3)

Use Grease or even better Sil Glyde, not anti seize, it's not high temp rated. Or high enough. I used to use it till I read the specs. Make sure your sil glyde is rated to high temps as well. Make sure to use a Torque wrench when tightening lug nuts as well.

fleetmgr

I was just looking at anti-seize last night, and the high temp stuff (Copper Kote) is rated to over 2000 degrees. There was some other stuff with a similar rating. I'm thinking that if my brakes were THAT hot, I'd have other things to worry about besides what I used on the pins.

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

i was talking actual brake caliper lube, or grease. i have a tub from a parts store, been using it for years, with absolutely no problems. as i said before, racing produces temps over 1000 degrees higher then anything on the street, and my slide pins are like new after every track day.

whatever the tub i have is, it doesnt specifically say 'high temp' or 'racing application'. but i swap brakes after every event, and check the pins every time. not once have i ever seen anything burn, discolored, or dry. nothing even smells burned.

LS14EVR

iTrader: (3)

Sorry, I was un aware that they make a high temp version.
The standard is only good to something like 450.