Front end rebuild time, what parts?
#1
Front end rebuild time, what parts?
Car is almost at 200k, I destroyed the dust boots on the ball joints and tie rod ends about 5 or 6 years ago when I did my LS1 brake swap. So I'm going to replace upper and lower balljoints and the tie rod ends. What else should I replace while I am in here? What brand? I was looking at the Moog stuff on rockauto. Cheaper anywhere else by any chance?
Another quick question I have is, do any lowering springs work well with Bilstein HDs? I'm sure the answer is none of them, but figure I'll ask anyway.
Another quick question I have is, do any lowering springs work well with Bilstein HDs? I'm sure the answer is none of them, but figure I'll ask anyway.
#3
I thought about the heater hose mod, but that is only for the back right?
So should I replace anything else? Wheel bearings seem fine, mileage is honestly unknown on them as I had swapped LS1 knuckles on, so who knows how many miles were on the donor car, it was an ebay purchase.
So far:
ball joints
tie rod ends
So should I replace anything else? Wheel bearings seem fine, mileage is honestly unknown on them as I had swapped LS1 knuckles on, so who knows how many miles were on the donor car, it was an ebay purchase.
So far:
ball joints
tie rod ends
#6
Thanks! The endlinks were replaced with poly when I put the strano bars on, as for the control arm bushings I have to go look in the shed, I think years ago the shop that was supposed to put the whole energy suspension kit in, probably didn't do those, if I have them laying around I might as well do them! I know there were some left in the box, might be them, if they were done then I guess those are poly in there now and not too old.
How about the actual tie rod? I see they are $50 a side. Are they an OK piece from the factory and I shouldn't worry, or will I see a benefit going to the Moog tie rod?
How about the actual tie rod? I see they are $50 a side. Are they an OK piece from the factory and I shouldn't worry, or will I see a benefit going to the Moog tie rod?
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#8
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
I am just finishing up a full rebuild on Natasha's B4C which has 140K hard miles on it.
We went with the upper/lower A-arm rebuild kit from Energy Suspension as the caster bushings were blown right out. Depending on how these poly-U caster bushings hold up, we may go to a Del-A-Lum insert later on down the road. It was messy as hell burning the old bushings out, which had some dry rot. Next time, I'd just heat the sleeves and press the rubber out.
We also went with upper and lower ball joints, and inner and outer tie rods. All from the MOOG ProblemSolver line. Purchased from RockAuto; find their 5% Discount Code online and save a few bucks that way. The original parts were in serviceable condition and could have stayed on the road a while longer except the DS inner tie rod was bent, the outers were frozen to the inners, and the car had an inner tire wear issue and vibration at 80mk/h (yes, I had the wheels rebalanced).
Lastly, I had the rack and pinion rebuilt because I am really never planning on going back in there again as we'll drive the car into the ground from here on out. I fully intend on aligning it myself too. As I find technicians can only follow instructions and flow charts, and mechanics are only out to satisfy their bottom line. Plus, this way I know it is done the way I want it and I can hold myself accountable for the results.
We are going to aim for something around:
-1* Camber
4.5* Caster
0 Toe
HTH!
We went with the upper/lower A-arm rebuild kit from Energy Suspension as the caster bushings were blown right out. Depending on how these poly-U caster bushings hold up, we may go to a Del-A-Lum insert later on down the road. It was messy as hell burning the old bushings out, which had some dry rot. Next time, I'd just heat the sleeves and press the rubber out.
We also went with upper and lower ball joints, and inner and outer tie rods. All from the MOOG ProblemSolver line. Purchased from RockAuto; find their 5% Discount Code online and save a few bucks that way. The original parts were in serviceable condition and could have stayed on the road a while longer except the DS inner tie rod was bent, the outers were frozen to the inners, and the car had an inner tire wear issue and vibration at 80mk/h (yes, I had the wheels rebalanced).
Lastly, I had the rack and pinion rebuilt because I am really never planning on going back in there again as we'll drive the car into the ground from here on out. I fully intend on aligning it myself too. As I find technicians can only follow instructions and flow charts, and mechanics are only out to satisfy their bottom line. Plus, this way I know it is done the way I want it and I can hold myself accountable for the results.
We are going to aim for something around:
-1* Camber
4.5* Caster
0 Toe
HTH!
#15
I've decided I'm not going to mess with the shocks/springs at this point. I'll just wait til I can afford the Koni/Strano setup.
I'm not sure if that would be true in my case anyway, I put these Bilstein HD's on six years ago if I remember correctly. I wonder if the valving was close then as it is now?
There is a used set of the slp bilstein/springs combo from a 97 SS for sale in the FL section, but I think I'm just going to keep what I have for now, my car still handles great with the strano bars and the stock springs with the HDs, so I'll just have to be patient! Get this front end rebuilt and go hit my first autocross up or something.
I'm not sure if that would be true in my case anyway, I put these Bilstein HD's on six years ago if I remember correctly. I wonder if the valving was close then as it is now?
There is a used set of the slp bilstein/springs combo from a 97 SS for sale in the FL section, but I think I'm just going to keep what I have for now, my car still handles great with the strano bars and the stock springs with the HDs, so I'll just have to be patient! Get this front end rebuilt and go hit my first autocross up or something.
#16
Well didn't bother messing with springs or shocks, still rocking Bilstein HD's with stock springs.
This thing feels so much better now. The outer tie rods were def. whipped as were the balljoints. The passenger side inner wasn't bad at all, but I had it replaced anyway. Driver side inner was getting worn.
Good news was I bought the control arm bushings locally, so I returned them. Seems the shop I paid in CA years ago to install the Hyperflex kit did in fact do their jobs and the control arm bushings were still in excellent shape.
Turns out my passenger side hub is on its way out though, sounds like grinding rocks. Driver side is smooth and quiet though, just going to do the one side.
Can't wait to try this thing out on my favorite twisty roads! MOOGIFIED!
This thing feels so much better now. The outer tie rods were def. whipped as were the balljoints. The passenger side inner wasn't bad at all, but I had it replaced anyway. Driver side inner was getting worn.
Good news was I bought the control arm bushings locally, so I returned them. Seems the shop I paid in CA years ago to install the Hyperflex kit did in fact do their jobs and the control arm bushings were still in excellent shape.
Turns out my passenger side hub is on its way out though, sounds like grinding rocks. Driver side is smooth and quiet though, just going to do the one side.
Can't wait to try this thing out on my favorite twisty roads! MOOGIFIED!