blacksnake

Did the heater hose mod to the rear of my car, which probably moved the rear end adout 3/8 inch out of alignment. No problem, I'll just get an adjustable PHB. Who knew there were an assload of adjustable PHB variations!

This is a weekend car the gets diven hard occasionally. I was thinking of either the poly mounts, or those rotating mounts. What I don't quite understand is the purpose of double adjustable bars vs single adjustable. I will definately be buying from a sponser.

My plan is to:

1. jack the car up by the pumpkin
2. drop it onto some ramps
3. crawl underneath and install the bar
4. adjust it in place till my tires are dead even with the rear quarters(which
is where they were before the bump stop removal, 17x11 wheels)

Am I missing anything?

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

Nope, that should be just about it. I actually backed the car up on ramps to avoid the whole jacking process, and that worked out quite well for me.

For the mounts (bushings or ends I'm assuming you mean), I'd go with the spherical ends over the poly bushings. I have a poly/roto-joint combination and I love it, but if you want maximum suspension articulation you might as well go spherical on both ends (like the roto joint). Upgrading the PHB doesn't really transmit much if any noise/vibration through the body, but if you're concerned at all the combination I have rides almost exactly like stock (actually, the rear seems a little firmer, which I like a lot). I would choose roto joints over the rod-ends as they don't really make any noise at all unless they're worn out.

As far as single vs. double adjustable....I guess I don't quite understand the need for both ends to be adjustable (maybe it's so you have a greater range of adjustment?), but from what I've heard it's more so personal preference. If you don't have to adjust it very far then I would think that singles are all you need.

blacksnake

Thanks for the response. I guess the roto joint seems like the best overall connection to the car and rear end, and I probably don't need a double adjustable bar.

BS

Double adjustable is so that it can be adjusted while installed. The single adjustable must be removed to make adjustments.

I bought the UMI Double Adjustable w/ Roto-Joints from Sam Strano.

Tobias05

iTrader: (1)

^ BS do you work at the mill?

BS

Yep.

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

....no....there is an ON CAR single adjustable as well as an OFF CAR single adjustable, different designs but that's not the difference between the single and double.

BS

This is according to UMI.

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

Ok....here are 3 examples:

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...e7unqv52k12pp0

A single OFF CAR adjustable.

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...e7unqv52k12pp0

A single ON CAR adjustable. Look at the difference between the design of the two, it has the same adjusting mechanism as the double adjustable, while the OFF CAR adjustable has a totally different design.

Taken from the site "the panhard bar does not require removal to adjust."

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...e7unqv52k12pp0

Double adjustable. See how the adjustors look the same between the 2?

Fbodyfan

You might want to read the descriptions of the items you posted a little closer. Both the second and the third items posted are double adjustable. The second one is double adjustable with a single roto joint, the third is double adjustable with roto joints on both ends.

BS

Yep the third sentence states:
"The supplied CNC machined double adjuster features left and right hand threads for quick and easy on car adjustments by simply loosening two jam nuts, the panhard bar does not require removal to adjust."

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...e7unqv52k12pp0

"Single adjustable items need to be unbolted from the vehicle to adjust them.
On car and double adjustable panhard bars can be adjusted while on the car,
this saves a lot of time and makes is much easier. "-Ryan Kirkwood <ryan@umiperformance.com>

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

Ok, it has a single side that is adjustable with a double adjuster....some people hear "single adjustable has to be adjusted off the car" and think that you mean one that doesn't have the adjuster on both sides, while all you have to do is actually read the part description. I know that it's the same "double adjuster" mechanism on the 2nd and 3rd part, that's why I put that in my post....

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

There is no need for articulation on a panhard rod since it only pivots up and down. A properly lubed polyurethane bushing will pivot just as freely as a spherical rod end. Since articulation is not required you can save some money and use less expensive polyurethane bushings that will last longer on the street.

As for the single vs. double adjustable question, it was pretty much answered above but I will explain it with a little more detail for those who are still unfamiliar. To be adjustable on the car it is necessary to have a combination of left hand and right hand threads somewhere on the PHR. This makes it "double adjustable" or "on-car adjustable". It can be designed with a single threaded end and an adjuster or with two threaded ends, either way provides the on-car adjustability. Using only one threaded end does not allow on-car adjustability so when the PHR is adjusted it is necessary to unbolt one end, adjust the PHR then re-install it. In the end the single adjustable PHR is just as functional, it just requires more initial setup time.

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

Not exactly true. There was a thread about this not too long ago, the rear suspension geometry actually does require some articulation - not just up and down movement. The movement of the lower control arms (in an arc) actually do cause the rear side of the panhard rod to move fore and aft while driving. While it's not super important, having at least 1 or both ends articulate will be beneficial.

And, for the record, I am clear now on the "single vs. double adjustable" terminology. I always just figured that single meant it was adjustable on one end....thanks for correcting me people

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

You are correct, the PHR does articulate slightly but the amount is so minimal that it should not be a determining factor in choosing a bushing vs. a rod end (on PHR's anyway). A quick calculation using the suspension arc radius vs. 4" of shock travel gives a figure of .104". This is how far the rear moves front-to-back during 4" of travel. It is a measurable amount but not really enough that a poly bushing can't easily handle without presenting bind.

We sell them in any configuration, rod ends, bushings, and combo's, was just offering a lower cost alternative to the OP...