NDFORSPD

I did a search! Couldn't find much, one guy posted that it was infact possible to remove the e-brake backing plates WITHOUT removing the axles. I have a buddy whos a tech for GM and says that you do indeed have to pull the axles.

My dilemna is that the rear diff cover is Rust welded on and given the nice frigid temps, I don't really want this turning into a suicide mission lol. If it was the summer I would spend the time pulling the axles, changing the rear fluid etc. Does anyone know for sure that you can remove the ebrake backing plate/assy without pulling the axles?

The car is a 00 Camaro V6 with 320k kms and LOTS of rust!, but the brakes are identicle to a V8

ulakovic22

iTrader: (12)

IIRC you have to pull the axles to unbolt the backing plates. Are you swapping rear ends or something and need your backing plates?

NDFORSPD

Das not good!

No i bought the car recently with the emerg brake on both sides being cut off. I pulled the rotors and found out the backing plate is a rusty mess. My only option really is to put on new backing plates from a newer less rusty car. Ill grab some pics in a few minutes with whats left of it! The prev owner took out all of the ebrake inards and then zip tied the cables to the axles. I need to get the ebrake working for certification but dont have a garage i can use as my WS6 doesnt like to be disturbed while sleeping.

ulakovic22

iTrader: (12)

Ahh, yeah. Pull the cover, remove pin and c-clips, take out axles and then 4 bolts on the backing plates that hold them to a flange on the axle tube.

nemss1

yup, really easy to do. just like stated above

NDFORSPD

Fast forward a lil bit and heres where I am at.
I have bought a complete 10 bolt with absolutely everything attached to it. So now the question becomes what is easier to do, swap rears OR pull the axles on both and swap backing plates? I did have major troubles with the amount of rust on the underside of the car. i am kinda having to WD-40 the **** outta of it and let it sit for a day. The cover on the 10 bolt thats on the car also refuses to be removed.

Deviant LS1

iTrader: (4)

If it's the same channel rear, the gears and differential are good then I would just swap rears.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

There's either a gasket or bead of RTV between the differential cover and the differential housing, so while the cover might be stuck in place due to time, I highly doubt that the cover is rusted in place. It's not direct metal to metal contact. As long as you can get the cover bolts out, a sharp rap with a chisel between the cover and housing should dis-lodge it.

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

loosen the cover bolts a couple turns,don't remove them,and the cover can be pryed off. keeping the bolts loose but still attached keeps the cover from flying off. I done a few that seemed like yours and using a big screwdriver and/or chisel between the cover and housing always worked.