getcha 01

iTrader: (4)

I have a 2001 WS6 and have no money to buy stuff right now. The SFC's I have seen pretty cheap around $95-$100, but I just got a mig welder and I'm a welder by trade and really have been searching all over on how to fabricate my own SFC's. I would preffer round style, but box style also works. I also can get chromoly pretty cheap, but if they can be made from regular steel, then I can just powdercoat them with high temp paint so they wont rust. I thought about fabbing LCA's also but that seems more efficient to just buy with the bolts/bushings etc.....any help would be great on the SFC's

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

cheaper to buy em with the cost of materials and fab time

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

True, but there is something to be said about the satisfaction of a DIY project.

3rdgen92maro

iTrader: (20)

I used this build thread to build a set for my formula. Spent 30 bucks on a 10ft stick of 2x2 .120 wall square tube and a few hours.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...cs-budget.html

getcha 01

iTrader: (4)

Thanks guys, thats what im struggling with right now, I know I cant afford $100+ on some weld in SFC's and thats about the cheapest mod I can do at this point that would help me at all. I am a welder and finally bought a MIG and i'm trying to find out what I can do for just $50 in materials. If I could get the steel for $50 or less I would do it but the steel around here is crazy high...$30 for a 2''x3' 3/16'' thick steel strip! Where can you buy steel other than farm and home, home depot etc?...I welded for the railroad and was able to take steel home free most the time if it was small like what I just listed. I also dont know where it gets welded exactly so its not in the way of exhaust,x member etc...

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

You typically won't find steel cheaper than your local supply houses once you add shipping costs into the mix. That being said, 3/16" plate should be much cheaper than what you mentioned if you can find a steel supply house rather than a general hardware retailer. If you do find materials reasonable enough to proceed, the best thing you can do is tie into the control arm mounts in the rear and the subframe up front. Since you are the fabricator, you have the freedom to design them however you wish. For a manufacturer, we are limited sometimes because we have to design around various exhausts and other aftermarket components while you can design around what you actually have on YOUR car. We also have to allow for production variances while you will not. This permits you to tie your tubing into the subframe with larger weld areas, design with tighter clearances, and even connect multiple points if you choose. Happy fabbing!

getcha 01

iTrader: (4)

Thanks alot, I would have though BMR woulda been the last place I would get an idea of where to start on the SFC build lol...Thats what I needed to know, I just had no clue if they worked better being tied into the rear/sides/front of the front subframe or who knows where, it sounds like to me that as long as it joins the 2 subframes together and doesnt interfere with components or have clearance issues then all is good. Thanks again

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

Your bio info says you are in St. Louis ...

http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/

Metal Supermarkets
1324 Ashby Road
Saint Louis, MO 63132
(314) 692-8143


These guys aren't the cheapest place to source material, but they are certainly cheaper than Home Depot.

Ask to sort through their remnants.

I buy a lot of aluminum from them to use for covering holes.

getcha 01

iTrader: (4)

Thanks, I have no idea where to start on finding a company where I can buy very small amounts of metal.

meine96ws6

iTrader: (4)

That's why I stand behind their products and always recommend them. Most other companies would have steered you into buying their product. If you decide to go through with it, you could do a detailed post about it.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

I may sell parts on the forums and provide tech but at heart I am a fabricator and there is just nothing more satisfying than building something yourself. Not everyone has the capability and that is why companies like BMR exist but if you can cut and weld steel and have the desire, have at it. You will be proud of yourself, save yourself some money in the process, and even get your ego stroked afterward when other users give you props for doing it yourself!

getcha 01

iTrader: (4)

You and BMR are good people for sure, this is an old thread but since I started it I have been hired at a fab shop that we build metal scrap hauling trailer for 18 wheelers from bare metal sheets and tubing. I actually havnt got to do any of the things I wanted to to as of chassis mods yet. I am shooting for a tune,SFC's,T/A relocation to a beefy x member and a tunnel brace,LCA's. I installed 4.10's when I got hired 5 months ago and driving 80mi a day and street racing blew my torsen T2 up and bent axles,panhard,LCA's. I built a 98Z28 rear with pro series auburn and 3.42's went back in plus welded the tubes so I can get by till I get a 8.8 build figured out. I can get 1.75 O.D. x .120 round tube for $1.50 a ft where I work and I can cut it,bend it, do whatever needs done really but I still cant find any exact specs on length,where to bend,degrees of bend etc.. I know people do it but I cant even find a set local I can take measurements from! The track is closed so f bodys went into hiding or something lol. I can buy 10 ft of the 1.75" x .120 mild steel for $15, 3ft of 1/4" x 3" plate for mounting brackets for $8 and thats the only cost if I can find good plans. Thanks again for helping back then.