lowering car w/o panhard?
01-22-2011, 11:40 PM
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lowering car w/o panhard? A while ago I got some LG Motorsports lowering springs dirt cheap... I wanting to install them on my car, but have been delaying since I still have my stock panhard bar. Will it hurt my car and/or driveline to run it for lil while lowered without the panhard bar. I know my rear end will be off center, but will it effect my car negatively in performance and/or reliability like that? thanks guys.
01-23-2011, 12:01 AM
#2
It will offset you rearend to the drivers side, and I personally wouldn't take it to the track without getting an adjustable panhard bar set up on your car because it offsets alot of things. Your driveshaft and torque arm will not be centered which will put more stress on things along with your lower control arms. You can get a nice on car adjustable panhard bar with poly bushings from umi for like $100. Better to be safe than sorry man.
01-23-2011, 12:17 AM
#3
I can't tell you whether it's good or bad, but I can tell you that my car has been lowered on Eibach Sportlines since 1997 and I haven't had any problems at all. I will be installing an adjustable panhard bar in a few weeks though since I'll be mini-tubbing along with offset lower control arms.
01-23-2011, 10:00 AM
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At -1" I didn't need to adjust my adjustable, just set it to same-as-stock
on the driveway and things were still dead center. The lower you go the
more you need it. Put the rear springs on and see, they're easy enough
to swap in & out.
on the driveway and things were still dead center. The lower you go the
more you need it. Put the rear springs on and see, they're easy enough
to swap in & out.
01-23-2011, 03:58 PM
#7
25 years ago, I installed a set of lowering springs in my '85 Firebird, and it offset the rear end a bit. However, you couldn't buy adjustable suspension parts back then, like you can today. I drove the car that way for several years without any issues, other than it lookes a little weird.
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01-23-2011, 11:19 PM
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I put the rear springs on and the offset wasn't bad at all. Less then 1/4 inch difference from side to side. now I gotta do the fronts. Any tips to take off the front struts? I took off all nuts bolts connecting the strut in and couldn't easily remove it. So do I just need to man up and pry that SOB out? Or is there any easier way.
01-24-2011, 05:36 PM
#10
I put the rear springs on and the offset wasn't bad at all. Less then 1/4 inch difference from side to side. now I gotta do the fronts. Any tips to take off the front struts? I took off all nuts bolts connecting the strut in and couldn't easily remove it. So do I just need to man up and pry that SOB out? Or is there any easier way.
You have the 4 bolts at the top of the shock/spring assembly, that you access in the engine compartment, then the 2 bolts at the bottom, which secure the ***'y to the lower a-arm. You may need to use a prybar, but be careful of the ABS cable that's routed along the lower a-arm.
You'll probably also have to disconnect the upper arm from the steering knuckle, as it's sitting on the studs of the upper shock mount.
01-24-2011, 07:22 PM
#11
You have the 4 bolts at the top of the shock/spring assembly, that you access in the engine compartment, then the 2 bolts at the bottom, which secure the ***'y to the lower a-arm. You may need to use a prybar, but be careful of the ABS cable that's routed along the lower a-arm.
You'll probably also have to disconnect the upper arm from the steering knuckle, as it's sitting on the studs of the upper shock mount.
You'll probably also have to disconnect the upper arm from the steering knuckle, as it's sitting on the studs of the upper shock mount.
01-24-2011, 07:28 PM
#12
It depends on the size of your rear wheels. If you're running 17x11's then you're going to have rubbing issues.
If you are on stock struts you will probably trash those with the LG springs... They are stiffer and lower versions of the Hyperco F-body springs. Just save up $80 and buy an adjustable panhard used here on Tech, and buy some shocks meant for lowering springs... I say KYB if you're cheap and short-sighted because you'll need them set to max or almost to max to handle the LG springs. Typical Bilsteins won't last at all. Koni's would be the proper choice because they can handle the aggressive rates of the LG springs, but they cost the most money.
I have Hypercoil springs in the back of my car, which is the softer version of the LG springs. They wore out the stock (non-revalved) Bilstein HD's that I had, pretty damn fast. Have KYB AGX's set to 7 - they are faring a little better.
For the fronts, you will need a spring compressor. Use the search button and look for a spring installation guide or how-to.
If you are on stock struts you will probably trash those with the LG springs... They are stiffer and lower versions of the Hyperco F-body springs. Just save up $80 and buy an adjustable panhard used here on Tech, and buy some shocks meant for lowering springs... I say KYB if you're cheap and short-sighted because you'll need them set to max or almost to max to handle the LG springs. Typical Bilsteins won't last at all. Koni's would be the proper choice because they can handle the aggressive rates of the LG springs, but they cost the most money.
I have Hypercoil springs in the back of my car, which is the softer version of the LG springs. They wore out the stock (non-revalved) Bilstein HD's that I had, pretty damn fast. Have KYB AGX's set to 7 - they are faring a little better.
For the fronts, you will need a spring compressor. Use the search button and look for a spring installation guide or how-to.
Last edited by ZexGX; 01-24-2011 at 07:34 PM.
01-25-2011, 12:22 AM
#15
Because your shocks control your springs. When you lower your car, you chang your spring rates, you are also deceasing the amount of travel the shocks can work with causing them to have to work harder to control your springs. If you don't properly match up your springs with your shocks you'll prematurely wear out your shocks. Shocks are a sealed system so dirt and grit shouldn't get inside to begin with.
