help me set up my car fellow drag racers!
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
help me set up my car fellow drag racers!
alright a little back ground info. i started with old mopars and still love them to death. but camaros were getting too cheap to pass up so 1000 for one here 800 for one here i have 6 4th gen f-bodys and a really clean 3rd gen lol
given the one im doing now is a lt1 car all of the chassis changes will be the same on a 99 i just picked up but is in storage until i sell both my lt1/t56 cars.
when i get the ls1 car going i would like to eventually be in the high 9s or low 10s it will be mainly a dragstrip car wil the random weekend cruise to the show or dare i say a street race.
what suspension set ups do you 10 and 9 second guys have? shocks struts springs rear ends etc.
this is what im thinking of doing...
4.10 gears (10 bolt until i break it or have enough money to buy a 12 bolt)
factory disc brakes but with a manual master cylinder conversion?
tubular k member with both upper and lower adjustable control arms
stock power steering rack
bmr rear drag bar and removal of the front sway bar
random technologies adjustable torque arm
torque arm relocation cross member
bmr lower control arms and panhard bar
either weld in subframe connectors, or cut the floor and run some 2x3 front and back for a full frame
what do you guys think is anything not needed or any other tips? pros cons?
what do you guys think about lower control arm relocation brackets or adjustable LCA's and panhard? necesary or no?
i have 28x10.5 slicks kinda curious about a 26inch slick on the lt1 car?
i have a drag launch spring kit is it worth running that or what suggestions do you all have for shocks and springs? i see the comp 3s alot so ill probably go with those would the springs minus the airbag work on a ls1 car?
the lsx will have an automatic in it
i know you all dont want to give away any secrets but any help will be great like i said, mopars with leaf springs is what i know haha
given the one im doing now is a lt1 car all of the chassis changes will be the same on a 99 i just picked up but is in storage until i sell both my lt1/t56 cars.
when i get the ls1 car going i would like to eventually be in the high 9s or low 10s it will be mainly a dragstrip car wil the random weekend cruise to the show or dare i say a street race.
what suspension set ups do you 10 and 9 second guys have? shocks struts springs rear ends etc.
this is what im thinking of doing...
4.10 gears (10 bolt until i break it or have enough money to buy a 12 bolt)
factory disc brakes but with a manual master cylinder conversion?
tubular k member with both upper and lower adjustable control arms
stock power steering rack
bmr rear drag bar and removal of the front sway bar
random technologies adjustable torque arm
torque arm relocation cross member
bmr lower control arms and panhard bar
either weld in subframe connectors, or cut the floor and run some 2x3 front and back for a full frame
what do you guys think is anything not needed or any other tips? pros cons?
what do you guys think about lower control arm relocation brackets or adjustable LCA's and panhard? necesary or no?
i have 28x10.5 slicks kinda curious about a 26inch slick on the lt1 car?
i have a drag launch spring kit is it worth running that or what suggestions do you all have for shocks and springs? i see the comp 3s alot so ill probably go with those would the springs minus the airbag work on a ls1 car?
the lsx will have an automatic in it
i know you all dont want to give away any secrets but any help will be great like i said, mopars with leaf springs is what i know haha
#5
LS1Tech Premium Sponsor
iTrader: (5)
It sounds like you already have a good recipe going, let me just trim some of the fat and save you some money. I wouldn't worry about the springs, we have guys running deep into the 8's on stock rear springs. Also to save you some money, you can skip the upper A-arms if you want to. The aftermarket arms don't save any weight, they are more intended as a more rigid version for handling benefits.
The K-member and lower A-arms will definitely free up some room and drop some weight off the nose. I would keep those on your list and use the money you are saving by not buying upper A-arms or springs and buy a set of QA1 or Strange front coil-overs. Not only will they drop another 10 lbs. off the nose but the valving adjustment will really help you tune your launches. We have a discounted package (FEP004) for the K-member and A-arms that will save $70.
If you have the ability to fabricate and weld, you can't beat a through-the-floor subframe connector. This will be more rigid than any two or three point connector and it will save you some more money too so you can put it where it counts.
As for the Rear anti-rollbar, LCA's, PHR, torque arm, and torque arm relocation crossmember, we have it all and it's already designed to work together. For instance, I am pretty sure that the Random Technology torque arm is made from smaller 1" diameter tubing which will not be compatible with most torque arm relocation crossmembers on the market. Our torque arm is made from 1.25" x .120" tubing and has already been in the 8's so I know it will work in a 10 second car, especially when used with our relocation crossmember. You didn't mention which automatic you will be using but we have crossmembers for PG, TH350, TH400, TH4L60, and TH4L80E.
If you have any questions about any of these items or what direction to go, just give us a ring. We have plenty of knowlegable sales staff on hand to help you make the right choices. We have been drag racing F-bodies for years and supporting the 4th Gen F-Body community since it started...
The K-member and lower A-arms will definitely free up some room and drop some weight off the nose. I would keep those on your list and use the money you are saving by not buying upper A-arms or springs and buy a set of QA1 or Strange front coil-overs. Not only will they drop another 10 lbs. off the nose but the valving adjustment will really help you tune your launches. We have a discounted package (FEP004) for the K-member and A-arms that will save $70.
If you have the ability to fabricate and weld, you can't beat a through-the-floor subframe connector. This will be more rigid than any two or three point connector and it will save you some more money too so you can put it where it counts.
As for the Rear anti-rollbar, LCA's, PHR, torque arm, and torque arm relocation crossmember, we have it all and it's already designed to work together. For instance, I am pretty sure that the Random Technology torque arm is made from smaller 1" diameter tubing which will not be compatible with most torque arm relocation crossmembers on the market. Our torque arm is made from 1.25" x .120" tubing and has already been in the 8's so I know it will work in a 10 second car, especially when used with our relocation crossmember. You didn't mention which automatic you will be using but we have crossmembers for PG, TH350, TH400, TH4L60, and TH4L80E.
If you have any questions about any of these items or what direction to go, just give us a ring. We have plenty of knowlegable sales staff on hand to help you make the right choices. We have been drag racing F-bodies for years and supporting the 4th Gen F-Body community since it started...
alright a little back ground info. i started with old mopars and still love them to death. but camaros were getting too cheap to pass up so 1000 for one here 800 for one here i have 6 4th gen f-bodys and a really clean 3rd gen lol
given the one im doing now is a lt1 car all of the chassis changes will be the same on a 99 i just picked up but is in storage until i sell both my lt1/t56 cars.
when i get the ls1 car going i would like to eventually be in the high 9s or low 10s it will be mainly a dragstrip car wil the random weekend cruise to the show or dare i say a street race.
what suspension set ups do you 10 and 9 second guys have? shocks struts springs rear ends etc.
this is what im thinking of doing...
4.10 gears (10 bolt until i break it or have enough money to buy a 12 bolt)
factory disc brakes but with a manual master cylinder conversion?
tubular k member with both upper and lower adjustable control arms
stock power steering rack
bmr rear drag bar and removal of the front sway bar
random technologies adjustable torque arm
torque arm relocation cross member
bmr lower control arms and panhard bar
either weld in subframe connectors, or cut the floor and run some 2x3 front and back for a full frame
what do you guys think is anything not needed or any other tips? pros cons?
what do you guys think about lower control arm relocation brackets or adjustable LCA's and panhard? necesary or no?
i have 28x10.5 slicks kinda curious about a 26inch slick on the lt1 car?
i have a drag launch spring kit is it worth running that or what suggestions do you all have for shocks and springs? i see the comp 3s alot so ill probably go with those would the springs minus the airbag work on a ls1 car?
the lsx will have an automatic in it
i know you all dont want to give away any secrets but any help will be great like i said, mopars with leaf springs is what i know haha
given the one im doing now is a lt1 car all of the chassis changes will be the same on a 99 i just picked up but is in storage until i sell both my lt1/t56 cars.
when i get the ls1 car going i would like to eventually be in the high 9s or low 10s it will be mainly a dragstrip car wil the random weekend cruise to the show or dare i say a street race.
what suspension set ups do you 10 and 9 second guys have? shocks struts springs rear ends etc.
this is what im thinking of doing...
4.10 gears (10 bolt until i break it or have enough money to buy a 12 bolt)
factory disc brakes but with a manual master cylinder conversion?
tubular k member with both upper and lower adjustable control arms
stock power steering rack
bmr rear drag bar and removal of the front sway bar
random technologies adjustable torque arm
torque arm relocation cross member
bmr lower control arms and panhard bar
either weld in subframe connectors, or cut the floor and run some 2x3 front and back for a full frame
what do you guys think is anything not needed or any other tips? pros cons?
what do you guys think about lower control arm relocation brackets or adjustable LCA's and panhard? necesary or no?
i have 28x10.5 slicks kinda curious about a 26inch slick on the lt1 car?
i have a drag launch spring kit is it worth running that or what suggestions do you all have for shocks and springs? i see the comp 3s alot so ill probably go with those would the springs minus the airbag work on a ls1 car?
the lsx will have an automatic in it
i know you all dont want to give away any secrets but any help will be great like i said, mopars with leaf springs is what i know haha
#6
Teching In
Thread Starter
for the lt1 car has anyone heard how good the eibach launch spring kit is? i got a deal on one and dont know if its worth putting in or not?
and also with a stock ride hieght car is it beneficial to put on lower control arm relocation brackets?
with either one would it be just as good to put poly bushings in both the front upper and lower a-arms and just run those with a tube k member? theres only a couple pounds to be had with the a-arms isnt there?
and also with a stock ride hieght car is it beneficial to put on lower control arm relocation brackets?
with either one would it be just as good to put poly bushings in both the front upper and lower a-arms and just run those with a tube k member? theres only a couple pounds to be had with the a-arms isnt there?
#7
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for the lt1 car has anyone heard how good the eibach launch spring kit is? i got a deal on one and dont know if its worth putting in or not?
and also with a stock ride hieght car is it beneficial to put on lower control arm relocation brackets?
with either one would it be just as good to put poly bushings in both the front upper and lower a-arms and just run those with a tube k member? theres only a couple pounds to be had with the a-arms isnt there?
and also with a stock ride hieght car is it beneficial to put on lower control arm relocation brackets?
with either one would it be just as good to put poly bushings in both the front upper and lower a-arms and just run those with a tube k member? theres only a couple pounds to be had with the a-arms isnt there?
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#8
Teching In
Thread Starter
anyone give you any info on it? otherwise come spring ill put the kit in my 94 firebird and see how it goes i havent had any experience with the stock suspension though so i wont have any comparisons to go off of though except the 93 z28 i ran last year