Choosing the right UMI LCA's
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I'm looking to replace my old LCA's, they are old metco boxed ones that I picked up used years ago and the bushings are shot. I've been reading about UMI LCA's but Im not sure which would be best for me. Car is a weekend only car that see's a good amount of drag strip use, I have never autocrossed it. I have a Moser 12 bolt, Spohn body mounted TA and BMR adjustable PHR. I need an adjustable LCA, I need to move the rear back a bit for the large tires and my driveshaft sits to close to the output shaft. I was looking at this model but I wasnt sure if the roto joint was good for dragstrip use or is it mainly for roadracing? It doesnt mention anything about dragstrip use so I wasnt sure about it.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=393
I see this model talks more about dragstrip use.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=105
I would like the car to handle better on the street too but Im more concerned about better ET's. I like that the rotojoint is rebuildable but wasnt sure if the spherical rod end would be better for the strip. Looking for some feedback on the two.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=393
I see this model talks more about dragstrip use.
http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=105
I would like the car to handle better on the street too but Im more concerned about better ET's. I like that the rotojoint is rebuildable but wasnt sure if the spherical rod end would be better for the strip. Looking for some feedback on the two.
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Hello,
Thanks for looking at the UMI control arms and I will be glad to help you.
The Roto-Joint isn't designed so much for drag racing as it is for handling and applications where suspension articulation is needed. For a mostly drag race set up we recommend the rod ends over our Roto-Joints. The rod ends have a higher strength body to them and less items to wear/break under high power. Now with that being said this will also depend on the track time, if you will be running the times in your signature the Roto-Joint will be just fine and hold up well, we don't recommend it for vehicles in the 10's and faster, at least vehicles with these times running often.
I would recommend either part #2016 or #2013 which has the on car adjustment built in, both use rod ends. The rod ends we use are a high quality Teflon lined self lubricating rod ends... they won't offer the noise that an economy style rod end will but will firm up your ride some. I posted a link to part #2013 below. Please let me know if you have any additional questions.
www.umiperformance.com/2013
Thank you!
Ryan
Thanks for looking at the UMI control arms and I will be glad to help you.
The Roto-Joint isn't designed so much for drag racing as it is for handling and applications where suspension articulation is needed. For a mostly drag race set up we recommend the rod ends over our Roto-Joints. The rod ends have a higher strength body to them and less items to wear/break under high power. Now with that being said this will also depend on the track time, if you will be running the times in your signature the Roto-Joint will be just fine and hold up well, we don't recommend it for vehicles in the 10's and faster, at least vehicles with these times running often.
I would recommend either part #2016 or #2013 which has the on car adjustment built in, both use rod ends. The rod ends we use are a high quality Teflon lined self lubricating rod ends... they won't offer the noise that an economy style rod end will but will firm up your ride some. I posted a link to part #2013 below. Please let me know if you have any additional questions.
www.umiperformance.com/2013
Thank you!
Ryan
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Thanks so much for your feedback. I will go with the rod end style you listed. Just curious, is the #2016 considered better/stronger for drag racing applications then the #2013? From the looks I would think the #2016 would be better, since the bar is longer and less adjustment fittings. Is that the case or are they both equally as strong? I plan to make another 50-75 rwhp in the near future and would like to get into the low 11's or so, so just checking. Thanks
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Thanks so much for your feedback. I will go with the rod end style you listed. Just curious, is the #2016 considered better/stronger for drag racing applications then the #2013? From the looks I would think the #2016 would be better, since the bar is longer and less adjustment fittings. Is that the case or are they both equally as strong? I plan to make another 50-75 rwhp in the near future and would like to get into the low 11's or so, so just checking. Thanks
If I can help anymore please ask. Thank you!
Ryan
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Hey Ryan, I hope your available today. Im installing them this morning, the ES poly bushing end bolts up to the car fine, but I tried to install the rod end to my rear axle and they are 3/8" too wide to fit in the mount. I have a Moser 12 bolt with relocation brackets. It looks like it is the relocation bracket that is the difference, it sits inside the standard mounting point. If I took them off (which I dont want to) the rod end would fit fine in the standard mounting point. My question is, do you sell the aluminum rod ends that are 3/16" narrower on each side (3/8" total) or do you recommend me just cutting them down to fit? I really hate to cut up a brand new part but if you dont have a smaller fitting thats what I'll do. Thanks.
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Both ends of the control arm, poly side and rod end side should measure 2.400" wide, this is equal to the factory control arm width. Most likely the relocation brackets on the rear end are compressed inward from the previous control arms installed. You should be able to spread the relocation brackets out enough to install the rod end side of the control arms. You shouldn't need to cut anything. Let me know how that works out.
I hope that helps,
Ryan
I hope that helps,
Ryan
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That was my first thought when they didnt fit. Thats not the case though. If I measure the stock location that they would mount on the rear, without the relocation brackets, it is just a tad under 2.5" wide. Where I need to mount them on the relocation bracket is only 2" wide. They are not compressed in either. Like I said, the relocation brackets themselves are 3"16" steel, so both sides combined make up 3/8" that I am off. There is no way Im going to open up the bracket that far, it would F it up if I did. I really think I need smaller rod ends or to cut them down. PM me if you want to discuss further. Thanks for your promt response to this issue.
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What relocation brackets are you running? Most relocation brackets will have a 3/16" spacer inside of them, this is because they mount on the outside of the control arm mounts and the spacers inside are to take up the difference. We make all control arms to factory spec, width and length. Moser rear ends do come supplied with wider mounts than factory and they use thicker steel but this makes the mount wider usually, not too narrow. Do you have a picture of the relocation brackets installed?
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I bought this 12 bolt used, it came with these relocation brackets, yes, they are mounted inside the stock brakets:
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/32219343475.jpg?1301144553)
They worked with my old LCA's, they were only 2" wide at the rear end. I guess I could order different relocation brackets that mount on the outside as you mention. Like I said, if I mounted your LCA's without these relocation brackets it looks like they would fit fine, so not saying there is anything wrong with your product. Maybe someone fabbed these brackets up themselves, not really sure, or I guess some manufacturer made ones that fit inside the stock location instead of outside. Do you see a problem with me taking 3/16" off the rod ends to make this work or do you think I should wait and get the correct brackets.
![](https://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/32219343475.jpg?1301144553)
They worked with my old LCA's, they were only 2" wide at the rear end. I guess I could order different relocation brackets that mount on the outside as you mention. Like I said, if I mounted your LCA's without these relocation brackets it looks like they would fit fine, so not saying there is anything wrong with your product. Maybe someone fabbed these brackets up themselves, not really sure, or I guess some manufacturer made ones that fit inside the stock location instead of outside. Do you see a problem with me taking 3/16" off the rod ends to make this work or do you think I should wait and get the correct brackets.
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Greg, Thanks for the picture and that explains it. Those brackets so look like a home fabbed set up or a brand I have never seen. They mount into the inside of the control arm mount making the mount narrower than it should be. Most companies like us and our close competitors mount on the outside of the control arm mount so standard width control arms can be used.
There won't be any issue taken some material off those spacers, they are just aluminum and will come right out of the rod end.
I hope that helps,
Ryan
There won't be any issue taken some material off those spacers, they are just aluminum and will come right out of the rod end.
I hope that helps,
Ryan
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Ok, I didnt even know before posting this that anything was unusual about my brackets, I just assumed thats how all of them mounted. They are very heavy duty looking brackets to me, I really dont feel like changing them. Not sure how old this moser rear is, I bought it used 7 years ago, not sure when the last guy bought it. Maybe this was an older style bracket moser used or maybe the last guy made them, not sure. Either way, at this point the easiest part for me to change is the rod ends. Im going to take 3/16" off each side and go from there. Thanks so much for your prompt response. To answer my questions in less than an hour on a Sat morning is simply amazing customer service to me. You guys rock
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it was very easy to take some material off the rod spacers. Just finished up the instal and took it out for a spin. Almost all the play I had back there with my old lca's is gone. It feels very firm and more controllable now, I can feel little bumps in the road more now but nothing too crazy. Very happy with them so far, great product. Thanks again.