Wheel Hop
#2
On The Tree
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My only experience with rear wheel hop on these cars was at the track. I maybe launched too soft. Felt like I broke the driveshaft! As I got better launching it never reappeared. Later in the shop I found I had bent the aftermarket studs! (all was torqued to #85). This is on a Strange 12-bolt with 3:90 ratio.
Maybe your pinion angle somehow wrong? Loose control arm? Control arm relocation brackets if you are lowered? Maybe it's really clutch chatter (check the patch on a clean surface)? Maybe the torque arm is loose?reaching for straws here. Let me know what you find.
Maybe your pinion angle somehow wrong? Loose control arm? Control arm relocation brackets if you are lowered? Maybe it's really clutch chatter (check the patch on a clean surface)? Maybe the torque arm is loose?reaching for straws here. Let me know what you find.
#4
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Control arm relocation brackets are great for reducing wheelhop. I didn't get much hop on the track to begin with but it was BAD on the street, and they helped me a lot on both, more on the street and that's all I have suspension wise.
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#11
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if you didnt use to get the hop, then something has aged... id check bushings and shocks... the later being the key. but from yr mods you do have some power, time to control it. the relo brackets will help more than lca's, id do those first, and id recommend a torque arm, but not for the track as you will snap something i bet...
#12
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Lower control arm relocation brackets usually eliminate wheel hop issues. An easy way to check if you need them : If your LCA's have a downhill angle toward the front of the car or are parallel to the ground, then you'll need the LCA relocates. If your LCAs angle uphill toward the front of the car, then your wheel hop issue is due to something else in your suspension. I'd check the shocks and LCA bushings, to be on the safe side.
#13
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Adjustable LCA's are pointless.. Get them non-adjustable and never have to worry about them being setup wrong.. The adjustables are set to stock length anyways.. Save your money..
Hell, buy my Hotchkis LCA's.. $200 shipped to your door. BNIB!
Hell, buy my Hotchkis LCA's.. $200 shipped to your door. BNIB!
#15
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when I put on my LCAs my wheel hop was reduced to almost 0... now with bald tires, LCAs, sway bar, and tq arm, its coming back about 1/4 of the time that the tires break loose
Hope that helps
Hope that helps
#16
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Wheel hpo is caused by the tire loading and unloading due to gaining and then lossing traction. A good set of drag radials or slicks will fix it as well as a built suspension.
#17
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I had the same problem last year! I just put on a UMI T/A with Relocation mount and it fixed my problem. I had all UMI suspension parts on the car except the Torque Arm. The stock torque arms are cheap and the flex alot under load. I would defintaly try a T/A!!
Here is a broke stock T/A. https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...orque-arm.html
Here is a broke stock T/A. https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...orque-arm.html
#20
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I had shitty wheel hop a last year....I talked to Sam Strano (sponser) he hooked me up with bilstein shocks and poly/roto non-adjustable lcas. Completly got rid of my wheel hop, and tightend up my ride alot...