UMI STB Fitment Issue
#1
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UMI STB Fitment Issue
Hey guys,
So I just picked up a NBM '98 Z28 and I ordered up the basic UMI suspension stuff. Went to install the strut tower brace and it would not fit. Its like it was too long from tower-to-tower. The flange bolt holes would clear on one side and on the other side one of the studs would rest on the outer edge of the flange. Has anyone ever had a dud from UMI or could it be that my car's unibody is fucked??
So I just picked up a NBM '98 Z28 and I ordered up the basic UMI suspension stuff. Went to install the strut tower brace and it would not fit. Its like it was too long from tower-to-tower. The flange bolt holes would clear on one side and on the other side one of the studs would rest on the outer edge of the flange. Has anyone ever had a dud from UMI or could it be that my car's unibody is fucked??
#2
11 Second Club
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This was the same case when I purchased one for my 2000 SS. No matter which way I tried, I couldn't get it to fit for some reason. It was weird. Your not alone. I'm curous to hear if anyone else has had this problem but got it to work. Funny part is after giving up on the install I gave it to my buddy with a 97 SS. It fit on his car perfect...
#3
This might be a stupid question, but did you try to set the bar into the bolts evenly, each side at the same time? Try that, and don't be afraid to use a rubber hammer to hit each side, a little at a time so that the 2 sides don't become too uneven along their bolts. I had a BMR stb intalled on my '99, then later sold it to a friend who had a '97 and it just took a little bit of that rubber hammer, and everything fit like a glove!
#4
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This might be a stupid question, but did you try to set the bar into the bolts evenly, each side at the same time? Try that, and don't be afraid to use a rubber hammer to hit each side, a little at a time so that the 2 sides don't become too uneven along their bolts. I had a BMR stb intalled on my '99, then later sold it to a friend who had a '97 and it just took a little bit of that rubber hammer, and everything fit like a glove!
#5
FormerVendor
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It happens once or twice a year and it is usually the car and not the brace... it is odd.
Try placing a jack under the center of the k-member and jacking up until the front tires are just off the ground. Try installing it then and see if it fits, this allows the shock towers to relax.
Good luck!
Try placing a jack under the center of the k-member and jacking up until the front tires are just off the ground. Try installing it then and see if it fits, this allows the shock towers to relax.
Good luck!
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#10
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It happens once or twice a year and it is usually the car and not the brace... it is odd.
Try placing a jack under the center of the k-member and jacking up until the front tires are just off the ground. Try installing it then and see if it fits, this allows the shock towers to relax.
Good luck!
Try placing a jack under the center of the k-member and jacking up until the front tires are just off the ground. Try installing it then and see if it fits, this allows the shock towers to relax.
Good luck!
#11
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HOLY SMOKE!!!
Here we go again....you CANNOT get the shock tower brace in place, unless you A) remove the nuts from the upper shock mount on ONE side of the car, and remove the nuts AND bolts from the other side of the car; B) loosen/remove the sway bar link on ONE side of the car; C) lift the front of the car, and push down on the wheel that you took both the nuts and bolts off. As the studs from the upper shock mount go down into the wheel well, put the STB in place; D) bring the wheel back up, and guide the studs through the STB; E) replace all hardware and lower car to the ground.
THIS IS SIMPLE GEOMERTY! The shock towers of the car are constructed in an angle, which creates an inverted "V" shape. You can't get the tabs of the STB over both sets of studs at the same time. You have to "drop" one of the upper shock mounts, so you clear the studs, in order to do the install......
Here we go again....you CANNOT get the shock tower brace in place, unless you A) remove the nuts from the upper shock mount on ONE side of the car, and remove the nuts AND bolts from the other side of the car; B) loosen/remove the sway bar link on ONE side of the car; C) lift the front of the car, and push down on the wheel that you took both the nuts and bolts off. As the studs from the upper shock mount go down into the wheel well, put the STB in place; D) bring the wheel back up, and guide the studs through the STB; E) replace all hardware and lower car to the ground.
THIS IS SIMPLE GEOMERTY! The shock towers of the car are constructed in an angle, which creates an inverted "V" shape. You can't get the tabs of the STB over both sets of studs at the same time. You have to "drop" one of the upper shock mounts, so you clear the studs, in order to do the install......
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Last weekend, I was installing strano springs and koni's and I removed my STB. I removed it with the front end jacked up, with stands behind the front wheels and put it back on the same way with no issues. Mind you I have a SLP STB but worth a try with the UMI.
#15
TECH Junkie
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It's more likely the 10+ year old car, and not the brand new precision made piece. Mine fit like a glove.
I can't believe so many people believe that a strut tower brace doesn't do anything. I've noticed a difference in every one I've ever installed on 93-02 cars. Definitely makes a difference, steering feels more "exact" going around corners. A great, cheap mod IMO.
I can't believe so many people believe that a strut tower brace doesn't do anything. I've noticed a difference in every one I've ever installed on 93-02 cars. Definitely makes a difference, steering feels more "exact" going around corners. A great, cheap mod IMO.
#17
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I'm not sure I understand your point....I have a '96 Z-28, bought it brand new in Oct. of '95. Installed an LG Motorsports 4 point STB on it about 18 months later. I had to "lower" one of the upper shock mounts (per the instructions) in order to install the part then, and in later years, when I've either made suspension mods, or fixed engine oil leaks (it IS an LT1), and I've had to remove the STB, I've ALWAYS had to lower one of the upper shock mounts....there's NO OTHER WAY!!
#18
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I'm not sure I understand your point....I have a '96 Z-28, bought it brand new in Oct. of '95. Installed an LG Motorsports 4 point STB on it about 18 months later. I had to "lower" one of the upper shock mounts (per the instructions) in order to install the part then, and in later years, when I've either made suspension mods, or fixed engine oil leaks (it IS an LT1), and I've had to remove the STB, I've ALWAYS had to lower one of the upper shock mounts....there's NO OTHER WAY!!
#20
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4 point is completely different than a 2 point so I'm not sure I understand your point? If the instructions told you to lower the shock mounts, thats obviously how it was designed to be installed. The 2 point UMI STB are supposed to slip on after you remove the nuts. That's what the instructions say, and that's exactly how it works unless the geometry of the front end is messed up in some way (not hard to come by on a 10+ year old vehicle, especially a flimsy F-body with torque that usually get driven hard)
OK, I'm going to edit this, to avoid what appears to be some confusion. After looking at both BMR and UMI's sites, it appears that they are using "slots" on their STBs, instead of holes. I imagine that they are doing this for ease of installation, however it may allow for some movement or "flexure" at the mounting point of the STB. The LG Motorsports STB that I have has 4 distinct holes in the mounting tabs, and this STB mounts "snugly" over the shock mount studs, therefore it is impossible to install my STB without dropping the shock/spring ***'y.
Apparently, the STB that "mitchntx" either has, or has seen, is constructed the same as mine, therefore his agreement with me, on the mounting procedure....
Last edited by leadfoot4; 05-22-2011 at 08:47 AM.