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no impact gun on rotors?

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Old 05-30-2011, 10:19 PM
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Default no impact gun on rotors?

The ATE brake rotors I'm installing say not to use a pneumatic tool to tighten down the lug nuts and to use a torque wrench instead. Not a huge deal except that the last time I used that approach I broke a wheel stud. Thankfully, it was on the front and didn't involve axle pulling or any of the hair-raising adventures of replacing a rear stud but the experience left me seriously gun shy. I've been using the impact gun ever since with zero problems. So what's the deal with these rotors and whats the harm in using an impact gun?

I'd ask Sam since i bought these rotors off of him, but he's off to the races until Wednesday. Happy Memorial Day and thank you so much to all who serve!
Old 05-31-2011, 01:00 AM
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Uneven torque on the studs can lead to shudder/warping of the rotors, YMMV.

How did you manage to break a stud with a torque wrench?
Old 05-31-2011, 01:14 AM
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The stud would have broke with a impact also,stuff happens I run the nuts down the finish them with the proper torque with a torque wrench.
Old 05-31-2011, 02:16 AM
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Originally Posted by SS101
The ATE brake rotors I'm installing say not to use a pneumatic tool to tighten down the lug nuts and to use a torque wrench instead. Not a huge deal except that the last time I used that approach I broke a wheel stud. Thankfully, it was on the front and didn't involve axle pulling or any of the hair-raising adventures of replacing a rear stud but the experience left me seriously gun shy. I've been using the impact gun ever since with zero problems. So what's the deal with these rotors and whats the harm in using an impact gun?

I'd ask Sam since i bought these rotors off of him, but he's off to the races until Wednesday. Happy Memorial Day and thank you so much to all who serve!
Wheels should NEVER be installed with an impact wrench. Always hand torque them. It only takes a few moments longer and will usually avoid broken studs, loose lug nuts, warped rotors and other problems.

Chris
Old 05-31-2011, 07:12 AM
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Its actually safer to use an impact (on it's lowest setting or with a torque stick) then hand torque with a torque wrench, going over each nut twice in a star pattern. IMO from my many years working in a tire store.
Old 05-31-2011, 08:08 AM
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I always insist on having them hand torqued. They always look at me like I'm an idiot.
Old 05-31-2011, 08:45 AM
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oooh... so dumb question, what is the correct torque amount?


...I've just been cranking the hell out of 'em with a 4-way wrench and noticed I strip out every 3rd or 4th lug nut. Is there any physical or audible sign that mine might be too tight?
Old 05-31-2011, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by VinR1
oooh... so dumb question, what is the correct torque amount?


...I've just been cranking the hell out of 'em with a 4-way wrench and noticed I strip out every 3rd or 4th lug nut. Is there any physical or audible sign that mine might be too tight?
Tighten them to 100 lb. ft. You don't have to kill 'em.
Old 05-31-2011, 12:06 PM
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As for how, I don't know. It was the last nut in the series of 5, the wrench pinged on the other 4 with no issue, and this one broke. There was a sudden metallic bang and the nut with half the stud in it fell out.
Old 05-31-2011, 12:51 PM
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if you're breaking lug studs, you're doing it wrong.

most people over torque the lugs, both by hand, and by impact.
your goal is between 80 and 100 ft lbs of torque.

think of it this way...

If you had a ratchet on there with a handle one foot long, you would need 80 to 100 lbs of weight on that ratchet to be tight.

If you had a ratchet on there with a handle two feet long, you would need only 40 to 50 lbs of weight on that ratchet to be tight.


now think back.. how many of us have put most of our body weight on the end of that handle as you've cranked it tight.... that handle is probably between 1 and 2 ft long.. unless you're using a breaker bar or long torque wrench.. then its even longer!


the other thing people do is **** the wheel on the rotor.. then they tighten.. what happens is the wheel gets stuck cocked.... seat of the wheel lug is cone shaped and tightening it bends the stud.
this is easily avoided by simply spinning the wheel as you tighten them. if its cocked, its obvious as it spins.
Old 05-31-2011, 03:40 PM
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damn... it looks as if I need to go loosen my lug nuts a bit...
Old 05-31-2011, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by SS101
The ATE brake rotors I'm installing say not to use a pneumatic tool to tighten down the lug nuts and to use a torque wrench instead.
Heat cycling of a floating rotor that is not properly torqued will result in a warping issue many times.
Their way of insuring that you install them properly.
Old 06-01-2011, 01:35 PM
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I think a lot of it is the rotor company covering it's butt. I use a torque stick that goes on the end of the impact gun to torque wheels down. However, I remember when it became a big deal in GM's eyes that improper torque of the lug nuts were causing their rotors to warp. I also remember it was on certain cars and no matter what you did the rotors would warp. My wifes Malibu for example I torqued them down with a torque wrench from the very beginning and the rotors were warped within 10,000 miles. After they had warped I machined the rotors and shimmed the backside of the rotor for proper runout. Still even after I followed all of GM's procedures the rotors were warped within 8-9 months. This time I still had enough room on the rotor so I cut them again and still had issues within 10,000 miles. Finally the car was out of warranty and I bought a set of NAPA rotors and it now has 40,000 miles on those rotors with no issues. Needless to say at the same time I was making money off of hundreds of Malibus and other cars with warped rotors. Some of these cars had no record of even having the tires off before so I fail to believe the claims of improper torque. Furthermore, I don't have a torque stick for 7/8 lug nuts so on my personal 2500HD with 90,000 miles has never had the lug nuts torqued down and still has the original rotors with no issues. Lastly, I would recommend using a torque wrench even if it's debatable.
Old 06-01-2011, 01:41 PM
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Now I know how to do this correctly. I feel like such a dumbass! LOL!!
Old 06-01-2011, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris_B
Wheels should NEVER be installed with an impact wrench. Always hand torque them. It only takes a few moments longer and will usually avoid broken studs, loose lug nuts, warped rotors and other problems.

Chris
I disagree, but when you do use an impact gun, you still need to finish it off with a torque wrench. Impact guns that advertise 250 ft/lbs like my DeWalt don't torque it to 250 ft/lbs. I put my torque wrench to 100 ft/lbs and am still torqing everytime. It will break 100 ft/lbs free though..
Old 06-01-2011, 04:19 PM
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Always use a tq wrench, tq sticks are not that accurate,
Old 06-01-2011, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 1BAD02WS6
Its actually safer to use an impact (on it's lowest setting or with a torque stick) then hand torque with a torque wrench, going over each nut twice in a star pattern. IMO from my many years working in a tire store.
ummmmmmmmmm no
Old 06-01-2011, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 1BAD02WS6
Its actually safer to use an impact (on it's lowest setting or with a torque stick) then hand torque with a torque wrench, going over each nut twice in a star pattern. IMO from my many years working in a tire store.
so an impact is safer than installing the lug nuts by hand tightening them (to assure your not crossing or stripping threads) then following up with the torque wrench set to the recommended specs?

What tire shop do you work for? the only time i have ever seen an impact used was to either remove lug nuts (which still makes me cringe on the thought of someone damaging the wheels) or to give as much torque once the lug nuts were tightened on an RV... the dude stood on the damn torque wrench to get the RV lug nuts to spec...
Old 06-01-2011, 04:52 PM
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thats why i dont let "tire shops" work on my car unless im there watching.
Old 06-01-2011, 05:05 PM
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Yes I start the nuts by hand and use a torque stick on my impact at it's lowest setting. I don't hammer on the nut with my gun and stick just run it up. I then use a torque wrench on each nut and I do it twice. I only do it twice to insure that wheel was seated properly. If on the 2nd pass the nut moves before the wrench clicks I know that the wheel was not seated properly. I don't see anything wrong with this?


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