Average Joe

Good afternoon,

I have come to a monetary crossroads at the moment and cannot decide what the more cost effective of these 2 mods will be?

I would like the next mod to drop my 60 foot time enough to hit my 11 second N/A goal by October/November timeframe of this year.

Any info is much appreciated.

Average Joe

Wow...

So nobody has any good info huh?

So sad.

TheSilverOne

iTrader: (22)

shocks

Camaroking1996

LCA's and Panhard bar will help 60 foot times better than those choices

99SSJarhead

iTrader: (2)

I'd say an adjustable torque arm and possibly a relocation tranny mount to help keep the rears planted

Average Joe

Read Sig, I have LCA's installed already. Just need to drop my 60 foot another tenth or 2.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Is there even a question in the first post? What exactly are you asking?

cnd99hawk

iTrader: (2)

He kinda is asking a question lol I had to read a couple times... Its not directly in the post but in the subject line.

cnd99hawk

iTrader: (2)

I say LCARB! Really helped me stay hooked and more straight.

Average Joe

^ What do the relocation brackets do exactly?

And I apologize if my question seemed vague, I just wanted to see what a more cost effective suspension mod would be between the 2. I ask this because every little bump or uneven surface creates a squeak from underneath the car like a cheap hotel bed thats been wore out by repetitive motions lol.

I also understand from my reading that the stock shocks are no longer useful after 50k plus miles, am I correct?

I just need to knock off a tenth off my 60 foot and I can finally have my 11 second slip.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I say shocks if you are on stock decarbons, those things suck.

License2Ill

iTrader: (1)

Your question is posted just fine...dont apoligize for else's vision problems.

If your mostly after that timeslip which it seems like you are...i think the jarhead fella is correct. You will likely get that from the torque arm. It's not that cheap tho....and also I cannot speak from experience(idont own1) but with adjustabilitly you can get it to help your launch.

Poly bushings are overrated. I did do those and well it's definitely not as mushy....but the front lower control arm rear bushing is extra stiff. I would think twice over running it vs. stock unit. IF you do poly anytime soon.

Shocks from factory are just plain meh.
Will you get the timeslip from replacing them?? it's very likely.
But there are a lot of options to choose from here. You will def. get the results from a set of drag shocks in all 4 corners. But in my opinion thoz drag specific shocks have to suck on the street. I'd go with Koni's da...nevermind the blah blah abt single adj...if you really really want to dial in best you can at the drag strip and attempt to emulate a drag setup then you need DA's. Now just how exactly close you will come to a drag shock setup with Koni Da's I cannot tell you. Im not a shock engineer. But I value street prowess and handling over drag so I dont care for my susp to lean more on street handling. You may differ tho.

Your best bang it would seem and easiest to do would be Jarheads post. But its not gauranteed either. Im sure you have to set that up real nice to make the most gains. You should prob have good rear tires before this mod. I can't reference ur sign...while i type.
To sum; i dont think poly bushings are going to do much for ya...and its a lot of work.
shocks could do it...especially a drag set...but do u really want that? +$$
Adj torque will likely do it...but u'll need to dial it in and should have sticky rubber before this mod in my opinion...becuz if you don't...then sticky rubber will get u what u want much easier than torkarm.

Now the torkarm being halfway to the cost of a fays2watts? yea I'd skip it....and get the much broader returns a fays2 has to offer....but i dont know if it's a wonderful addition to an all out drag setup. but i know it offers much more than the torkarm does.

You could do a set of bilstein shocks too which are good value and offer good general valving. Capable of getting u that tenth u want with good ride quality and not as expensive. (this offers a general broad return vs...torkarm is very specific in it's function)

-L2I

Average Joe

Sounds like a set of bilstein shocks and struts are in my future, especially if they help weight transfer better than the stockers.

Any good ideas where I could pick up a cheap set lol?

SSHAWK

iTrader: (14)

Hope this helps you.. I have them and love them. I went with the bolt on for now. Getting a new rearend and don't want to have to buy new ones.

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=116


F-Body Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets Weld-In

Reposition your instant center by changing your lower control arm angle for improved traction. Brackets lower the rear of the control arm up to 3", a must for all lowered vehicles to correct lost suspension geometry. By lowering your vehicle, you are changing the lower control arm angle allowing the rear mounting point to sit higher than the front. This will, in return, cause wheel hop and a great deal of traction loss.

Lowered Vehicles: We do not recommend lowering a 3rd or 4th generation F-Body without lower control arm relocation brackets due to the compromise in the geometry on the instant center. Brackets will significantly improve instant center position, eliminate wheel hop and increase traction. Brackets installed will also help 60-foot times of .10 or better, lower ETs and increase track consistency--a must for all lowered vehicles!

Non-Lowered Vehicles: Product installed on a stock height vehicle will also see a great increase in traction by lowering the rearward angle of the lower control arm, allowing more force to be placed on the rear tires. Relocation brackets have two settings to allow the lower control arm to be lowered either 2" or 3", depending on your preference. Settings are placed in a correct pattern that will allow use of all OEM control arms or any aftermarket control arm (brackets do not require a longer control arm.) Brackets installed on a non-lowered F-Body provide a .10 or better 60-foot; reduction and an increase in track consistency.

Installation:
Brackets are Weld-in only and install in approximately 1 - 1½ hours. All hardware and installation instructions are included with each kit.

Bolt on link

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=117

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

shocks, not even close.

Average Joe

Do you happen to carry a good set of shocks and struts Sir? I hear your the man with the properly set-up suspension plan.

KTK Z28

iTrader: (6)

Your probably best off calling Sam and explaining your wants and budget. He is generally referred mostly to road race, handling set ups but he can definitely point you in the right direction regarding drag racing.

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

For handling, I Agree 100%
for street driving, I also agree 100%

for drag launches.... odd, but your best bet would be to leave the stockers since they're pretty much 50/50 drag shocks... and just run either QA1s or worn out as crappy as possible struts.... that will help weight transfer.
new good front struts will HURT your drag launch.



Joe... go home.

rabbit320

iTrader: (11)

shocks; adjustable...

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

His question was about as vague and generalized as I've ever seen. In order to properly give advice, you must have a direct question. But, the thread has gone well up until your long winded incoherent response, Mr. Torkarm Crawl back under your rock.

SHOCKS SHOCKS SHOCKS

Happy?