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Need advise on suspension

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Old 08-18-2011 | 09:02 PM
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Default Need advise on suspension

Hey guys i have a 95 camaro that i'm looking to start upgrading the suspension on. I'm looking for Max Handling but don't know where to start. I was thinking shocks and springs would be first but i'm not sure.

What suspension mods should I do for setting up my car to handle really well?
And does anyone make a good suspension package for my needs?


thanks guys
Old 08-18-2011 | 09:10 PM
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shocks, springs, lca's, panhard bar, and sub-frame connectors are a good start. Also a good set of sticky tires makes a big difference.
Old 08-18-2011 | 09:41 PM
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What shocks and springs should i go with? there are tons of different ones out there. I know some are better than others so which are good?

Also i was reading that getting a watts link is better then a panhard bar.
Is that true?
Old 08-18-2011 | 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 1C3 MAN
What shocks and springs should i go with? there are tons of different ones out there. I know some are better than others so which are good?

Also i was reading that getting a watts link is better then a panhard bar.
Is that true?
What are you doing with the car? What is your budget?
Old 08-18-2011 | 10:13 PM
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The car is my daily driver but i will be taking it to track days.
And i havent thought about price yet because i don't know what all i need to do. but i dont want to cheap out on parts that's for sure.
Old 08-19-2011 | 09:57 AM
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I have the slp billsteins and the rest of my stuff is UMI. I am pretty happy with it. My 3500 pound tank handles similar to my sister's Miata now. Not better, but similar which is saying a lot since that car is so little.
Old 08-19-2011 | 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by 1C3 MAN
The car is my daily driver but i will be taking it to track days.
And i havent thought about price yet because i don't know what all i need to do. but i dont want to cheap out on parts that's for sure.
Tires, shocks, springs, bars. Sticky tires will provides better grip, better shocks will control the springs. Lowering springs can improve handling, provided the rates are correct. sway bars will reduce roll, and if they are sized correctly, move the car more towards neutral instead of understeering in corners.

All the above, budget maybe $2500 (upper end, but not absolutely top end) not including alignment.

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Old 08-19-2011 | 12:42 PM
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Max handling...

I don't really know what the absolute best parts would be for an Fbody. Most don't really go into the stratosphere of performance suspension components with say Penske shocks or the like.

But, even if you just put a set of good shocks like a Koni sport it will be night and day. I would go with a nice set of sway bars as well to get started. Springs wouldn't be a bad mod either. And of course tires.

Sam Strano could help you out. He is also running a sale on shocks right now.
Old 08-19-2011 | 12:58 PM
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Okay guys thanks so far.

I was on BMR's website looking at their handling packages and was wondering why their level 2 handling package came with

front and rear sway bars
tokico HP series front struts
rear shocks
lowering springs
adjustable panhard bar
control arm relocation brackets
tunnel brace
HD box subframe connectors
and a strut tower brace

And is 1469.00. And their KONI performance handling package only comes with

front and rear sway bars
550lb front springs
160lb rear springs
and koni double adjustable shock absorbers

And it is 1956.00


Are the koni shocks really that good considering you dont get any of the other stuff from their handling package and it cost more?
Old 08-19-2011 | 01:25 PM
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You have to be careful of many packages, because they are put together to make things easier for folks to buy and for us to sell.

I sell very few packages, only stuff I absolutely know works together and the basics. As folks get more into modding, they all want different things, so it's not possible for me to through 10 things in a kit and know that it'll all be right. Moreover, just because a package exists doesn't mean it's right for your individual needs.

Koni's rock, which is why I've used and sold them for years (unlike some others that just recently picked them up). And my pricing is very good on them. Yes, they are expensive, but put it in perspective a good set of headers costs a lot more and are much easier to build and do much less work on a constant basis. And then there is this....... I could sell you DA's and tell you they are the best, etc, etc.... but I won't. Singles work great, in fact I OWN A set of Doubles for my car, and I don't actually run them. Also there are other less expensive shock options you could consider too (one Koni the other Bilstein).

I'll simply say this. The first kit you mentioned uses not so good shocks (I also sell those) and includes things that are useless to handling (not that many would know that since handling is what I do, drag racing is what they do). So yeah a kit like that is cheaper than one with Koni's.

Here's what I'd recommend:

Koni shocks, externally adjustable rears: http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=20&ModelID=7

Strano Lowering Springs: http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...=113&ModelID=7

Strano Sway bars: http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...=126&ModelID=7

Add that up, and it's $1557.98 (while the Koni's are on special), AND its the very same stuff that has WON MULTIPLE SCCA NATIONAL CHAMPIONSHIPS, as well the same springs and bars that are the only approved kit for SCCA Touring2 class road-race cars. Nobody else here can offer you those kind of proven results.
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Old 08-19-2011 | 01:53 PM
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Okay thanks so much for the information Sam.
I was told that if I lower the car I will need a adjustable panhard Bar.
Is that true?
Old 08-19-2011 | 02:29 PM
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If your just beginning to go to the track, and don't have any real experience on the track, then I actually suggest to upgrade the brakes with new rotors and good track ready pads and hit the track in stock form on street tires. You will learn more this way and you will also learn just exactly where you want the improvements to the car to be made. I know it seems odd, but it can actually be counter productive to learn on a track (which is a whole different world than any kind of street driving) in a car that is modified to handle better than stock.

That being said:

I still drive my car on the street, but it is setup more for the track than anything...

I went the Global West route and I couldn't be happier.. Global West makes some top notch stuff and the car is completely night and day better both on the track and street.

You can find my thread on my GW upgrades here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...e-project.html
Old 08-19-2011 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 1C3 MAN
Okay thanks so much for the information Sam.
I was told that if I lower the car I will need a adjustable panhard Bar.
Is that true?
Ideally yes. Then you will be able to center the axle at the new ride height. You might be able to get away without one, depends partly on the offset and width of the rear wheels.

As for some other things...

STB: not needed.

LCA lowering brackets: need is a strong word, would correct LCA geometry if you lower. Not helpful for handling if stock ride height.

LCA's: aftermarket not needed, but you should be pressing some solid rubber bushings into the stock ones.

Tunnel brace: not needed, unless you lost yours

SFC: not particularly needed. Even if they stiffen the chassis, does that make up for weight penalty?

The useful things are the shocks, sway bars and springs. Foremost shocks, as already stated above. The only ones I would personally consider (excepting very expensive race oriented gear) are Koni or Bilstein.
Old 08-21-2011 | 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by HAZ-Matt
Ideally yes. Then you will be able to center the axle at the new ride height. You might be able to get away without one, depends partly on the offset and width of the rear wheels.

As for some other things...

STB: not needed.

LCA lowering brackets: need is a strong word, would correct LCA geometry if you lower. Not helpful for handling if stock ride height.

LCA's: aftermarket not needed, but you should be pressing some solid rubber bushings into the stock ones.

Tunnel brace: not needed, unless you lost yours

SFC: not particularly needed. Even if they stiffen the chassis, does that make up for weight penalty?

The useful things are the shocks, sway bars and springs. Foremost shocks, as already stated above. The only ones I would personally consider (excepting very expensive race oriented gear) are Koni or Bilstein.
Perfectly put. In all honesty sam set up a great option to start you off. Throw in a poly/poly on car adjustable PHB, and some moog solid rubber bushings for your LCA's (poly is terrible for this part) and you will light years ahead of most F-body suspensions. If you do SFC's I'd suggest some boxed ones so you can have the added benefit of using them as jacking rails. A refresh of the front suspension bushings (perhaps poly in some locations), ball joints, tie rod ends, and all would be a good idea as well. One last thing is stick with a full length torque arm. For handling purposes this is better because it limits brake induced wheel hop unlike the short ones that contribute to it.
Old 08-21-2011 | 11:48 AM
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I like the BMR and Hotchkis stuff myself. And they work great.
Old 08-21-2011 | 11:52 AM
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Listen to Sam Strano. I've got his stuff on my '98 and not only does it handle incredibly well, it feels balanced and ride quality is good, too.



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