Firehawk171

Hi Guys
Stock 2002 Firehawk, 50k miles, original rotors, I am noticing a "shimmy" or front end vibration I can feel through the steering wheel when braking at speed. I assume this is warping of the front rotors(my Dad's Yukon just had the same deal). I have read different threads about this being common and turning rotors is costly and often ends up with warping again. If I decide to replace the rotors, is it necessary to replace pads also? I still have plenty of life on these pads? Please advise.
Thanks
Justin

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

If your rotors are warped then you should change pads also imo

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Hi Justin. If you are street driving only you can get away with keeping your same pads. Rotor cutting is going by the wayside but can be a viable option if you have a reputable shop that can get you a few more months out of them with a quick turning. You have to balance that price with the inevitable warping lurking around the corner. Your same shop may be able to scuff your pads to break the glaze.

Are they the factory pads?

ramey

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

The factory rotors are junk. Mine warped like crazy after 50K miles of city driving. I purchased a cheap set of replacements, which have been great. IMO - Cardboard disks would be better than the stock rotors. (OK - that might be an exaggeration.)

+1 on Ramey's comments. If you turn the rotors, you'll just have less metal/mass in them and they will warp worse/faster on you.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

What you are feeling is the uneven distribution of pad material across the rotor surface. There really is no such thing as a warped rotor were the rotor is physically deformed, it has just become the slang term people throw around to describe this type of issue.

Having your rotors resurfaced is only a temporary band-aid to the problem that will reoccur shortly after. The reason this happens is because these "hot spots" aren't exactly just on the surface, they go deep into the rotor. When the initial layer is taken off all the pad material that has been distributed on the friction band is removed, but the hot spot areas will be the first to create a build up again.

The best option is to simple replace the pads and rotors together. Steer clear of cheap pads and especially cheap rotors. Go with a good, quality blank rotor or slotted. Cross drilled rotors are not the best option. While they look cool. They will tend to create stress cracks earlier than a slotted or solid, blank face rotor. For pads, stick with the big boys like Hawk, Carbotech, and StopTech. DBA makes a good rotor and so does Centric/StopTech.

Firehawk171

Thanks guys. I will look to replace pads and rotors on the front. I purchased my car with 28,000 miles from first owner. I have not replaced any brake parts and could not find anything showing replacement by PO.
Justin

camaroboy14

iTrader: (8)

Brake motive .. Pretty cheap for everything

blackls1ta00

iTrader: (27)

alot of guys like the brembo blanks,idk i never tried them but anything is better than stock,especially if you need to stop quick say doing a 100mph, i use baer rotors for now.