Watt's link adjustment
07-08-2012, 09:43 AM
#1
Watt's link adjustment What affects what?
Roll center: Setting the pivot point location up and down? Is top stock? Does lowering it make the rear tighter?
Location of brackets relative to roll center: Does putting it closer to the center point affect anything?
All the tweaking is more for fit than anything, but those two things make me wonder how it affects the handing out back. My dual exhaust gets hit by the bolt on the bracket and I'd like to move the brackets closer to center which in turn forces enough rotation of the bracket to angle it in such a way that the bolt won't impact.
Roll center: Setting the pivot point location up and down? Is top stock? Does lowering it make the rear tighter?
Location of brackets relative to roll center: Does putting it closer to the center point affect anything?
All the tweaking is more for fit than anything, but those two things make me wonder how it affects the handing out back. My dual exhaust gets hit by the bolt on the bracket and I'd like to move the brackets closer to center which in turn forces enough rotation of the bracket to angle it in such a way that the bolt won't impact.
07-08-2012, 10:02 PM
#3
Well I played with the setting.
Up top = high roll center = weight shift happy car
It's a little too much and the car will "sway" in the back if you get on it in a corner or "break" loose sooner than expected than a typical panhard setup.
I went in and kept going down until I hit the 4th setting, 3 was getting there, but 4 really solidified everything.
The sway has been minimized to almost my "binded" poly/poly version of LCA's. I say that loosely because while it "feels" like the articulation is gone, its only the feel I get from accelerating. The reality is it's probably squatting down nicely and just planting itself better. Over bumps and while turns, it acts almost the same as the panhard, except it feels the same going left or right. The way it bites into the pavement while driving 35mph and throwing the steering hard right to hard left was well felt and predictable.
Up top = high roll center = weight shift happy car
It's a little too much and the car will "sway" in the back if you get on it in a corner or "break" loose sooner than expected than a typical panhard setup.
I went in and kept going down until I hit the 4th setting, 3 was getting there, but 4 really solidified everything.
The sway has been minimized to almost my "binded" poly/poly version of LCA's. I say that loosely because while it "feels" like the articulation is gone, its only the feel I get from accelerating. The reality is it's probably squatting down nicely and just planting itself better. Over bumps and while turns, it acts almost the same as the panhard, except it feels the same going left or right. The way it bites into the pavement while driving 35mph and throwing the steering hard right to hard left was well felt and predictable.
07-09-2012, 06:23 AM
#4
Staging Lane
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Kentucky
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Slade: is your car lowered or stock height. I orginaly installed mine in the middle setting on the stock springs. When I lowered the car I moved the pivot up a few notches. And now it gets a little loose when I get back to the gas mid corner. I've been thinking about moving back down. And just letting my bars run a little crooked.
07-09-2012, 07:05 AM
#5
I'm at stock height. Setting 1-3 felt too loose. If I got on it hard while turning, it would almost bounce side to side. 3 felt like the panhard setup, but in turns, would break loose easier with less gas. The 4th middle setting is tighter than my panhard setup and breaks loose in a turn with almost as much throttle which feels safer to me. Im tempted to try 1 more down.
07-11-2012, 06:29 PM
#6
Confirmation that the MWC Watt's link is designed that the 4th hole is the stock height setting.
Half nuts torque 40 ft/lb
Full nuts torque 80 ft/lbs
Set bars as equal length.
Keep brackets loose until finalized.
Length of bar dictated by space you have for positioning your bracket, make the other match accordingly in length.
Try to set them parallel to the axle tubes as much as possible. Make final tweaks to sphere positioning once most of it is bolted down as the brackets clamping down may alter the angle slightly requiring adjustment of spherical joints relative to each other.
Half nuts torque 40 ft/lb
Full nuts torque 80 ft/lbs
Set bars as equal length.
Keep brackets loose until finalized.
Length of bar dictated by space you have for positioning your bracket, make the other match accordingly in length.
Try to set them parallel to the axle tubes as much as possible. Make final tweaks to sphere positioning once most of it is bolted down as the brackets clamping down may alter the angle slightly requiring adjustment of spherical joints relative to each other.
