Newish rear suspension feels loose/ clunky
04-30-2013, 10:32 PM
#1
Newish rear suspension feels loose/ clunky Here is the setup:
Strange 12 bolt
Bilstein shocks
BMR Panhard rod (poly)
BMR Control arms (poly)
Nitto 555s
Stock springs/ sways and torque arm
All of the above non stock parts have under 10k on them.
On rough patches of road, I have a clunk in the rear end. Like something connected to my axle is bouncing and lightly hitting the body. The rear feels loose in general (as if its phasing/ wandering), it seems to lean a solid amount and bounce through less than smooth road. My buddy's completely stock T/A feels much tighter. When I had it up on a lift numerous times, everything looks/ feels good.
What can I look for?
Strange 12 bolt
Bilstein shocks
BMR Panhard rod (poly)
BMR Control arms (poly)
Nitto 555s
Stock springs/ sways and torque arm
All of the above non stock parts have under 10k on them.
On rough patches of road, I have a clunk in the rear end. Like something connected to my axle is bouncing and lightly hitting the body. The rear feels loose in general (as if its phasing/ wandering), it seems to lean a solid amount and bounce through less than smooth road. My buddy's completely stock T/A feels much tighter. When I had it up on a lift numerous times, everything looks/ feels good.
What can I look for?
04-30-2013, 11:15 PM
#3
TECH Fanatic
Here is the setup:
Strange 12 bolt
Bilstein shocks
BMR Panhard rod (poly)
BMR Control arms (poly)
Nitto 555s
Stock springs/ sways and torque arm
All of the above non stock parts have under 10k on them.
On rough patches of road, I have a clunk in the rear end. Like something connected to my axle is bouncing and lightly hitting the body. The rear feels loose in general (as if its phasing/ wandering), it seems to lean a solid amount and bounce through less than smooth road. My buddy's completely stock T/A feels much tighter. When I had it up on a lift numerous times, everything looks/ feels good.
What can I look for?
Strange 12 bolt
Bilstein shocks
BMR Panhard rod (poly)
BMR Control arms (poly)
Nitto 555s
Stock springs/ sways and torque arm
All of the above non stock parts have under 10k on them.
On rough patches of road, I have a clunk in the rear end. Like something connected to my axle is bouncing and lightly hitting the body. The rear feels loose in general (as if its phasing/ wandering), it seems to lean a solid amount and bounce through less than smooth road. My buddy's completely stock T/A feels much tighter. When I had it up on a lift numerous times, everything looks/ feels good.
What can I look for?
05-01-2013, 12:35 AM
#5
The next time I have it on a lift I'll go over every nut and bolt. Last time I shook the crap out of everything and it was all tight.
Negative on the relo brackets.
Yeah so I've heard about poly, mostly in the PHBs though. I'll go see what people say about them in the LCAs. The PO installed all of this, I have a set of strano springs waiting to go in so I'll be swapping that bar out for a founders adjustable poly/roto joint bar.
I've been debating taking advantage of BMR's Koni sale, I still have the decrapons in the front and would love to see how much of a difference there is. But its a good chunk of change for an unemployed guy right now
Negative on the relo brackets.
Yeah so I've heard about poly, mostly in the PHBs though. I'll go see what people say about them in the LCAs. The PO installed all of this, I have a set of strano springs waiting to go in so I'll be swapping that bar out for a founders adjustable poly/roto joint bar.
I've been debating taking advantage of BMR's Koni sale, I still have the decrapons in the front and would love to see how much of a difference there is. But its a good chunk of change for an unemployed guy right now
05-03-2013, 01:42 PM
#6
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05-04-2013, 01:34 PM
#10
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I recently did some UMI bolt in subframe connectors. Don't have the instructions handy but they bolt to the rear control arm mount and they said something like 70 ft lb torque but if you get a clunk from the rear take them up to 90-100 ft lb. Maybe something to it?
05-04-2013, 03:28 PM
#11
TECH Fanatic
My experience with my bolt-on LCA relocation brackets is after I installed them, I had a rattle. Turns out that I didn't have them torqued down tight enough to the axle.
05-06-2013, 07:20 PM
#12
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I found the problem with the LCA relocation brackets. I have them installed with UMI LCA's. The bolts that came with the brackets were a tiny bit too small or the rotojoint end of the LCA's. The bolt fit snug enough through the bracket - the LCA was a wee bit bigger. The hardware was still tight, but the rotojoint side of the LCA could still be jiggled up and down slightly. I managed to shim things out with the bolt going through the LCA and it's solid and quiet now. If I had known all this on the front side, I would get bigger bolts and drill out the brackets a bit. It's a pretty stout bracket, though, so it might require several drill bits.
09-12-2013, 09:53 PM
#13
I found the problem with the LCA relocation brackets. I have them installed with UMI LCA's. The bolts that came with the brackets were a tiny bit too small or the rotojoint end of the LCA's. The bolt fit snug enough through the bracket - the LCA was a wee bit bigger. The hardware was still tight, but the rotojoint side of the LCA could still be jiggled up and down slightly. I managed to shim things out with the bolt going through the LCA and it's solid and quiet now. If I had known all this on the front side, I would get bigger bolts and drill out the brackets a bit. It's a pretty stout bracket, though, so it might require several drill bits.
09-12-2013, 10:41 PM
#14
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Check the torque on the torque arm. I had a banging sound coming from the middle/rear of the car and couldn't figure out what was going on. I grabbed everything, and nothing budged.
I finally started putting a wrench on everything and the torque arm bolts/nuts had loosened up. Tightened them up and the banging stopped.
I finally started putting a wrench on everything and the torque arm bolts/nuts had loosened up. Tightened them up and the banging stopped.
09-13-2013, 10:16 AM
#15
Cool thanks! Every bushing on this car has been beyond shot so far. So
I'm assuming the torque arm bushing is no different. I'm thinking about just replacing the torque arm and trans mount. I think it will tighten things up a bit.
I'm assuming the torque arm bushing is no different. I'm thinking about just replacing the torque arm and trans mount. I think it will tighten things up a bit.
09-13-2013, 01:29 PM
#16
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The 12-bolt is more unsprung mass and will challenge all
the soft parts and any gaps, more. LCA and Panhard need
to be real tight not to clunk, that's a fact. And on the
Panhard mount it's easy to get the wimpy sheet metal
crushed to where no amount of nut torque will make
the "keep" tight; I had to add a fat fender washer on the
outside, when I discovered this on mine. It would not be
surprising to see it on the LCAs either although those
mount-points are a little thicker.
the soft parts and any gaps, more. LCA and Panhard need
to be real tight not to clunk, that's a fact. And on the
Panhard mount it's easy to get the wimpy sheet metal
crushed to where no amount of nut torque will make
the "keep" tight; I had to add a fat fender washer on the
outside, when I discovered this on mine. It would not be
surprising to see it on the LCAs either although those
mount-points are a little thicker.
09-14-2013, 01:32 PM
#17
Thanks for the input Jimmy! I'm just going to deal with it for the time being, I hope to get a Watt's link in the future along with swapping out all the BMR stuff for Founders roto as well as Konis and the rest of the suspension so hopefully that'll take care of everything.
