cutting coils for a half inch drop?
01-23-2014, 02:19 AM
#1
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This spring I'm replacing most of my front suspension to tighten the car up, but my budget doesn't give me enough for good shocks and springs. So if I'd contact strano to pick up some bilsteins then cut a small bit off my spring for .5 inch drop instead of elcheapo shocks and springs would I be better off? I don't want really don't want to drop it a full inch, I have trouble not scraping as it is.
By the way the car is my 94 z28.
By the way the car is my 94 z28.
01-26-2014, 12:38 PM
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01-26-2014, 02:19 PM
#4
It affects the spring rate. I'd recommend you save up and buy decent springs as well.
The SLP Bilsteins and SLP Eibach kit only drops it like .5"-.75" and work pretty well together to provide a nice upgrade in ride/handling over stock. You can get that combo for like $650-675 depending on where you look.
The SLP Bilsteins and SLP Eibach kit only drops it like .5"-.75" and work pretty well together to provide a nice upgrade in ride/handling over stock. You can get that combo for like $650-675 depending on where you look.
01-26-2014, 03:17 PM
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It affects the spring rate. I'd recommend you save up and buy decent springs as well.
The SLP Bilsteins and SLP Eibach kit only drops it like .5"-.75" and work pretty well together to provide a nice upgrade in ride/handling over stock. You can get that combo for like $650-675 depending on where you look.
The SLP Bilsteins and SLP Eibach kit only drops it like .5"-.75" and work pretty well together to provide a nice upgrade in ride/handling over stock. You can get that combo for like $650-675 depending on where you look.
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01-27-2014, 06:58 PM
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01-27-2014, 08:32 PM
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01-27-2014, 08:54 PM
#11
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Vogtland is nothing new, they have had springs for our cars for years, their rates are commonly known too:
Front/Rear | Spring lb/inch | Working Rate lb/inch | Drop Front/Rear
Front 336 lb./in. - 542 lb./in. 440 lb./in. - 542 lb./in. 1.2 or 30mm
Rear 77 lb./in - 228 lb./in. 183 lb./in. - 228 lb./in. 1.2 or 30mm
They are progressive which is bad for handling, and their rear rate is pretty damn high, which can cause understeer going into corners and oversteer comming out.
If you are interested in improved handling and ride quality get good shocks first, that fixes the actual issue with the car, get springs later. If all you care about is a lowered ride, then go ahead and get the springs, but the car isn't going to ride well or handle properly. Good shocks will do FAR more for handling/feel then springs, especially springs with stock shocks.
Front/Rear | Spring lb/inch | Working Rate lb/inch | Drop Front/Rear
Front 336 lb./in. - 542 lb./in. 440 lb./in. - 542 lb./in. 1.2 or 30mm
Rear 77 lb./in - 228 lb./in. 183 lb./in. - 228 lb./in. 1.2 or 30mm
They are progressive which is bad for handling, and their rear rate is pretty damn high, which can cause understeer going into corners and oversteer comming out.
If you are interested in improved handling and ride quality get good shocks first, that fixes the actual issue with the car, get springs later. If all you care about is a lowered ride, then go ahead and get the springs, but the car isn't going to ride well or handle properly. Good shocks will do FAR more for handling/feel then springs, especially springs with stock shocks.
01-27-2014, 09:18 PM
#12
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Vogtland is nothing new, they have had springs for our cars for years, their rates are commonly known too:
Front/Rear | Spring lb/inch | Working Rate lb/inch | Drop Front/Rear
Front 336 lb./in. - 542 lb./in. 440 lb./in. - 542 lb./in. 1.2 or 30mm
Rear 77 lb./in - 228 lb./in. 183 lb./in. - 228 lb./in. 1.2 or 30mm
They are progressive which is bad for handling, and their rear rate is pretty damn high, which can cause understeer going into corners and oversteer comming out.
If you are interested in improved handling and ride quality get good shocks first, that fixes the actual issue with the car, get springs later. If all you care about is a lowered ride, then go ahead and get the springs, but the car isn't going to ride well or handle properly. Good shocks will do FAR more for handling/feel then springs, especially springs with stock shocks.
Front/Rear | Spring lb/inch | Working Rate lb/inch | Drop Front/Rear
Front 336 lb./in. - 542 lb./in. 440 lb./in. - 542 lb./in. 1.2 or 30mm
Rear 77 lb./in - 228 lb./in. 183 lb./in. - 228 lb./in. 1.2 or 30mm
They are progressive which is bad for handling, and their rear rate is pretty damn high, which can cause understeer going into corners and oversteer comming out.
If you are interested in improved handling and ride quality get good shocks first, that fixes the actual issue with the car, get springs later. If all you care about is a lowered ride, then go ahead and get the springs, but the car isn't going to ride well or handle properly. Good shocks will do FAR more for handling/feel then springs, especially springs with stock shocks.
01-27-2014, 11:02 PM
#14
It affects the spring rate. I'd recommend you save up and buy decent springs as well. The SLP Bilsteins and SLP Eibach kit only drops it like .5"-.75" and work pretty well together to provide a nice upgrade in ride/handling over stock. You can get that combo for like $650-675 depending on where you look.
You can buy (4) new Bilsteins for around $375. I can't imagine paying an additional $300 for springs to get a .5" drop.
01-28-2014, 01:46 AM
#15
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I'm about as confused as when I started this thread, I don't want to cheap out and do it again later in the fall but those who have done it seem to think my "trimming" the coils doesn't seem to be a big deal. Should I do the heater hose mod in the back and just trim the front or cut all four to even out the spring rate increase? I'd think a stiffer front and softer rear would cause problems
01-28-2014, 07:16 AM
#16
I'm about as confused as when I started this thread, I don't want to cheap out and do it again later in the fall but those who have done it seem to think my "trimming" the coils doesn't seem to be a big deal. Should I do the heater hose mod in the back and just trim the front or cut all four to even out the spring rate increase? I'd think a stiffer front and softer rear would cause problems
01-28-2014, 07:21 AM
#17
Also, if you are uncomfortable with doing the heater hose mod then you can still get about 1/4" of drop in the rear by swapping out the rubber isolators for ones from third gens. Here is a set of factory fourth gen rear springs sitting on the factory rubber isolators. The fourth gen rubber is on the left, the third gen rubber is on the right.
01-28-2014, 07:48 AM
#18
Cut springs are fine, if you're smart about it. This may give you some insight as to how much to cut for a 1/2" drop. There are a few good links to LS1tech posts within the 12 pages of that thread.
http://www.mifbody.com/vbulletin/sho...ing-OE-Springs
Check this post specifically:
http://www.mifbody.com/vbulletin/sho...l=1#post816390
http://www.mifbody.com/vbulletin/sho...ing-OE-Springs
Check this post specifically:
http://www.mifbody.com/vbulletin/sho...l=1#post816390
Last edited by Atrus_SS; 01-28-2014 at 07:57 AM.
01-28-2014, 05:49 PM
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Isn't 150lbs for the rear what the Strano springs are at? Front rate is low though compared to his. I wonder how much of a difference those 200lbs in the front make in handling.
Last edited by badformulaLS1; 01-28-2014 at 06:22 PM.