What Bump Stops For Rear Coilovers?
03-30-2014, 08:55 AM
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What Bump Stops For Rear Coilovers? I cut the factory bump stops to clear my wheels and am currently using poly bump stops on the shocks. Can I do something similar with Viking coilovers?
I have been looking into hydraulic bump stops and came across that Daystar has an adjustable bump stop similar to the hydraulic stops but uses poly bumpers of different firmness to adjust it.
Another thought would be to mount the bump stop where the factory coils are, bump stops for some Jeeps are long and I think that may be the lightest/cheapest option.
What are you using, or what do you think would be the best option?
I have been looking into hydraulic bump stops and came across that Daystar has an adjustable bump stop similar to the hydraulic stops but uses poly bumpers of different firmness to adjust it.
Another thought would be to mount the bump stop where the factory coils are, bump stops for some Jeeps are long and I think that may be the lightest/cheapest option.
What are you using, or what do you think would be the best option?
03-31-2014, 06:45 AM
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I just wanted to give you the part number if you decide to use the jeep bump stops!
Energy Suspension 99137R
I had to go to autozone to pick the up locally, but you can order them too!
You can also order them from autozone and the shipping will be free. It was at the store, at least.
Good luck!
Energy Suspension 99137R
I had to go to autozone to pick the up locally, but you can order them too!
You can also order them from autozone and the shipping will be free. It was at the store, at least.
Good luck!
03-31-2014, 08:10 AM
#4
For a coilover system and with how our brackets are designed, I'd recommend a factory style or Jeep setup. Shaft mounted bump stops wont work in our situation.
Our standard Viking setup is designed to land on the bump stop and have around 1/2" shaft remaining.
Since a double rod end shock is a racing oriented thing you can do it backwards as well. Choose your ride height, drop the car on the bump stops, measure center to center and pick a minimum shock length slightly longer than that measurement.
Our standard Viking setup is designed to land on the bump stop and have around 1/2" shaft remaining.
Since a double rod end shock is a racing oriented thing you can do it backwards as well. Choose your ride height, drop the car on the bump stops, measure center to center and pick a minimum shock length slightly longer than that measurement.
03-31-2014, 02:03 PM
#5
Since it sound like your going to do some fabrication, I'd either make a mount and weld it just inboard of the factory B.S. location for either a B.S. can or factory style B.S..
You might also want to look at the Ridetech rear coil over kit, I believe it has shaft mounted bump stops.
You might also want to look at the Ridetech rear coil over kit, I believe it has shaft mounted bump stops.
Last edited by 99Bluz28; 03-31-2014 at 02:12 PM.
04-02-2014, 08:52 AM
#6
I cut the factory bump stops to clear my wheels and am currently using poly bump stops on the shocks. Can I do something similar with Viking coilovers?
I have been looking into hydraulic bump stops and came across that Daystar has an adjustable bump stop similar to the hydraulic stops but uses poly bumpers of different firmness to adjust it.
Another thought would be to mount the bump stop where the factory coils are, bump stops for some Jeeps are long and I think that may be the lightest/cheapest option.
What are you using, or what do you think would be the best option?
I have been looking into hydraulic bump stops and came across that Daystar has an adjustable bump stop similar to the hydraulic stops but uses poly bumpers of different firmness to adjust it.
Another thought would be to mount the bump stop where the factory coils are, bump stops for some Jeeps are long and I think that may be the lightest/cheapest option.
What are you using, or what do you think would be the best option?
The Viking shocks will work great for you on this and as always I have the best deals!
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04-02-2014, 04:05 PM
#8
Only thing I will address is the fact that there are 100s of our customers out there with street driven and race cars that have no mods whatsoever to the upper mount. There are several layers of metal at that point plus the area in general has plenty of structural enhancements with the way the frame is formed.
04-05-2014, 08:02 AM
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I ended up using a factory foam bumpstop from a 2006 VW Beetle, it seemed to be the most logical and lightest choice. The shaft sizes are similar and I wanted something soft. I had poly bumpstops before and they were pretty harsh, but my car weighs in about 2900 lbs so hopefully the foam BS do the trick. If not I have more options.
For UMI your lower mounts for the coilover do work with the MWC rear, but they had to be bent a little bit to match the contour of the MWC axle. The coilovers did not clear the sway bar end links that came with my Hellwig adjustable rear sway bar. I ordered some 7/16" rod ends and hex turnbuckles and I'm keeping my fingers crossed that they will give me enough room. The Hellwig end links are about 2" wide and I could only get them to work on the softest setting on the sway bar with the coilovers in place. I also noticed that the 1/2" bolt for the lower coilover bracket is VERY close to the coilover body, I might be able to get a business card in between them. I'm planning on replacing the hex head bolt with a allen head bolt that's more low profile. Other than that it was a smooth install. I was also surprised that the coilovers are not assembled at all, but I did enjoy putting everything together myself.
For UMI your lower mounts for the coilover do work with the MWC rear, but they had to be bent a little bit to match the contour of the MWC axle. The coilovers did not clear the sway bar end links that came with my Hellwig adjustable rear sway bar. I ordered some 7/16" rod ends and hex turnbuckles and I'm keeping my fingers crossed that they will give me enough room. The Hellwig end links are about 2" wide and I could only get them to work on the softest setting on the sway bar with the coilovers in place. I also noticed that the 1/2" bolt for the lower coilover bracket is VERY close to the coilover body, I might be able to get a business card in between them. I'm planning on replacing the hex head bolt with a allen head bolt that's more low profile. Other than that it was a smooth install. I was also surprised that the coilovers are not assembled at all, but I did enjoy putting everything together myself.
04-05-2014, 08:05 AM
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No pics on the ground unfortunately, I'm waiting for some rod ends to come for the rear sway bar end links and I have some more tweaking to do on the front suspension. Next weekend it should be back on the ground and ready for the roads to get cleaned off, yes they are still salty 
04-06-2014, 08:31 PM
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It still wouldn't clear, I could have made them work but only on the softest sway bar setting. I'll post some pics of my solution when everything shows up. I tore the front edelbrock coilovers apart and cleaned up the threads and applied some anti seize so adjustments are much easier. Good news is we are suppose to get quite a bit of rain this week so hopefully by the weekend the roads will be salt free.
04-07-2014, 04:55 PM
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I shouldn't have to do that, it's just that the Hellwig end links are about 2" thick, probably a little more with the head of the bolt. The heim joint and the bolt head should be less than .75" thick and I should have plenty of room with that. I could have reused the Hellwig end links, but only on the softest sway bar setting and I currently like the middle setting and I want to keep that feature of the sway bar.
04-08-2014, 12:10 AM
#16
Only thing I will address is the fact that there are 100s of our customers out there with street driven and race cars that have no mods whatsoever to the upper mount. There are several layers of metal at that point plus the area in general has plenty of structural enhancements with the way the frame is formed.
OP Are you having issues because of the distance/proximity to the mounting brackets on the rearend? The LG setup has a 3/4" or so standoff spacer in that area. Im not familiar with the Hellwig rear bar
04-08-2014, 08:23 AM
#17
I haven't posted on here in a really long time, but I need to chime in about this because I don't want someone to damage their car or themselves. I plan to put the Viking coil-overs on my car also, but I live in Korea right now so it will have to wait for summer.
I am a GM chassis validation manager and have a lot of experience with loads collection. The vertical road loads are reacted by the shocks, springs and jounce bumper / stop. The combined loads from shocks and springs aren't that high which is why it has been working ok to mount rear coil-overs in a way that GM never intended. The loads from a jounce stop can be very high during an impact like a pothole. Therefore it is a bad idea to put the jounce bumper on the coil-over in the rear because those very high loads will be going into the body and the axle bracket. Neither of these were designed for those kind of loads. I wouldn't try it without reinforcing both of these.
Brian
I am a GM chassis validation manager and have a lot of experience with loads collection. The vertical road loads are reacted by the shocks, springs and jounce bumper / stop. The combined loads from shocks and springs aren't that high which is why it has been working ok to mount rear coil-overs in a way that GM never intended. The loads from a jounce stop can be very high during an impact like a pothole. Therefore it is a bad idea to put the jounce bumper on the coil-over in the rear because those very high loads will be going into the body and the axle bracket. Neither of these were designed for those kind of loads. I wouldn't try it without reinforcing both of these.
Brian
04-08-2014, 08:27 AM
#18
For UMI your lower mounts for the coilover do work with the MWC rear, but they had to be bent a little bit to match the contour of the MWC axle. The coilovers did not clear the sway bar end links that came with my Hellwig adjustable rear sway bar. I ordered some 7/16" rod ends and hex turnbuckles and I'm keeping my fingers crossed that they will give me enough room. The Hellwig end links are about 2" wide and I could only get them to work on the softest setting on the sway bar with the coilovers in place. I also noticed that the 1/2" bolt for the lower coilover bracket is VERY close to the coilover body, I might be able to get a business card in between them. I'm planning on replacing the hex head bolt with a allen head bolt that's more low profile. Other than that it was a smooth install. I was also surprised that the coilovers are not assembled at all, but I did enjoy putting everything together myself.
04-14-2014, 05:31 PM
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My new sway bar end links. I need to get some spacers so I can adjust the sway bar to the softest setting, but for now I will just leave it in the middle.
I got the alignment done on Friday night, but I was too busy to take it for a drive to test everything out. Was going to take it out today, but last night Wisconsin decided to gift us with almost 3" of snow and low 30* temps.
I got the alignment done on Friday night, but I was too busy to take it for a drive to test everything out. Was going to take it out today, but last night Wisconsin decided to gift us with almost 3" of snow and low 30* temps.
04-14-2014, 05:46 PM
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Also another question for UMI.....how did you get the test car so low? I have the coilovers turned down to the point that I can take the top coil spring retainer out when I jack the car up and it's still a little high for my taste. I am currently sitting at 27.25" at the center of the wheel well with 315/35/17s. I'm currently only showing about 30-40% of the shock shaft and I believe that Viking recommends that there be 60% of the shaft showing at ride height. I have to reread the instructions again, but I know that I don't have enough. I also need to make some limiting straps so I don't top the shocks out.
My next step is cutting the stock shock perches off the rear axle and installing some adjustable coilover brackets so I can get the shocks set up right.
Something like this:
My next step is cutting the stock shock perches off the rear axle and installing some adjustable coilover brackets so I can get the shocks set up right.
Something like this: