KingJacobo

I have a lowered, otherwise stock suspension 93k mi '99 Trans Am. Shocks and struts are original but not worn out. Would prefer to just upgrade those when they wear out.

I'm looking for something to improve handling and cornering as much as possible. I like to take corners on the street spirited (I realize F bodys aren't M3's) and would like to be able to have more fun on the every once in a blue moon mountain run. I'll build a monster motor eventually, trying to get it to handle half decent for now.

Critera:
-Easy on the budget. Budget is couple hundred bucks
-Best bang for the buck parts
-Car is my DD so nothing that will ride too harsh
-Improve handling/cornering!
-Wouldn't mind improved street grip, but handling is #1 priority with this set of mods


3 Piece subframe connectors?

sleepinghawk

I have nothing bad to say about the Bilsteins that my hawk has. When they wear out, I'll be buying them again. I did upgrade to the 32 front sway bar and 22 rear years ago when I first got it. I love the way it handles. I also take some daily curves also. I don't do the track thing, so it's a d/d as long as it does'nt rain or snow. I would suggest you call Sam Strano on here. I have done alot of searching and he knows what works and does'nt. When I upgrade to the front upper and lower it will be thru him. He can help you since your'e on a budget. I also have the sub frame connectors. First thing I bought.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Honestly if you'd like to improve handling, shocks should be priority. As far as what to do with a limited budget - Shocks/springs can be had somewhat cheap. Bilsteins are a great budget friendly shock.

After that, new sway bars front and rear and then 2 point subframe connectors. That quick and simple combo will be a great update to your Trans Am's handling.

JD_AMG

What lowering springs do you have? Not all springs are the same, and certainly not all are ideal for handling, even though they lower the car.
SFC's will do nothing for you, I have them (along with just about ever other suspension mod each done separately so I can tell you exactly what change each did.) These chassis are plenty stiff, SFC's will only band aid real unerlying issues like lack of shock dampening.
By FAR the best thing you can do is get good shocks. (GOOD shocks like bilstiens, konis, KWs, Penskie, not non-gas charged drag shocks like QA1, Strange, Afco, Viking, or autozone replacements like Monroe) Nothing else will come even close to comparing to the difference something like Koni SAs or better will do. You may think your stock shocks (DeCarbon shocks are the orange/black ones) are not "worn out" but you couldn't be more wrong at 93K miles + lowering springs. Even if by some miracle they were not, it would be totally irrelevant anyway because with 0 miles right out of the factory they have lackluster valving which leads to bad ride quality, and loose and floaty handling - but you may not notice because you have nothing to compare to. I replaced my "better" valved WS6 decarbon shocks (that i didn't think were bad because I had nothing to compare to at the time) with Koni SA's at just 40K miles and its was a total night and day difference, it was like driving a different car.
With your current budget you won't be able to afford a full set, Id suggest getting the rear pair and then save up for the front. Either that or getting a 35mm front swaybar now with the intention of getting a 22mm rear swaybar later down the road to match it.
Between shocks, springs and swaybars those will be the top 3 suspension pieces to achieve great handling (a watts link as well), everything else is pretty minor at best, and I wouldn't bother wasting money on any other suspension mods until you have good shocks, springs and swaybars first.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Best upgrade will be shocks. Koni STR.T or Bilsteins.

The factory springs are actually pretty good... do you know what lowering springs you have? Might be worthwhile to upgrade the shocks/springs together and then look at a sway bar package next.

MidnightDynamite

Figured I'd piggy back on this rather than make a new thread! What is the norm for suspension lowering? 1.25"? Trying to do a little of both worlds for suspension street/drag. What would you gentleman (and few ladies) recommend?

Guitar

iTrader: (9)

Depends on what you want to spend. Strano/BMR springs are the norm around here which are 1.25" I believe. If I was doing it over again I'd go with the Viking Coilovers all around and set it to whatever I wanted and have the adjustments for drag racing.

beaSSt

I second the Watts Link suggestion. I bought mine from Stranos. Sam posts here quite often.

A great mod and makes the car much more fun to drive in curves. Also gets rid of the panhard bar "hop to the right" that you get with the stock suspension when you go over a bump at speed.

Fairly easy to install as well.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

A watt's link is a great piece, but can be daunting to a driver without much experience in setting up a suspension system. As everyone has suggested, address your shocks first and foremost. You'd be amazed at how much the DeCarbons are lacking in performance.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

For being lowered, The first things I would recommend as accompanying mods would be an adjustable panhard bar and LCA relocation brackets, with tubular LCA's. These things alone will make a dramatic difference in the feel of the car and the traction. Next would be shocks such as Bilsteins or Koni Str.T's

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

Yeah, if you are in the $400 range a set of Koni STR.T's are a good start (they are roughly that delivered and I have them in stock currently). I prefer them to Bilstein as they offer better rebound damping and a lifetime warranty where SLP Bilstein's have but 90 days.

I absolutely would do nothing else without better shocks on the car first.

Corvett z07

iTrader: (2)

Got a chance to ride in a drag setup again, and it handles surprisingly almost on par with mine...

So my question to anyone would be on a scale of 1-20 rate decarbons (160k miles), Bilsteins (standard valved), Str.ts, and Koni SA (after you get them tuned). With 20 being top notch.

I'm thinking about saving up until tax returns and getting some Koni SA, currently have Str.ts that are still in packaging.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

The 160k mile decarbons would definitely be on the lower end as they have to be wore out so I would probably give them a 3-4 max. The Bilsteins and STR.Ts will be very similar to one another with the STR.Ts being slightly better so I would rate the Bilsteins at a 11-12 and the STR.Ts at a 13-14. The Koni SA are substantially better than the other options so I would rate them at a 17-18. This is just my personal opinion so I am sure other people will have differing opinions.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

I have BMR Springs, Koni SA Shocks, BMR Swaybars, UMI Panhard Bar with Roto Joints, UMI LCAs with Roto Joints, Founders LCA Relo brackets, UMI Boxed SFCs, and BMR TA and Relo Kit. Car handles like it is on rails. The steering improved. The car is flat in corners. It feels much lighter and "darts" now when I point it somewhere. And it hooks. I have 275 Nitto NT05s up front and 315 NT05Rs in the rear (which handle like the NT05 but flat out hook in a straight line). I have the torque arm and LCA mounts adjusted to hook without killing handling and the Konis adjusted for the spring rates.

And the best part? It doesn't rattle or squeak, and it actually rides better than it did on the stock suspension with decarbons.

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

Sam, this is not the full story from what I have been told by Bilstein. Their shocks have a lifetime warranty, like the Bilstein HDs:
http://cart.bilsteinus.com/search/mm.../drivetype=RWD

If SLP has a third party revalve Bilstein shocks, then the lifetime warranty is out, but if Bilstein does the revalving, that is different and there would be an additional stamping on the shock above the part number stamping.

http://www.bilsteinus.com/products/s...vice/warranty/

Are the SLP Bilsteins currently being revalved from what Bilstein ships? IF they are, my understanding is that it is not too significant a difference these days.

SLP says "It includes specially calibrated... shocks." But does that mean revolved? If so, who does their revalving?

http://www.slponline.com/category/Ca...1982-2002.html