Nick D

I plan on getting BMR SFC and was wondering if I should get the PHR also. What is it's function? Is it necessary if I don't plan on lowering the car (I scrape enough as it is).

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

The PHR (Panhard rod), is what keeps the rear end centered under the car. When lowering, an ADJUSTABLE PHR is REQUIRED. Some people have gotten away without one, but don't count on it.

TransAm52804

^ My rear-end is shifted to the driver's side by about an inch or less. Do you think I should go with the adj. PHR and you're saying that would fix it? I don't plan on lowering the car, but I do want my rear to be centered. I also think that's why my car pulls to the left (driver side) rather briskly.

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

It would allow you to adjust where the rear axle is located and center your axle. So, I would suggest an adjustable PHB for your car.

gettinthere

iTrader: (3)

Get one. They're relativley cheap and they work. Thier main purpose is to center the axle, like everyone else said.

Nick D

What about a non-adjustable PHR? If my rearend is centered do I need one? I like canyon-carving and need to know if this is a waste of $ for someone in my situation. I know they are cheap, but if I don't need to spend $100, I would rather invest that elsewhere, i.e, torque arm, shocks, etc. TIA.

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

As I said, for a lowered car, an adjustable PHR is needed. A non-adjustable would be completely pointless, because you need the adjustablilty to center the rear after lowering.

2w0s060

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TX_SS

iTrader: (4)

what else do i need to lower my car??? besides springs and adj PHR anything else???
i just want to LOWER MY CAR thatz it

Fulton 1

iTrader: (9)

Since this suspension does not utilize angled upper control arms (like the the live axle Mustangs for instance) or leaf springs there needs to be a structural member locating the axle during side loading. By side loading I mean any force that applied to the rear tire contact patch with direction perpendicular to the sidewall. In our case, this job falls to the PHR. Essentially, if you eliminated the PHR it would mean that your axle is (for all intents and purposes) free to slide out from under the car to one side or the other (think of an axle with the C-clip removed).

Since the PHR swings in an arc (like a pendulum) there is some side to side movement as the suspension goes up and down. The longer the PHR the less the side-side movement. When you lower the car its the same as pushing down on the suspension from the PHR's point of view and will result in its "pulling" the axle toward the pass. side a bit. Exactly how much is a factor of your particular car's tolerances, the amount of drop, etc. So, yes, an adjustable PHR is a very good idea when lowering. You'll most likely be able to get away without one initially unless maybe you're using wider rear tires or wheels with less positive offset than stock or both.

IMO, I'd look elsewhere than BMR for an adjustable PHR. Their center adjustable design is

sikws6

a buddy of mine just got an adj. panhard rod from BMR and the adjuster is not in the middle it's about 6 or 8 inches from one end.Maybe they just recently changed it Seems to be a nice piece IMO

Racehead

I would definitely get an adjustable to fix the centering problem you have, but it won't have any effect on your car pulling to the left. That problem has to be from another cause.

gettinthere

iTrader: (3)

You'll want LCA's too. Relocation brackets are optional but reccommended.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

I just got one from Spohn that is the same design, and it looks like a very sturdy piece. It takes the adjuster out of the middle (which is where the greatest bending moment is), and I like it. Yeah, it might not handle the abuse of road racing, but then again, I never do that kinda racing.