bleeding with Earl's SoloBleeders
12-17-2004, 06:50 PM
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bleeding with Earl's SoloBleeders Recently noticed how dark my brake fluid is (original fluid from '99, heh), so decided to take the plunge. First time I've done this, so I have a few questions. (Tried search and didn't find exactly how-to)...
I have two bottles of Valvoline Syn-Tech fluid, Earl's Solo Bleeders, some 3/8" vinyl tubing, and a small jug to catch the fluid.
Already know to raise the car onto jackstands with the tires removed, cap off MC and suck out old fluid with turkey baster. Fill to "Max" with new fluid, start bleeding at driver rear (then pass rear, pass front, and driver front).
First timer questions :
I guess the speed bleeders replace the factory ones ? Unscrew old/screw in new ? Will brake fluid come out or air get in ? Then attach the tubing to the other side of the bleeder and run it into the jug.
I'm guessing I crack open the new bleeder valve 1/4" turn - the spring loaded little valve thingie I'm guessing will hold pressure against the brake fluid until the pedal is pressed ? Then (hopefully ?) slowly push down brake pedal to the floor, the valve on the bleeder opens and fluid comes out, then when the pressure drops the bleeder valve closes again and you can raise the brake pedal. Repeat until clear fluid appears in the tubing, using caution to keep filling the MC with fluid and not let it get low, right ?
Am I correct in my assumption of how these things work ? There's a vague diagram on the box and no instructions online anywhere I can find...
Here's a pic of the solo-bleeders :
Thanks for the help.
Bad30th
I have two bottles of Valvoline Syn-Tech fluid, Earl's Solo Bleeders, some 3/8" vinyl tubing, and a small jug to catch the fluid.
Already know to raise the car onto jackstands with the tires removed, cap off MC and suck out old fluid with turkey baster. Fill to "Max" with new fluid, start bleeding at driver rear (then pass rear, pass front, and driver front).
First timer questions :
I guess the speed bleeders replace the factory ones ? Unscrew old/screw in new ? Will brake fluid come out or air get in ? Then attach the tubing to the other side of the bleeder and run it into the jug.
I'm guessing I crack open the new bleeder valve 1/4" turn - the spring loaded little valve thingie I'm guessing will hold pressure against the brake fluid until the pedal is pressed ? Then (hopefully ?) slowly push down brake pedal to the floor, the valve on the bleeder opens and fluid comes out, then when the pressure drops the bleeder valve closes again and you can raise the brake pedal. Repeat until clear fluid appears in the tubing, using caution to keep filling the MC with fluid and not let it get low, right ?
Am I correct in my assumption of how these things work ? There's a vague diagram on the box and no instructions online anywhere I can find...
Here's a pic of the solo-bleeders :
Thanks for the help.
Bad30th
Last edited by Bad30th; 12-17-2004 at 08:44 PM.
12-17-2004, 07:56 PM
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Also, found this and thought it might be helpful for anyone looking through this thread later :
Vehicle Preparation and Support
1. Loosen the lug nuts of the road wheels and place the entire vehicle on jackstands. Be sure that the car is firmly supported before going ANY further with this procedure!
2. Remove all road wheels.
3. Install one lug nut backward at each corner and tighten the nut against the rotor surface. Note that this step is to limit caliper flex that may distort pedal feel.
4. Open the hood and check the level of the brake fluid reservoir. Add fluid as necessary to ensure that the level is at the MAX marking of the reservoir. Do not let the reservoir become empty at any time during the bleeding process!
Bleeding Process
1. Begin at the corner furthest from the driver and proceed in order toward the driver. (Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.) While the actual sequence is not critical to the bleed performance it is easy to remember the sequence as the farthest to the closest. This will also allow the system to be bled in such a way as to minimize the amount of potential cross-contamination between the new and old fluid.
2. Locate the bleeder screw at the rear of the caliper body (or drum brake wheel cylinder.) Remove the rubber cap from the bleeder screw – and don’t lose it!
3. Place the box-end wrench over the bleeder screw. An offset wrench works best – since it allows the most room for movement.
4. Place one end of the clear plastic hose over the nipple of the bleeder screw.
5. Place the other end of the hose into the disposable bottle.
6. Place the bottle for waste fluid on top of the caliper body or drum assembly. Hold the bottle with one hand and grasp the wrench with the other hand.
7. Instruct the assistant to "apply." The assistant should pump the brake pedal three times, hold the pedal down firmly, and respond with "applied." Instruct the assistant not to release the brakes until told to do so.
8. Loosen the bleeder screw with a brief ¼ turn to release fluid into the waste line. The screw only needs to be open for one second or less. (The brake pedal will "fall" to the floor as the bleeder screw is opened. Instruct the assistant in advance not to release the brakes until instructed to do so.)
9. Close the bleeder screw by tightening it gently. Note that one does not need to pull on the wrench with ridiculous force. Usually just a quick tug will do.
10. Instruct the assistant to "release" the brakes. Note: do NOT release the brake pedal while the bleeder screw is open, as this will suck air back into the system!
11. The assistant should respond with "released."
12. Inspect the fluid within the waste line for air bubbles.
13. Continue the bleeding process (steps 11 through 16) until air bubbles are no longer present. Be sure to check the brake fluid level in the reservoir after bleeding each wheel! Add fluid as necessary to keep the level at the MAX marking. (Typically, one repeats this process 5-10 times per wheel when doing a ‘standard’ bleed.)
14. Move systematically toward the driver – right rear, left rear, right front, left front - repeating the bleeding process at each corner. Be sure to keep a watchful eye on the brake fluid reservior! Keep it full!
15. When all four corners have been bled, spray the bleeder screw (and any other parts that were moistened with spilled or dripped brake fluid) with brake cleaner and wipe dry with a clean rag. (Leaving the area clean and dry will make it easier to spot leaks through visual inspection later!) Try to avoid spraying the brake cleaner DIRECTLY on any parts made of rubber or plastic, as the cleaner can make these parts brittle after repeated exposure.
16. Test the brake pedal for a firm feel. (Bleeding the brakes will not necessarily cure a "soft" or "mushy" pedal – since pad taper and compliance elsewhere within the system can contribute to a soft pedal. But the pedal should not be any worse than it was prior to the bleeding procedure!)
17. Be sure to inspect the bleeder screws and other fittings for signs of leakage. Correct as necessary.
18. Properly dispose of the used waste fluid as you would dispose of used motor oil. Important: used brake fluid should NEVER be poured back into the master cylinder reservoir!
Vehicle Wrap-Up and Road Test
1. Re-install all four road wheels.
2. Raise the entire vehicle and remove jackstands. Torque the lug nuts to the manufacturer’s recommended limit. Re-install any hubcaps or wheel covers.
3. With the vehicle on level ground and with the car NOT running, apply and release the brake pedal several times until all clearances are taken up in the system. During this time, the brake pedal feel may improve slightly, but the brake pedal should be at least as firm as it was prior to the bleeding process.
4. Road test the vehicle to confirm proper function of the brakes. USE CAUTION THE FIRST TIME YOU DRIVE YOUR CAR AFTER MODIFICATION TO ENSURE THE PROPER FUNCTION OF ALL VEHICLE SYSTEMS!
=====
This was found here :
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...rakesright.htm
Thanks,
Rob (Bad30th)
Vehicle Preparation and Support
1. Loosen the lug nuts of the road wheels and place the entire vehicle on jackstands. Be sure that the car is firmly supported before going ANY further with this procedure!
2. Remove all road wheels.
3. Install one lug nut backward at each corner and tighten the nut against the rotor surface. Note that this step is to limit caliper flex that may distort pedal feel.
4. Open the hood and check the level of the brake fluid reservoir. Add fluid as necessary to ensure that the level is at the MAX marking of the reservoir. Do not let the reservoir become empty at any time during the bleeding process!
Bleeding Process
1. Begin at the corner furthest from the driver and proceed in order toward the driver. (Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.) While the actual sequence is not critical to the bleed performance it is easy to remember the sequence as the farthest to the closest. This will also allow the system to be bled in such a way as to minimize the amount of potential cross-contamination between the new and old fluid.
2. Locate the bleeder screw at the rear of the caliper body (or drum brake wheel cylinder.) Remove the rubber cap from the bleeder screw – and don’t lose it!
3. Place the box-end wrench over the bleeder screw. An offset wrench works best – since it allows the most room for movement.
4. Place one end of the clear plastic hose over the nipple of the bleeder screw.
5. Place the other end of the hose into the disposable bottle.
6. Place the bottle for waste fluid on top of the caliper body or drum assembly. Hold the bottle with one hand and grasp the wrench with the other hand.
7. Instruct the assistant to "apply." The assistant should pump the brake pedal three times, hold the pedal down firmly, and respond with "applied." Instruct the assistant not to release the brakes until told to do so.
8. Loosen the bleeder screw with a brief ¼ turn to release fluid into the waste line. The screw only needs to be open for one second or less. (The brake pedal will "fall" to the floor as the bleeder screw is opened. Instruct the assistant in advance not to release the brakes until instructed to do so.)
9. Close the bleeder screw by tightening it gently. Note that one does not need to pull on the wrench with ridiculous force. Usually just a quick tug will do.
10. Instruct the assistant to "release" the brakes. Note: do NOT release the brake pedal while the bleeder screw is open, as this will suck air back into the system!
11. The assistant should respond with "released."
12. Inspect the fluid within the waste line for air bubbles.
13. Continue the bleeding process (steps 11 through 16) until air bubbles are no longer present. Be sure to check the brake fluid level in the reservoir after bleeding each wheel! Add fluid as necessary to keep the level at the MAX marking. (Typically, one repeats this process 5-10 times per wheel when doing a ‘standard’ bleed.)
14. Move systematically toward the driver – right rear, left rear, right front, left front - repeating the bleeding process at each corner. Be sure to keep a watchful eye on the brake fluid reservior! Keep it full!
15. When all four corners have been bled, spray the bleeder screw (and any other parts that were moistened with spilled or dripped brake fluid) with brake cleaner and wipe dry with a clean rag. (Leaving the area clean and dry will make it easier to spot leaks through visual inspection later!) Try to avoid spraying the brake cleaner DIRECTLY on any parts made of rubber or plastic, as the cleaner can make these parts brittle after repeated exposure.
16. Test the brake pedal for a firm feel. (Bleeding the brakes will not necessarily cure a "soft" or "mushy" pedal – since pad taper and compliance elsewhere within the system can contribute to a soft pedal. But the pedal should not be any worse than it was prior to the bleeding procedure!)
17. Be sure to inspect the bleeder screws and other fittings for signs of leakage. Correct as necessary.
18. Properly dispose of the used waste fluid as you would dispose of used motor oil. Important: used brake fluid should NEVER be poured back into the master cylinder reservoir!
Vehicle Wrap-Up and Road Test
1. Re-install all four road wheels.
2. Raise the entire vehicle and remove jackstands. Torque the lug nuts to the manufacturer’s recommended limit. Re-install any hubcaps or wheel covers.
3. With the vehicle on level ground and with the car NOT running, apply and release the brake pedal several times until all clearances are taken up in the system. During this time, the brake pedal feel may improve slightly, but the brake pedal should be at least as firm as it was prior to the bleeding process.
4. Road test the vehicle to confirm proper function of the brakes. USE CAUTION THE FIRST TIME YOU DRIVE YOUR CAR AFTER MODIFICATION TO ENSURE THE PROPER FUNCTION OF ALL VEHICLE SYSTEMS!
=====
This was found here :
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...rakesright.htm
Thanks,
Rob (Bad30th)
12-18-2004, 07:56 PM
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I'm starting this project tomorrow (Sunday) morning. I'll snap some pics.
I got the speed bleeders from Thunder Racing :
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...p&vid=3&pcid=2 (Scroll down)...
The tubing that fits the bleeders I got at Home Depot, it's 3/8" vinyl tubing.
I'll make a new post when I get the pics uploaded tomorrow after bleeding the brakes.
Wish me luck !
Rob (Bad30th)
I got the speed bleeders from Thunder Racing :
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...p&vid=3&pcid=2 (Scroll down)...
The tubing that fits the bleeders I got at Home Depot, it's 3/8" vinyl tubing.
I'll make a new post when I get the pics uploaded tomorrow after bleeding the brakes.
Wish me luck !
Rob (Bad30th)
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12-19-2004, 09:06 AM
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Thanks again for the info and tip mitchntx. 
I'm sure there will be a little air get in when I swap the stock bleeders for the Earl's ones, but it should hopefully not be much if I can swap them quickly, and it should bleed right out.
Getting started in a few minutes, just mixing up my morning coffee and making sure I have everything to get this accomplished.
Rob (Bad30th)
I'm sure there will be a little air get in when I swap the stock bleeders for the Earl's ones, but it should hopefully not be much if I can swap them quickly, and it should bleed right out.
Getting started in a few minutes, just mixing up my morning coffee and making sure I have everything to get this accomplished.
Rob (Bad30th)
12-19-2004, 12:49 PM
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All done, piece of cake !
Nasty looking fluid out, Earl's SoloBleed bleeders and nice new clear Valvoline Syn-Power in.
Feels much better even just backing her out into the driveway for a quick wash. After she's all clean I'll go for a test drive - want to make sure no brake fluid residue/handprints on the paint.
Pics and how-to will be up by tomorrow night.
Cheers,
Rob (Bad30th)
Nasty looking fluid out, Earl's SoloBleed bleeders and nice new clear Valvoline Syn-Power in.
Feels much better even just backing her out into the driveway for a quick wash. After she's all clean I'll go for a test drive - want to make sure no brake fluid residue/handprints on the paint.
Pics and how-to will be up by tomorrow night.
Cheers,
Rob (Bad30th)
12-29-2004, 10:08 PM
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This might be a dumb question, but I figured I'd ask before I tackle this tomorrow. Is it necessary to remove all 4 wheels when flushing/bleeding the brakes, or can you go at it one at a time (my garage is currently a little cramped)? I assume removing all 4 is just a convenience if you're doing all 4 at once. Thanks!
12-30-2004, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by MrEddie
This might be a dumb question, but I figured I'd ask before I tackle this tomorrow. Is it necessary to remove all 4 wheels when flushing/bleeding the brakes, or can you go at it one at a time (my garage is currently a little cramped)? I assume removing all 4 is just a convenience if you're doing all 4 at once. Thanks!
Yes you can do 1 at a time.
