JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

With my sig, if my current stamped steel stock torque arm isn't bent, would I get much better traction by swapping it with a non-adjustable aftermarket torque arm? Would it be worthwhile to change it out? ... or would Nitto's (I now have GS-D3's) be a better investment? Oh yeah, I do have Spohn LCA's, Spohn Panhard rod, H/D Bilsteins x4, but, no subframe connectors, yet.

TransAm52804

I'd think that sticky tires would always give you better traction than any suspension/chassis piece would. But along with those tires, the torque arm would only aid in giving better traction IMO. I'd say do the tires first (even though I'm putting on my non-adjustable torque arm soon and don't plan on sticky tires for a long time).

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

I was sorta' leaning towards tires. Only thing is, will drag radials stick better than the GS-D3's on the street without heating them up? I've heard you really have to heat the #$%@ out of Nitto's to get good traction.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Yes, you would need to heat the Nittos to get really good traction, but just driving around heats them up pretty well. IMO, they would always provide better traction than your GS-D3s...they use a softer compound. I've read too many times where people claim the D3s are slicks with grooves cut in them to expel water, but that is complete BS. No slick would last that long because of the soft compound.

Now that I'm done ranting, I'd go with the sticky tires. The only thing that is keeping me from getting some is the fact that my stock rear lives behind an M6 with a sticky clutch...therefore, I went with the torque arm first. I'm hoping it hooks pretty well when I get the rear replaced.

Poik

I just replaced my Eagle F1s with Nitto 555R. Woooorlds apart. Huge difference in traction. After driving around for about 15 minutes, I can floor it in first and not even break the tires lose! Before I could floor it any time in 1st or 2nd and my Eagle F1 315s would just light up.

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

A4 here. When it comes to street tires, I went from stock GSC's > to HP Ultra +'s > to Khumo 255's (because they were the widest tire in a 16") and then I went to what I have now ... GS-D3's. The F1 GS-D3's were great until I added a Jantzer TB, LS6 intake, MAC mid's w/ ORY, and tuning. Then, even THEY started with the 'spin city' act. In 2nd, the stall converter mutilates the tires and I can't stop spinning.

I'll try some Nitto 245's and I think they'll give me what I need for traction. Anyone think it's foolish for me to do the Extreme 555's? Mine's mostly for the street and will only see the track 3-4 times a year. I'd be interested in some experienced opinions. Thanks for taking time to read my post.

WILWAXU

iTrader: (6)

A4 car? No doubt, TIRES.

my car went 10.9's with the stocker.

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

Man, that's faaaast. About what was it dyno'ing then? For a baby cam, my car seems pretty fast ... if I could just get a little traction. With Nitto's, surely I'll at least break an 11.99 ... at least that's what I'm hoping for. Whatcha' think?

PewterWSSicc

Second thing i bought on my T56 car was the nittos. Best thing i could have bought for the car. I do a bit of street racing and no you dont have to heat them to see a difference(well not a burnout). Even at night the difference is evident. Racing other cars from 1st on the freeway, i will get about a 1-2 car jump during the 1st-2nd shift. When going from 2nd we are dead even. The first time you drive with them, you will wonder how they didnt come stock on the car. They also made my very low modded car beat my friends full-bolt-on car in the quarter mile. anyway, do the Nittos, i guarantee you will not regret it. If you do, one piece of advice at the track, dont do a brake stand. All they need is a nice little burnout, and then they'll hook nice. Mine after a little burnout would hook-up in the summer launching at 3000rpms, and just dumping the clutch. get them and enjoy them.

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

Well, I sure do appreciate all the information here. It's got me wondering why I've spent too much money on tires when I could have bought 3 complete sets of Nitto's for the same price. man, have I really made mistakes. Oh well, if I ever own another car, I'll know where to start and finish with modifications, i.e., verter, tires, exhaust, intake, gears, H/C ... all in that order.


Anyone else ran similar street tires and switched to Nitto's who saw a major difference with the 245's?

WILWAXU

iTrader: (6)

BTW.. I recommend at least MT ET Street Drag Radials. Pick up a cheap pair of 16" rims.

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

MT ET Streets, huh? Think they'd be all-around better than Nitto's for my daily driver? The problem I've seen with the Nitto's is the width limitation with my 16" stock wheels. I think M/T makes pretty wide tires, so, I may go that route ... would I be better off?

trigger1

iTrader: (28)

E/T radials on a daily driver? I would say stick with the nitto idea if this car is a true Daily driver. Then pick up a seperate set of rims to mount something like an e/t street or radial on.

WILWAXU

iTrader: (6)

MT ET Street Drag Radials on seperate rims. They are not meant for wet weather

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

OK ... here's what I'm doing ... M/T ET Streets on separate rims for the track and Nitto 245's for the street. Thanks for the suggestions. I think your advice has helped me decide what's best for any given situation. Thanks a lot.

PewterWSSicc

Dont worry you wont be dissapointed with either one of those tires. You will find very quickly that actually getting your car to hook up is a lot more fun than spinning the tires. And both of those tires hook-up really well. My friend had the nittos on his trans am doing about 450rwhp and they still hooked up good for him. Good luck with them and have lots of fun.

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

But, were they 245's on stock rims? That's my restriction right now for what I'll be driving around town.

Dal1as

Except on a damp road or when it's raining. DR's will offer better traction but just don't drive in a decent rainstorm. I know of 2 cases here in MD where people with DR's were just cruising along in the rain, under the speed limit and there rear end hydroplaned causing them to go sideways and wreck. I'd say if you don't drive in the rain then get the DR's. If you do drive in the rain be very careful.

As for the claim D3's are like slicks. They are talking about the contact patch not the compound. If you look at a D3, it's basically a cylinder with grooves cut in it. No variation in the height of the tread at all. The compound is softer than your normal tire but not as soft as a DR or slick. Actually the DR's wear rather quick. They just happen to have a very deep tread pattern.

PewterWSSicc

As Dal1as said, try not to use the Nittos even in the rain. And if you have to, dont do any kind of accelerating around even the smallest of turns and becareful of the cold. Mine lost control going on the on-ramp on the freeway. It was relly cold and i drove through a tiny bit of water from the sprinklers about 100ft back. I took the turn in third and accelerated out of it, then it just pitched sideways and went off the road. When the cold and rain are involved you gotta be real careful, try and just coast through the turns, mgiht not be bad in fourth though, since not much torque. But you do have to be careful.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

I found the GS-D3s a big step up from the F1s. I have
never driven drag radials myself but ridden in a
Nitto-shoed car and it seemed like it was "greasy"
and hooked no better. But JEB, best consider that the
monsoon season is right around the corner down here
and no drag radial will touch the GS-D3s in the wet.