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HELP!! Installing rotors, rotor too thick for caliper!
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HELP!! Installing rotors, rotor too thick for caliper!
Okay, maybe i'm just being stupid, but I'm installing a set of rotors and pads. Took the caliper off the rotor, replaced the pads. (making damn sure I was replacing like pads) pushed the caliper piston in using a C-clamp. Now, i'm trying to put the caliper back on the car, but it seems the rotor is too thick to fit between the new outside pad and the inner caliper housing. What the hell is going on? the pads are IDENTICAL except for thickness. What am I doing wrong? Can I just use the old outer pad, and new inner (piston) pad? Here's a picture:
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MIght put the clamp to it again and let it settle for a
bit; a slight residual pressure might let the piston come
back out enough to bind you up. Of course if the pads'
backing plates are dead back against the housing, this
is not the answer.
I've had to apply the dead-blow mallet to stubborn
calipers before. If you can get it on, just a little, then
you can "convince" it the rest of the way. You might
even want to chamfer the leading corners just a hair
to let it get on there, prior to persuasion.
Note that violence is probably not recommended; it
just happens to work for me.
bit; a slight residual pressure might let the piston come
back out enough to bind you up. Of course if the pads'
backing plates are dead back against the housing, this
is not the answer.
I've had to apply the dead-blow mallet to stubborn
calipers before. If you can get it on, just a little, then
you can "convince" it the rest of the way. You might
even want to chamfer the leading corners just a hair
to let it get on there, prior to persuasion.
Note that violence is probably not recommended; it
just happens to work for me.
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well you see the problem is not the piston-side pad, that pad is pushed all the way in, the metal of the caliper hits it before the pad does. The distance between the surface of the outside pad, and the inside metal of the caliper is the problem. I think it's either:
1. the rotor is too thick (the stock rotor that I just took off is just as thick)
2. the new pad is too thick, (wierd?)
1. the rotor is too thick (the stock rotor that I just took off is just as thick)
2. the new pad is too thick, (wierd?)
#4
dont force it on,if your rotor and pad bind then they wont "break in "properly.try intalling the caliper bracket on first,then the pads,then the caliper itself.see if that works.if not then you may have the wrong pads(you said the rotor was the same thickness as the one you took off then they should be correct)
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I just did this last week with my new R1 Concepts rotors identical to yours. I had no problems with them. Just bolt up the caliper bracket then mount the pads on the bracket as close to the rotor as possible. After using your c-clamp on the piston, hold the pads to the sides of the rotor with one hand and use the other hand to slide the caliper on. This is the method I used and everything went fine. I don't think I even had to depress the piston fully because I did it with my hands since I didn't have a c-clamp. I know I didn't fully depress it with my hands. You also might want to make sure that the rotor is on as far as it will go. If not, the inner pad will fit perfectly in the caliper bracket and the outer pad will be pushed outward by the rotor causing the caliper not to fit over the pads.
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OK, found the problem, the upper caliper slide pin's dust boot had a small tear in it, causing all it's grease to leak out, so it seized. I had to latch a vice-grip on it and pound it out with a hammer. I cleaned it off using a wire wheel on my grinder, then lubed it, and slid it back in. I gotta replace that boot when I get a chance. The slide pins allow the caliper to move inward/outward in relation to the rotor. When the top one froze up and I tried to put new pads in the caliper, the distance between the caliper and rotor changed, but the slide pin wouldn't slide, causing the caliper to bind on the rotor. So, make sure you check them!
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OK, found the problem, the upper caliper slide pin's dust boot had a small tear in it, causing all it's grease to leak out, so it seized. I had to latch a vice-grip on it and pound it out with a hammer. I cleaned it off using a wire wheel on my grinder, then lubed it, and slid it back in. I gotta replace that boot when I get a chance. The slide pins allow the caliper to move inward/outward in relation to the rotor. When the top one froze up and I tried to put new pads in the caliper, the distance between the caliper and rotor changed, but the slide pin wouldn't slide, causing the caliper to bind on the rotor. So, make sure you check them!
I had the same problem and it took digging this post up from its grave to help me fix mine, LOL! Gotta love the search tool
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I had a seized caliper guide pin bolt as well. Instead of trying to re-use a comprised brake part I replaced the caliper bracket as well as the guide pins. I strongly recommend you do the same because there is a risk that the ID of the caliper bracket which contains the caliper guide pin is all gulled up and under load, it may not let the pin slide in and out freely.
BTW, you can get boots and pins from autozone. I'd avoid buying any re-manufactured brake parts, (too many horror stores to list, including one of my own). Instead go to the dealer or GM parts direct and order up a replacement bracket.
BTW, you can get boots and pins from autozone. I'd avoid buying any re-manufactured brake parts, (too many horror stores to list, including one of my own). Instead go to the dealer or GM parts direct and order up a replacement bracket.