hehe :-D 
WS6 Handling
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 809
Likes: 0
From: chicago burbs
WS6 Handling I am curious, what suspension modifications and handling modifications does a WS6 have over a standard trans am, , for instance, if i wanted to give my standard trans am the same suspension modifications what woudl i ahve to do, besides the cleary obvious ws6 hood/ram air box, and the 17 in tires.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 611
Likes: 0
From: Fairfield, CA
It depends on the year, early models had more than later models. But expect different springs and shocks (1LE & DeCarbons) and a bigger front sway bar 32mm v. ~30mm??? for regular T/A. There is info out there, a search should turn it up.
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 809
Likes: 0
From: chicago burbs
i tried looking but i coudlnt get the search terms right?i coudlnt bring anything really up otherwise generalized handing and perfomrnace upgrade using the ram air and 17in tires as examples, thanks fr the reply, adn this woudl be a mid model 2000
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,132
Likes: 0
From: Grand Rapids, Michigan
I'm not really shure what they changed suspension wise, but I think it handles like crap in the turns, but it seems to do pretty good for drag racing due to it being pretty soft. IMO
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 809
Likes: 0
From: chicago burbs
hmm, yeah the turns are what i want to imrove, it can do wavy roads well, but it cant do 90's ar any speed avove 35 or so noy...that i ever try to turn at 50, no not me...NEVER!...but tcs does help in turning at speeds
Don't look at replicating the WS6 stock setup. Good set of shocks, stiff set of swaybars, and stiff set of aftermarket springs for the curvy stuff.
Shocks, bilsteins on a budget, Koni single adjustable more expensive, Koni double adjustable if money is no object.
Swaybars, a good hollow 35mm front bar is unarguably the best for curvy stuff, rear bar stiffness is more of a tossup depending on the vehicle usage in what kind of balance you prefer. The stiffer the rear bar, the greater the tendency to oversteer. Some stick with the stock 19mm bar, some go all the way to a 25mm rear bar. Most use a 21-22mm rear bar.
Springs. Here it's a matter of how aggressive you want your setup to be. If it's completely street dedicated and you want to maintain as much of the original street manners as possible (which aren't exactly comfy to begin with), the stock springs will still serve well with a good set of shocks and swaybars (I'm still running stock springs, but that'll change this year). The Koni's can help with ride height in the front (there are two positions for the spring perch), and removal of the rubber spring isolator can drop the rear for an over .5-.75" drop. More than that pretty much requires aftermarket springs.
Shocks, bilsteins on a budget, Koni single adjustable more expensive, Koni double adjustable if money is no object.
Swaybars, a good hollow 35mm front bar is unarguably the best for curvy stuff, rear bar stiffness is more of a tossup depending on the vehicle usage in what kind of balance you prefer. The stiffer the rear bar, the greater the tendency to oversteer. Some stick with the stock 19mm bar, some go all the way to a 25mm rear bar. Most use a 21-22mm rear bar.
Springs. Here it's a matter of how aggressive you want your setup to be. If it's completely street dedicated and you want to maintain as much of the original street manners as possible (which aren't exactly comfy to begin with), the stock springs will still serve well with a good set of shocks and swaybars (I'm still running stock springs, but that'll change this year). The Koni's can help with ride height in the front (there are two positions for the spring perch), and removal of the rubber spring isolator can drop the rear for an over .5-.75" drop. More than that pretty much requires aftermarket springs.
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Topdon ONE vs. Artidiag 800 BT2: Which is the Diagnostic Tablet For You?
Pouria Savadkouei
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Yeah, the later 98-02 WS6's mainly had the 17's and a 32mm front bar compared to the 30mm of the regular TA. Same everything else.
Shocks are the number one thing.
Here's a quote from another thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/326868-need-some-advice.html
If you need more info, let me know.
Shocks are the number one thing.
Here's a quote from another thread:
You have to think of the suspension as a whole. All the parts work together, so you have to plan things out in advance to make sure they will work nicely together. Just like matching a cam to the stall speed to the rear gear ratio. If everything works together, performance will be optimized. If one poorly choosen part is in the mix, it will not perforn at it's peak.
Some Bilstein shocks will smooth out the ride. On stock springs they will give you a cadillac ride. But who want's that, right? They will also help control the floaty body motions that the stock shocks can't control. So shocks will make the biggest changes, but don't get some cheap, crappy ones. Stick with Bilstein or the Koni SA's.
Stiffer springs will up the performance level again. The car will still ride better than the original suspension, but with less nose dive and better turn in.
Next, I would have to say a bigger front bar, like a solid 35mm and a performance alignment. Adding some negative camber to the front tires will help them stick in corners.
There is a lot more involved, like ride height and other things that need to be worked out in advance. It can cost some big money, so set up a budget to make sure you can cover all the stuff you will need.
Also, stickier tires can make a big difference in braking and cornering.
Some Bilstein shocks will smooth out the ride. On stock springs they will give you a cadillac ride. But who want's that, right? They will also help control the floaty body motions that the stock shocks can't control. So shocks will make the biggest changes, but don't get some cheap, crappy ones. Stick with Bilstein or the Koni SA's.
Stiffer springs will up the performance level again. The car will still ride better than the original suspension, but with less nose dive and better turn in.
Next, I would have to say a bigger front bar, like a solid 35mm and a performance alignment. Adding some negative camber to the front tires will help them stick in corners.
There is a lot more involved, like ride height and other things that need to be worked out in advance. It can cost some big money, so set up a budget to make sure you can cover all the stuff you will need.
Also, stickier tires can make a big difference in braking and cornering.
If you need more info, let me know.
