SS braided brake lines - improve pedal feel?
#2
Originally Posted by ArcticZ28
Anyone who has em chime in. I'm looking to stiffen up the feel of the brakes and make the pedal feel more responsive.
#3
Originally Posted by ArcticZ28
Anyone who has em chime in. I'm looking to stiffen up the feel of the brakes and make the pedal feel more responsive.
#4
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Cut open an OE brake line ... you will see a steel braided liner.
The jury is still out, as far as I'm concerned. I think the stiffer, better feel under the pedal is from the system flush and typical brake fluid upgrade that goes along with it, more than and flex or expansion the OE line sees.
The jury is still out, as far as I'm concerned. I think the stiffer, better feel under the pedal is from the system flush and typical brake fluid upgrade that goes along with it, more than and flex or expansion the OE line sees.
#5
Originally Posted by mitchntx
Cut open an OE brake line ... you will see a steel braided liner.
The jury is still out, as far as I'm concerned. I think the stiffer, better feel under the pedal is from the system flush and typical brake fluid upgrade that goes along with it, more than and flex or expansion the OE line sees.
The jury is still out, as far as I'm concerned. I think the stiffer, better feel under the pedal is from the system flush and typical brake fluid upgrade that goes along with it, more than and flex or expansion the OE line sees.
That is correct, but there are other parts of the stainless steel lines that make them far superior. When you get a good set, you will get a Teflon inner part which also resists expansion. Here is a link that has additional information about this type of brake line. http://www.precisionbrakescompany.com/brake-hoses.html
The brakes are one of the most important systems in a car, so why not have the best available parts throughout.
#6
That's basically what I'm debating, whether a flush and fluid upgrade would be fine or if I should upgrade the lines as well. I'm really not looking to replace the rotors/pads/calipers at this time so just looking for a cheaper alternative in the meantime.
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Its good for keeping my eggs from sticking to the skillet, but how does teflon resist hose expansion? I thought that ss lines were developed in order to shield high pressure hoses from external damage.
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Originally Posted by ArcticZ28
Anyone who has em chime in. I'm looking to stiffen up the feel of the brakes and make the pedal feel more responsive.
I take my car road coarses and so I added the SS lines. All I can say is the pedal is rock hard now, no more mushyness. It's not a daily driver so I somewhat miss the feeling when in any other car.
Having taken my car to road coarses, I bleed the brakes frequently. With the stock rubber lines on, there was always a "mushy" feeling even right after changing the fluid. With the SS lines on, I get in and the it's like you can almost feel the pads hit the rotors- it's that solid. Nice comfortable feeling.
As I said, I was thinking about changing out my stock ones on the GXP just so I can get the better feel. Don't get me wrong, the GXP is good, just not great.
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Oh, and the teflon is to help with the application and release of the brake pad. It's supposed to reduce friction (surprise) of the fluid to the wall of the brake hose. This friction actually causes some of the delay between the application of the brake pedal to the pads engaging the rotors. Ditto the release of the brakes. Of course, we're talking milliseconds so it's not really noticable, but that's the purpose.
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A recent 5-year government study found that Teflon is a significant cancer risk. Dupont, the major manufacturor, has complied with a government request to stop its manufacture. (This was in the press last week)
Unfortunatley, currently there is no viable Teflon substitute that has similar charateristics. For now, your choice is caliper cancer or a mushy brake - BOTH significant health risks!
Additional suggestion: Toss you non-stick pans - IMMEDIATELY!
Unfortunatley, currently there is no viable Teflon substitute that has similar charateristics. For now, your choice is caliper cancer or a mushy brake - BOTH significant health risks!
Additional suggestion: Toss you non-stick pans - IMMEDIATELY!
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teflon tubing is kinda like a poly tube flexible yet rigid. It is a liner (not lining) liner is a tube (lining is a coating) simpleton break down. any how between that an the SS jacket leads to a rigid (sort of) hose. And if you cut open a factory line it's braded but it's like thread stretchy think of a Bias Ply tire compared to a Steel Belted Radial.
#18
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Cut open an OE brake hose and you will find a SS cord. It's just wrapped in a "rubber" coating to keep sand and grit from getting in the braid and turning it into sandpaper on the inner liner.
The firmer pedal feel is from a good brake fluid flush and an upgraded brake fluid (typiaclly). I ran my '98 TA for years on road courses and I couldn't feel any difference when I changed to Earl's lines.
On my CMC road race car, I bought Goodrich banjo fittings that converted the line to -3AN and bought ready made lines. I then installed a -3AN to flared bulkhead connectore and went through the fender well. I then re-plumbed the brake line all teh way to the master cylinder, getting the brake lines out of the K-Member.
Now, when I drop the motor out the bottom, I don't have to breech the brake system ... Castrol SRF is EXPENSIVE! Just hang the calipers on the body, and drop the K.
The firmer pedal feel is from a good brake fluid flush and an upgraded brake fluid (typiaclly). I ran my '98 TA for years on road courses and I couldn't feel any difference when I changed to Earl's lines.
On my CMC road race car, I bought Goodrich banjo fittings that converted the line to -3AN and bought ready made lines. I then installed a -3AN to flared bulkhead connectore and went through the fender well. I then re-plumbed the brake line all teh way to the master cylinder, getting the brake lines out of the K-Member.
Now, when I drop the motor out the bottom, I don't have to breech the brake system ... Castrol SRF is EXPENSIVE! Just hang the calipers on the body, and drop the K.
#20
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I use Castrol SRF ...
But there is ATE Super Blue, Motul ...
And the leak many get at the caliper is because those washers are not washers ... they are crush seals. and like a gasket, they should be replaced.
And get good ones made from copper. the aluminum ones sent with most kits take too much torque to seal well. Pulling the threads out of a cast aluminum caliper is not a good thing.
As far as torque on the banjo bolt, I snug the bolts and then pressurize the system. I then tighten till they stop leaking.
But there is ATE Super Blue, Motul ...
And the leak many get at the caliper is because those washers are not washers ... they are crush seals. and like a gasket, they should be replaced.
And get good ones made from copper. the aluminum ones sent with most kits take too much torque to seal well. Pulling the threads out of a cast aluminum caliper is not a good thing.
As far as torque on the banjo bolt, I snug the bolts and then pressurize the system. I then tighten till they stop leaking.