I just got done installing my torque arm and Trans Bushing.
But I cant seem to get the loop between my exhaust "I" pipe and the drive
shaft. I had the rear jacked up on stands, I tried moving the rear
up & down with a floor jack but could not get it up and around.
Maybe I was just tired Any hints?
I really dont want to take the drive shaft or "I" pipe out.
Oh, I do have a magna flow cat-back so the pipe is slighly bigger.

 

Anybody?

 

bump^^

 

I know it went in easy for me, but when my mechanic was
trying to reinstall it after he put in my converter he couldn't
get it to go. I remember it didn't look right so I flipped it
around and it fit right up. So try the alternative orientations
of the loop and base (one side hugs the tunnel wall, can't
remember now, which) and I bet one combo works.

 

Thanks, I will try again tonight. I was trying to put is in like the pic shows on
the instructions. Looked like it was the easiest install

 

Tried to install my lakewood loop last night and ran into
a lot of clearance issues. No matter what way I tried to
shimmy the pieces in, they would either rub against the
tunnel, y-pipe or torque arm and not go all the way over
to the other side.

Stock torque arm, TSP ORY, stock steel drive shaft.

I think that the exhaust shop tucked my y-pipe up too
high (for good ground clearance) but I'm not sure that's
the only problem.

 

The MWC driveshaft loops do not have this issue and will work with pretty much any setup.

 

^Well that's great, but I'm not buying another drive shaft loop haha.

Also, it appears that your loop requires removing the drive shaft
while a lot of members have been able to bolt in the lakewood
without having to do so.

Guess I'll take it to the muffler shop, they might have better luck
using a lift compared to me on jack stands.

 

My Spohn DSL (same as lakewood I believe) was a pain to originally get in. I had to step away, sit down, have a beer, then give it another try. It was a puzzle, and I ended up having to slightly persuade it with a rubber mallet at one point. This was with the stock driveshaft, T/A, and hooker I-pipe.

Good luck. If nothing else its pretty easy to move the front of the T/A for a little extra room.

 

Thanks. Yeah, I've noticed a recurring theme with these cars "easy
bolt in 15 - 30 minutes!!"= hours of struggling sometimes with success
after modifying parts/cutting the hell out of yourself etc haha. It's too
difficult to try and maneuver underneath on jack stands at my parkade,
+ getting the evil eye from the resident manager.

Muffler shop gets to play around with it tomorrow

 

O man that driveshaft

 

You can easily remove the driveshaft to do the install, and you don't have to fight the loop to install it. We can no doubt do a complete driveshaft r&r and install the loop within 30 minutes, and no struggles.

 

that is the best fitting DS loop I have seen .

 

Muffler shop was able to install my lakewood drive shaft loop
on the lift yesterday. However, in order to do so they had to
cut the top loop and weld it back together. He laid some thick
welds on it so I'm hoping it hasn't affected the integrity too
much.

The problem was a lack of clearance between the stock torque
arm and the y pipe/drive shaft. Good to hear I wasn't the only
one who couldn't install it without modifying!

He said that he could've removed the torque arm, but that would
require supporting the body on a post style lift. The shop only had
drive on lift's. Also, I'd be concerned about vibrations and clunking
if the clearance was that minimal. No noise at any rpm/speed so
far with the lakewood installed.

 

That is actually the 1st design we had, the one we sell now has even more clearance on the passenger side mount. This loop woks with anyone's torque arm, anyone's exhaust, and driveshafts up to 4"