"Seasoning" new rotors...
03-06-2006, 03:26 PM
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"Seasoning" new rotors... Has anyone heard of properly breaking in or "seasoning" new rotors and pads? I did a search, but I did not get any results. Does this procedure actually exist or is it a bunch of BS?
03-06-2006, 06:46 PM
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sure, usually the break in procedure is included with new pads & rotors, I cant remember what mine said exactly but I did a few slow brakes first going from 20-0, then I steped it up 60-0 braking a little more agressivly, I did this atleast 6 times then I did two runs from 100-0 just to be on the safe side since im running hawk HP+ pads.
03-06-2006, 08:02 PM
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Definitely not BS.
Here's tyre rack's link:
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=85
It usually depends on what type of rotor pad combo, but generally they're the same with a few exceptions.
I would search for the one I have posted, but am pressed for time at the moment.
Here's tyre rack's link:
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=85
It usually depends on what type of rotor pad combo, but generally they're the same with a few exceptions.
I would search for the one I have posted, but am pressed for time at the moment.
03-06-2006, 10:16 PM
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Here is some good brake tech/info:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/te...e_papers.shtml
Here is a specific article on Pad/Rotor bed-in:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...contents.shtml
The bedding procedure described there is more aggressive than what Hawk suggests. Basically, follow the manufaturers guidelines.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/te...e_papers.shtml
Here is a specific article on Pad/Rotor bed-in:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...contents.shtml
The bedding procedure described there is more aggressive than what Hawk suggests. Basically, follow the manufaturers guidelines.
03-07-2006, 09:41 AM
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now im wondering they say to 1st do the bedding in process, but what if u live in a back road area and the only place for 60-10mph runs is like 5 miles away how do u bed them in right from new properly then
03-07-2006, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by z_speedfreak
sure, usually the break in procedure is included with new pads & rotors, I cant remember what mine said exactly but I did a few slow brakes first going from 20-0, then I steped it up 60-0 braking a little more agressivly, I did this atleast 6 times then I did two runs from 100-0 just to be on the safe side since im running hawk HP+ pads.
By the way, I'm going with Sure Stop cross drilled and slotted rotors on the rear and Hawk HPS pads on all four corners as well as Earl's ss brake lines. I already have have slotted only rotors on the front that have been working out just great for me.
03-07-2006, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Foxxton
Definitely not BS.
Here's tyre rack's link:
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=85
It usually depends on what type of rotor pad combo, but generally they're the same with a few exceptions.
I would search for the one I have posted, but am pressed for time at the moment.
Here's tyre rack's link:
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=85
It usually depends on what type of rotor pad combo, but generally they're the same with a few exceptions.
I would search for the one I have posted, but am pressed for time at the moment.
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03-07-2006, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by rgaynor85
now im wondering they say to 1st do the bedding in process, but what if u live in a back road area and the only place for 60-10mph runs is like 5 miles away how do u bed them in right from new properly then
Last edited by bluey2kz28; 03-07-2006 at 12:38 PM.
03-07-2006, 02:22 PM
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Reading this link - http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedintheory.shtml made me wonder if our stock rotors aren't warping as much or as easily as I was previously led to beleive from reading this forum and feeling judder/vibration under braking on my own car.
(bolding added by me)
On my own car, I've had maybe 2 "panic stops" in the 6100 miles I've driven it (bought brand new with 9 miles, off the truck, in June of 02). Both were slow speed. One was in a parking lot, and the other was at a traffic light after just starting to move from a red-to-green light change. It was enough to cause the ABS light to come on and I could feel it skid a little, but that's it. And I have a pretty bad braking vibration. I assumed it was hyper-weak rotors that got warped ridiculously quickly, but now I'm left wondering if that's not actually the case afterall....
As stated above, the objective of the bed-in process is to deposit an even layer of brake pad material, or transfer layer , on the rubbing surface of the rotor disc. Note the emphasis on the word even, as uneven pad deposits on the rotor face are the number one, and almost exclusive cause of brake judder or vibration.
Let's say that again, just so there is no misunderstanding. Uneven pad deposits on the rotor face are the number one, and almost exclusive cause of brake judder or vibration.
It only takes a small amount of thickness variation, or TV, in the transfer layer (we're only talking a few ten thousandths of an inch here) to initiate brake vibration. While the impact of an uneven transfer layer is almost imperceptible at first, as the pad starts riding the high and low spots, more and more TV will be naturally generated until the vibration is much more evident. With prolonged exposure, the high spots can become hot spots and can actually change the metallurgy of the rotor in those areas, creating “hard” spots in the rotor face that are virtually impossible to remove.
Let's say that again, just so there is no misunderstanding. Uneven pad deposits on the rotor face are the number one, and almost exclusive cause of brake judder or vibration.
It only takes a small amount of thickness variation, or TV, in the transfer layer (we're only talking a few ten thousandths of an inch here) to initiate brake vibration. While the impact of an uneven transfer layer is almost imperceptible at first, as the pad starts riding the high and low spots, more and more TV will be naturally generated until the vibration is much more evident. With prolonged exposure, the high spots can become hot spots and can actually change the metallurgy of the rotor in those areas, creating “hard” spots in the rotor face that are virtually impossible to remove.
On my own car, I've had maybe 2 "panic stops" in the 6100 miles I've driven it (bought brand new with 9 miles, off the truck, in June of 02). Both were slow speed. One was in a parking lot, and the other was at a traffic light after just starting to move from a red-to-green light change. It was enough to cause the ABS light to come on and I could feel it skid a little, but that's it. And I have a pretty bad braking vibration. I assumed it was hyper-weak rotors that got warped ridiculously quickly, but now I'm left wondering if that's not actually the case afterall....
03-07-2006, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by HPP
Reading this link - http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedintheory.shtml made me wonder if our stock rotors aren't warping as much or as easily as I was previously led to beleive from reading this forum and feeling judder/vibration under braking on my own car.
(bolding added by me)
On my own car, I've had maybe 2 "panic stops" in the 6100 miles I've driven it (bought brand new with 9 miles, off the truck, in June of 02). Both were slow speed. One was in a parking lot, and the other was at a traffic light after just starting to move from a red-to-green light change. It was enough to cause the ABS light to come on and I could feel it skid a little, but that's it. And I have a pretty bad braking vibration. I assumed it was hyper-weak rotors that got warped ridiculously quickly, but now I'm left wondering if that's not actually the case afterall....
(bolding added by me)
On my own car, I've had maybe 2 "panic stops" in the 6100 miles I've driven it (bought brand new with 9 miles, off the truck, in June of 02). Both were slow speed. One was in a parking lot, and the other was at a traffic light after just starting to move from a red-to-green light change. It was enough to cause the ABS light to come on and I could feel it skid a little, but that's it. And I have a pretty bad braking vibration. I assumed it was hyper-weak rotors that got warped ridiculously quickly, but now I'm left wondering if that's not actually the case afterall....
Last edited by bluey2kz28; 03-07-2006 at 04:19 PM.
03-10-2006, 03:31 AM
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I'm not too sure if the stock rotors easily "warp" just due to OE manufacture quality, but they are a wear and tear item, so if you upgrade your pads and have the front end rotor shudder, it's usually cheaper just to replace the rotors with Brembo replacement rotors or similar autozone duralast rotors instead of paying the labour for resurfacing the factory rotors, especially when their thickness may not be up to minimum spec.
AFA the Stoptech article, they are right, and not I'm not saying this because I have their system installed. The runout is usually a result of eneven pad bedding, and not always the actual rotor warping itslef, though if not taken care of in a timely manner can result in much more serious warping to the rotor.
AFA the Stoptech article, they are right, and not I'm not saying this because I have their system installed. The runout is usually a result of eneven pad bedding, and not always the actual rotor warping itslef, though if not taken care of in a timely manner can result in much more serious warping to the rotor.
