I lowered my ss a while ago with eibach springs and a bmr panhard bar , but now my pass side sits about a 1/4 inch lower than my driver side. This is a big problem because i just installed 18's on my car, and that side rubs alot. How can i fix this? I really dont want to have my fenders rolled.

 

Allot of F-bodies sits lower on one side i remeber reading about it awhile ago it seems pretty common . Maybe somone can explain why?

 

Had that problem with my pro-kits too. At frist I bought ground control ride height adjusters and tried using them with the prokits but the car sat too high in the back. I then cut the top coil off and didn't help. I then bought the proper ground control springs for use with the adjusters and the car handled great but the set up was real hoakie. Switched to DMS rears and it's now level.

 

Most people don't realize that the engine and transmission are mounted 1" off-center, over toward the passenger side. I figure that contributes to the passenger side sitting lower (when there is no driver in the car).

 

Factory preset corner weighting and cross weighting. When you get OE replacement lowering springs, the properly engineered ones probably take this into consideration heavily.

 

What company makes OE replacement lowering springs?


thanks

 

Many as listed here. My preferences are the Hotchkis lowering springs and the Eibach Pro-kit. They're OE replacement for the fact that they are a "direct replacement" for the spring themselves while retaining the OE spring mounts and at least an OE replacement shock (Bilstein HDs and revalved HDs, Koni 8241 SA's and 8242 DA's, KYB AGX's, etc.).

 

The kit that i have on is the eibach pro , i just dont understand why they do this.

 

Reread post #5 and also go over what and how you installed your springs again to make sure that you have installed them appropriately (basically, are the "pigtails" properly seated?) and if so, wait for them to settle. Also, what shocks are you using and how old are they?

 

just check this too. make sure the tires are the same on each side. i.e. 255-40-18 and 255-35-18 seen it happen.....................to me! will change the ride height!

 

is that right huh...That would make a difference in time if you drove alone mostly..

 

Yo, Fred, what's up?! Nice to see you here. Those Iforged wheels look sweet. Get yourself a sig, man.

As for your post, I really don't know the answer to your question. I first thought that it could be a problem with your Eibachs since I've read numerous posts about them sagging to one side or sagging at the rear, but Foxxton's reason sounded more reasonable in your case. This is one of the many reasons that I won't lower my car and will wait to buy a new car that looks already lowered and suspension-tuned from the factory (such as the C6 with the Z51 suspension).

Another thought came up...Could it be that you need to recenter your rear-end with your adjustable panhard rod?

 

MY CAR HAS BEEN LIKE THIS SINCE IT WAS LOWERED. I RECENTLY LUBED THE FITTINGS ON MY PANHARD BAR, AND THAT WORKED A BIT. ITS ONLY OFF BY ABOUT 1/4 OF AN INCH NOW, BUT STILL RUBS OVER BUMPS. I JUST THOUGHT THAT SOMEBODY WOUL HAVE AN EASY FIX FOR THIS. ITS DRIVING ME NUTS.

GLAD TO SEE YOU LIKE THEM DAMON Z.

 

Please tell us more what mods you have, especially what exact size wheels you added (not just the rim diameter). If your PHB is indeed adjustible then you could continue to resolve the centering (if it's in the rear only), however you haven't told us the width of the wheels either. If they're close to 11" wide, then you would have to resort to rolling the fenders. Plus are those eibach pro-kit springs or sportlines? If they're sportlines, then there is an obvious reason they're doing that. If they're pro-kits with either OE shocks or regular Bilstein HD's (not revlaved), then that could be another reasons as well, since the shocks dampening capabilities are exceeded by the spring travel and spring rate.

And I hate to break it to you, but as far as 18" rims are concerned with F-bodies, they are not a wise idea for the rear because of the solid rear axle. Many will say they manoeuvre okay and they feel a difference, but appropriate track times will reveal otherwise. I used to have 18s all around and discovered that the smaller sidewalls and larger diameter rims yileded more rotational mass, rotational weight, and unsprung weight with less pliance from the sidewall that affected my lateral grip for the worse and increased my braking distances, not to mention the increase "wagon wheel" effect.

 

my rear passenger side is also about a 1/4 in. it dont effect driving or anythin but i dont like looking at it. my suspension is totally stock also. anyone know the problem or how it can be fixed????

 

Yo Fred! You really need to make a signature!. Anyway I wish i had a answer for ya old buddy. I will be revalved my car before the summer. Im going with the lowered Billstiens and the Hotchkis spring kit.

 

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....44&postcount=5

For most driving situations, it's actually a lot less of a problem like that than having the vehicle absolutely level. If you mess with the ride heights just to make for a car that looks absolutely level all around, you'll end up with uneven cornerweighting and crossweighting, which can result in handling being a pig. Keep in mind that unless you weigh less than 120lbs. or more than 280lbs. you really ought not to mess around with "even looking ride height."

 

Here are the specs. The wheels are 18/9.5 front and 18/10.5 rear.Tires are 275/35 and 295/35. The springs are eibach pro kit with the oe shocks. The only side that rubs is the right rear. wheels are 3 piece forged, much lighter than stock as for rotating mass. I'm not sure if i want to role my fenders because i was told that they might collapse, This was by a custom wheel installer. They wanted to cut them, and i wasnt having that.

 

I'll do it tomorrow. I really do need one though.

 

I didnt like the way my prokit sat so I made custom spacers. 1 spacer is .500 thick. Spacer number two is .800 thick.