HAWK blue 9012 vs HT-10????
04-27-2006, 10:23 PM
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HAWK blue 9012 vs HT-10???? Hi there, i am going to buy a pair of pads for my stock braking system with slotted rotors, which I will be using only for lapping days. Which one would you prefer? Why? Thanks in advance
04-27-2006, 10:52 PM
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Get a set of blanks and be done with it, thoes sloted rotors wont last long in the track invironment.
As for pads, check out carbotech also. They have a good selection on different compounds.
As for pads, check out carbotech also. They have a good selection on different compounds.
04-27-2006, 10:54 PM
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I'm not too sure what your track would be, however by the looks and stats from your website, you probably need more than what the stock system will provide, even on less aggressive club race pads.
I say get a good warm up, go easy with the first laps, then take brake temps. From my experience from lapping, as I got faster, I discovered my stock brakes weren't up to the task, even with Hawk blues, quality blanks, and excellent brake fluid. Also, what type of tyres will you be running?
I say get a good warm up, go easy with the first laps, then take brake temps. From my experience from lapping, as I got faster, I discovered my stock brakes weren't up to the task, even with Hawk blues, quality blanks, and excellent brake fluid. Also, what type of tyres will you be running?
04-27-2006, 11:09 PM
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im sorry what are quality blanks 
As of tires I have yokohoma's competetion track tires, 315/30/17 rear and 275/40/17 front... advan032r's brand new, never been driven
As of tires I have yokohoma's competetion track tires, 315/30/17 rear and 275/40/17 front... advan032r's brand new, never been driven
04-27-2006, 11:13 PM
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"quality blanks" are essentially those that are more durable (e.g. Brembo OE replacement and/or Autozone Duralast) than the POS ones that came stock on the f-bodies, which I believe is mandatory to replace the factory ones with.
Donaimian is right about slots because they aren't really necessary and do cause more harm than good, on track or on street.
EDIT: Your tyres seem reasonable. Keep us updated on how they perform.
Donaimian is right about slots because they aren't really necessary and do cause more harm than good, on track or on street.
EDIT: Your tyres seem reasonable. Keep us updated on how they perform.
04-27-2006, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Foxxtron
"quality blanks" are essentially those that are more durable (e.g. Brembo OE replacement and/or Autozone Duralast) than the POS ones that came stock on the f-bodies, which I believe is mandatory to replace the factory ones with.
Donaimian is right about slots because they aren't really necessary and do cause more harm than good, on track or on street.
Donaimian is right about slots because they aren't really necessary and do cause more harm than good, on track or on street.
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05-02-2006, 11:19 PM
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In all honesty, I wouldn't even run HT-10's, or any race pad with a MOT of 1400 degrees farenheit for what you're doing, especially with a stock style brake system.
By the question of the thread subject, it appears that either this is your first time with this activity in an F-body, or your first time open tracking altogethor. I say if you must, go with Hawk Blues, get a good warmup lap to properly bed in the pads with the rotors, and drive carefully and considerably well below the capability that you predict that you are aware of.
Sorry if this answer might insult your intelligence, but I'm going mostly by what appears in the thread and what I perused at your cardomain page.
BTW, don't know if you're over at frrax or not, but you can perform a search there and if you don't get an answer, you could always post.
By the question of the thread subject, it appears that either this is your first time with this activity in an F-body, or your first time open tracking altogethor. I say if you must, go with Hawk Blues, get a good warmup lap to properly bed in the pads with the rotors, and drive carefully and considerably well below the capability that you predict that you are aware of.
Sorry if this answer might insult your intelligence, but I'm going mostly by what appears in the thread and what I perused at your cardomain page.
BTW, don't know if you're over at frrax or not, but you can perform a search there and if you don't get an answer, you could always post.
05-02-2006, 11:30 PM
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No didn't get offended at all... I tried searching I couldn't find anything unfortunately thats why I created this thread.
Yes this is my first F-body and first time playing with brakes. and also first time at the track... So got bunch of questions... I figured most of them but this has left only. Being an immigrant is another difficulty.
I see HT-10' s are more advanced, so my best bet would be hawk blue 9012's or carbotech panther plus
Thanks guys
Yes this is my first F-body and first time playing with brakes. and also first time at the track... So got bunch of questions... I figured most of them but this has left only. Being an immigrant is another difficulty.
I see HT-10' s are more advanced, so my best bet would be hawk blue 9012's or carbotech panther plus
Thanks guys
Originally Posted by Foxxtron
In all honesty, I wouldn't even run HT-10's, or any race pad with a MOT of 1400 degrees farenheit for what you're doing, especially with a stock style brake system.
By the question of the thread subject, it appears that either this is your first time with this activity in an F-body, or your first time open tracking altogethor. I say if you must, go with Hawk Blues, get a good warmup lap to properly bed in the pads with the rotors, and drive carefully and considerably well below the capability that you predict that you are aware of.
Sorry if this answer might insult your intelligence, but I'm going mostly by what appears in the thread and what I perused at your cardomain page.
BTW, don't know if you're over at frrax or not, but you can perform a search there and if you don't get an answer, you could always post.
By the question of the thread subject, it appears that either this is your first time with this activity in an F-body, or your first time open tracking altogethor. I say if you must, go with Hawk Blues, get a good warmup lap to properly bed in the pads with the rotors, and drive carefully and considerably well below the capability that you predict that you are aware of.
Sorry if this answer might insult your intelligence, but I'm going mostly by what appears in the thread and what I perused at your cardomain page.
BTW, don't know if you're over at frrax or not, but you can perform a search there and if you don't get an answer, you could always post.
05-03-2006, 12:22 AM
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No problem, I'm glad we're of help.
BTW, now that you're looking into club race Carbotech pads as well, you really ought to consider those since Hawk blues have quite an aggressive cold friction property, and might not have the range of operating temps that you will use at the current time.
I actually used Hawk blues on my track car at one point with the StopTech ST-40 big brake setup, and they performed quite well, however their cold friction properties did wear my friction rings down a bit permaturely. My only use for Hawk blues now are for resurfacing my front ST-40 friction rings on both vehicles. I like their cold friction properties for that purpose, but I feel that there are other ones that perform quite well without being overly aggressive when cold. I actually think that their MOT is quite high for a highly modified stock setup.
With all this said, take good consideration into Carbotech.
BTW, now that you're looking into club race Carbotech pads as well, you really ought to consider those since Hawk blues have quite an aggressive cold friction property, and might not have the range of operating temps that you will use at the current time.
I actually used Hawk blues on my track car at one point with the StopTech ST-40 big brake setup, and they performed quite well, however their cold friction properties did wear my friction rings down a bit permaturely. My only use for Hawk blues now are for resurfacing my front ST-40 friction rings on both vehicles. I like their cold friction properties for that purpose, but I feel that there are other ones that perform quite well without being overly aggressive when cold. I actually think that their MOT is quite high for a highly modified stock setup.
With all this said, take good consideration into Carbotech.
05-03-2006, 12:07 PM
#12
The HT-10 is superior in every way vs. the Blue 9012's. I will not use or sell 9012's if I can at all help it. I sell a lot of HT-10's. Highly recommended if you are looking for true track worthy pads and not trying to make them your street pads too. BTW, I don't run HT-10's on the rear, I back those down for balance.......
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05-03-2006, 12:28 PM
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Just out of curiosity Sam,
With the OE front brakes on an open track, will they stand up to MOT's over 1050*F very well? Even with proper bedding, warm up, and cool downs, it took me no time to overwhelm the OE front's brakes once I upgraded my engine, suspension, and tyres.
Also, what is the MOT for HT-10's on the OE system? I don't think it's near the one for my big brake kit, but I'm curious just in case it is.
With the OE front brakes on an open track, will they stand up to MOT's over 1050*F very well? Even with proper bedding, warm up, and cool downs, it took me no time to overwhelm the OE front's brakes once I upgraded my engine, suspension, and tyres.
Also, what is the MOT for HT-10's on the OE system? I don't think it's near the one for my big brake kit, but I'm curious just in case it is.
05-03-2006, 12:33 PM
#14
The stock brakes are not at all bad. Pretty much all an American sedan is legal to run is what we have, 12" dual piston setups. T2 cars, A-Sedan cars, etc. run this stuff all the time. There are also brake ducts available for the car as well.
The "MOT" or maximum operating temperature is driven by the fluid and the pad compound, not the size of the rotors. Larger rotors will accept more heat from the pads, but not that much more especially if they aren't ducted. In the end we aren't talking about 10" discs here.
The "MOT" or maximum operating temperature is driven by the fluid and the pad compound, not the size of the rotors. Larger rotors will accept more heat from the pads, but not that much more especially if they aren't ducted. In the end we aren't talking about 10" discs here.
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18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
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05-03-2006, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Sam Strano
The stock brakes are not at all bad. Pretty much all an American sedan is legal to run is what we have, 12" dual piston setups. T2 cars, A-Sedan cars, etc. run this stuff all the time. There are also brake ducts available for the car as well.
The "MOT" or maximum operating temperature is driven by the fluid and the pad compound, not the size of the rotors. Larger rotors will accept more heat from the pads, but not that much more especially if they aren't ducted. In the end we aren't talking about 10" discs here.
The "MOT" or maximum operating temperature is driven by the fluid and the pad compound, not the size of the rotors. Larger rotors will accept more heat from the pads, but not that much more especially if they aren't ducted. In the end we aren't talking about 10" discs here.
Thanks
05-03-2006, 01:34 PM
#16
I don't sell Carbotech (have my reasons that extend beyond the pads themselves).
I don't have to worry about Blues, because they aren't even shown in newest price list for the LS1 F-car front calipers. HT-10 fronts are $225/set. Shipping would run about $12-15 to your location. I'm not going to quote you exactly, because the price varies if you get more pads (like rears), if it's a residential delivery or a business, etc.
I don't have to worry about Blues, because they aren't even shown in newest price list for the LS1 F-car front calipers. HT-10 fronts are $225/set. Shipping would run about $12-15 to your location. I'm not going to quote you exactly, because the price varies if you get more pads (like rears), if it's a residential delivery or a business, etc.
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
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05-03-2006, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Sam Strano
I don't sell Carbotech (have my reasons that extend beyond the pads themselves).
I don't have to worry about Blues, because they aren't even shown in newest price list for the LS1 F-car front calipers. HT-10 fronts are $225/set. Shipping would run about $12-15 to your location. I'm not going to quote you exactly, because the price varies if you get more pads (like rears), if it's a residential delivery or a business, etc.
I don't have to worry about Blues, because they aren't even shown in newest price list for the LS1 F-car front calipers. HT-10 fronts are $225/set. Shipping would run about $12-15 to your location. I'm not going to quote you exactly, because the price varies if you get more pads (like rears), if it's a residential delivery or a business, etc.
Thanks
05-23-2006, 01:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Foxxtron
Your tyres seem reasonable. Keep us updated on how they perform.
] however, by the end of the day a little bit of sun showed up and my tires were warm enough. When I gave a full throttle I couldn't believe I had a full traction at that shitty wet surface! These tires are incredible... I bet I can do twice as much as what I did in dry easily...bad news is, they discontinued the tires... But i've heard u can get them shipped from Japan
