F-body 50/50 weight distribution. Is it possible?
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I asked this question a few months back and came to the conclusion it would be tough. You can make things a little better than stock by moving the battery to the back, adding a lightweight k member and a-arms,taking out the windsheild washer fluid bottle, or just keep it empty, remove bumper supports, aftermarket lid, lightweight hood,remove fog lights and anything else that can be removed from the front of the car.
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I can't put my hands on the exact numbers right now, but if memory serves...
I had my 94 Z28 scaled out and it was about 550 lbs heavier in the front than the rear without driver. So, you'd have to move about 275 lbs to the rear or take 550 out of the front and keep the rear the same. Side to side the car was almost a perfect 50/50 other than about 20 lbs in the right rear which I figured was due to the spare tire & jack.
The guy who weighed it for me was a stack car racer and was very impressed.
Good luck,
I had my 94 Z28 scaled out and it was about 550 lbs heavier in the front than the rear without driver. So, you'd have to move about 275 lbs to the rear or take 550 out of the front and keep the rear the same. Side to side the car was almost a perfect 50/50 other than about 20 lbs in the right rear which I figured was due to the spare tire & jack.
The guy who weighed it for me was a stack car racer and was very impressed.
Good luck,
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it's definately possible.... the type of modifications that you would need to do, would pretty much kick you out of any road racing class(well, any class that an f-body would have a chance at winning)... so you just gotta ask yourself, "what am i working towards?"
it would be cheaper to buy a C5...
it would be cheaper to buy a C5...
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Id love to see what my car is ... i bet its pretty daumm close to 50/50! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
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The non-SA answer is you can get close wih a new front subframe, lower As, fiberglass hood, battery relocate, AC removal, and battery relocate. I think that is about 150. The battery mod kinda sucks due to the additional cable weight.
On a budget - add bags of sackcrete in the trunk till you have your 50/50. Much cheaper than a vette.
On a budget - add bags of sackcrete in the trunk till you have your 50/50. Much cheaper than a vette.
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I suppose 8 bags of concrete in the trunk isn't the answer
you were looking for.
There's a weight reduction thread (stuck?) in the drag racing
section, battery moved to the trunk gives you a double bonus
less added wiring weight and also puts more over the weakest
tire for traction.
you were looking for.
There's a weight reduction thread (stuck?) in the drag racing
section, battery moved to the trunk gives you a double bonus
less added wiring weight and also puts more over the weakest
tire for traction.
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This is the list of weight saving mods I have. My car weighs around 2850 now, down from 3465 when it rolled out of the factory. It is a factory AC-delete car:
(the above number is without driver). With a full tank of gas, the car is real close to 50/50.
The shift to 50/50 balance is further assisted by moving the battery to the trunk, but I am seriously tempted to get one of those lightweight Braille batteries, and put it between the pass. fender well and the firewall. This would cause another decent weight drop, with the old battery and 20' of 2 gauge cable removed.
- aluminum front bumper and mounts (saved 40 pounds)
- plastic/aluminum radiator (saved 15 pounds)
- LS1 replacing SB 305 (saved 125 pounds)
- T56 + light flywheel and clutch replacing TH350 and TQ converter (60 pounds)
- Wilwood Dynalite front brakes (40 pounds, unsprung)
- Aluminum drive shaft (15 pounds)
- Wilwood manual brake master cylinder (10 pounds)
- Edelbrock musclecar LTH + new exhaust (30 pounds)
- Fiberglass hood and trunk lid (100 pounds)
- Lexan glass all around (50 pounds)
- Corbeau fixed back racing seats (30 pounds)
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
The shift to 50/50 balance is further assisted by moving the battery to the trunk, but I am seriously tempted to get one of those lightweight Braille batteries, and put it between the pass. fender well and the firewall. This would cause another decent weight drop, with the old battery and 20' of 2 gauge cable removed.
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Any car can be made to be 50/50 with weight ballasts! haha As far as getting a front engine, rear wheel drive car to be 50/50 without ballasts, your barking up the wrong tree here. Take for example the Corvette. It uses a rear transaxle as an attempt to bring the Vette closer to 50/50. The engine on the F-body sits pretty far back behind the cowl. It's not too bad, but you're never going to achieve the level a Vette has without adding weight in areas to balance the vehicle.
- Kevin
- Kevin
#12
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Interesting thread, and it's about 11 years old!
About the best way to achieve 50/50 distribution would be to put some lead shot or concrete in the back, as mentioned, but you can still do a lot to the car to help with the handling. I would think a 9" rear would make some difference, but you're still adding weight.
About the best way to achieve 50/50 distribution would be to put some lead shot or concrete in the back, as mentioned, but you can still do a lot to the car to help with the handling. I would think a 9" rear would make some difference, but you're still adding weight.
#13
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Interesting thread, and it's about 11 years old!
About the best way to achieve 50/50 distribution would be to put some lead shot or concrete in the back, as mentioned, but you can still do a lot to the car to help with the handling. I would think a 9" rear would make some difference, but you're still adding weight.
About the best way to achieve 50/50 distribution would be to put some lead shot or concrete in the back, as mentioned, but you can still do a lot to the car to help with the handling. I would think a 9" rear would make some difference, but you're still adding weight.
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Ill have my car pretty close to 50/50 when its done, but its a pretty radical build with about 4 years behind it now.
*Among other things on the build-list are tubular RR K-members
*C4 irs swap (22'lbs heavier than the 10-bolt)
*CF hood (rediculously lighter than stock)
*Dry-sump, Turbocharged 3500 v6 thats been moved 4in back and 4in downward in the engine bay. The engine + turbo system + dry sump system weighs 420lbs combined (the same as an N/A LS, but with zero weight past the front hubs and a 5 inch lower center of gravity)
*26gal fuel cell (I have no idea how much it will weigh when full)
*stainless fuel "surge tank" with dual pumps and transfer pump in the rear
*battery relocated to the rear
*Lexan rear window (aint bought it yet
)
*Back-halfing the car for a roll-cage with integrated IRS cradle (not done yet... Hell... barely even started)
Im hoping to get the weight down to the sub 3400 range with a near 50/50 or possible 48/52 WD (realistic I think) The car will have A.C. and heat for road trips. I might even put in a cheap radio/cd player head unit and some "cheapy" speakers just to be fancy.![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
I've still got a LONG way to go.
*Among other things on the build-list are tubular RR K-members
*C4 irs swap (22'lbs heavier than the 10-bolt)
*CF hood (rediculously lighter than stock)
*Dry-sump, Turbocharged 3500 v6 thats been moved 4in back and 4in downward in the engine bay. The engine + turbo system + dry sump system weighs 420lbs combined (the same as an N/A LS, but with zero weight past the front hubs and a 5 inch lower center of gravity)
*26gal fuel cell (I have no idea how much it will weigh when full)
*stainless fuel "surge tank" with dual pumps and transfer pump in the rear
*battery relocated to the rear
*Lexan rear window (aint bought it yet
![Tongue](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_tongue.gif)
*Back-halfing the car for a roll-cage with integrated IRS cradle (not done yet... Hell... barely even started)
Im hoping to get the weight down to the sub 3400 range with a near 50/50 or possible 48/52 WD (realistic I think) The car will have A.C. and heat for road trips. I might even put in a cheap radio/cd player head unit and some "cheapy" speakers just to be fancy.
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
I've still got a LONG way to go.