The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

I have h/c/headers with bmr lowering springs, poly/poly lca's, adjustable phr and relocation brackets as my suspension mods along with bolt on sub frame connectors.

My question is this, I currently get a lot of wheel hop on hard downshifts and hard launches, would an aftermarket torque arm help this? If so which one would you suggest?

I am leaning towards the sphon because of it mounting at the current tunnel brace location and the fact that it incorporates a drive shaft loop as well.

Any advice would help.

fyi, I did a search on spohn torque arm and came up with zero posts.

Thanks.

Postal

Had the Random Tech adj. tq arm. With heads and cam, still got wheel hop with the arm. Double checked the pinion angle on the rear. The angle was set right with the help of the RT tq arm. I was getting wheelhop with my adjustable tq arm. The LCA relocation brackets is what helped me eliminate the wheelhop.

steve_c

Get rid of the poly lca's...

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

Thanks for the reply. I do have the lca relocation brackets that I installed when I lowered my car and put on the bmr lca's.

I was just wondering if adding an aftermarket torque arm, specifically the Spohn, would help with traction and wheel hop.

THanks.

SSINFUL

I've got the SLP bolt-on SFC's, BMR adjustable panhard, 12 bolt w/ weld-in relocation brackets holding the Hotchkis 2 x 4 LCAs in place, RT adjustable torque arm holding the axle leaning fwd about 3 degrees, Nitto DRs, BMR springs w/ KYB shocks. It's the sum of the parts...

Wheel hop? What's that?

BurnOut

iTrader: (1)

While my car isn't as strong as yours (motor is still stock), I am running some poly/Heim LCA's, and an LG torque arm. No wheelhop whatsoever on acceleration or deceleration.

On the Spohn arm, a guy over on LS1.com broke his Spohn arm awhile back; while Steve Spohn replaced the busted pieces for free (excellent customer service), there was still the issue of low ground clearance. Some time after the broken pieces were replaced, he hit something in the middle of the road (I can't remember what... a driveshaft out of the car in front of him or something) and ripped the mounting points for the Spohn arm off the car. Obviously, this is in no way the arm's fault, other than the fact that the front mount hung down too far.

In any event, he switched to the LG arm and has seemed to be pretty satisfied. If you go to the RR/Auto-X forum on LS1.com and ask around for Glenn, I'm sure he'll be happy to provide you with more details.

Dustin Butts

iTrader: (5)

I have an M6 car. I too suffered from severe wheelhop. I tried poly/poly tubular control arms, poly TA bushing and poly trans mount. No dice..still had the hop. I recently ordered the new style Spohn TA(solid sperical end frnt mount), LCA lowering brackets, adjustable LCA's with poly front ends and chrome moly spherical back ends(no bind when cornering).
Well after welding the brackets on, putting the LCA's in the bottom hole, and adjusting the pinion angle on my TA...all I can say is WHOA!!
No more wheelhop AT ALL! This thing bites and goes even on street tires. I mean of course I still get wheel spin on street tires but man you can really feel the difference. No more "squat and squirm"...just smooth spin and GONE! Just a hard chirp on gear changes now...no more ridiculous spinning and fishtailing. I can't wait to get this thing to the track with the ET streets on ...heeheheeee!! Also the new TA eliminated the major nose dive on hard braking. The spherical ended LCA's now exhibit no bind on hard cornering. The car just freaking cuts smoothly into and comes out of turns like a slot car. AWESOME !!
Also..the SPOHN build quality and fit and finish is EXCELLENT! These parts were absolutely beautiful...they looked so nice I almost hated to install them. Very very nice product...thumbs up to Spohn Performance!!

You will hear and feel just a bit more of the road with all these solid mounts but it is nothing major at all unless you're a Cadillac shmoove type guy. Definitely a livable compromise. They do sell all poly bushed items however.

TEA Rules!!!

<small>[ October 24, 2002, 07:02 AM: Message edited by: Dustin Butts ]</small>

SStolen

iTrader: (22)

'I recently ordered the new style Spohn TA(solid sperical end frnt mount), LCA lowering brackets, adjustable LCA's with poly front ends and chrome moly spherical back ends(no bind when cornering).'

Do you really think the Adj. LCA's really helped? Maybe it was the Relocation Brackets you were missing the entire time. What I don't see is how you guys 'set' the adjustable LCA's and tq. arms. How do you know when the torque arm is at '3 degree's'? How do you adjust this pinion angle?

I also have terrible wheel hop from lowering my car too far. I plan on getting BMR Bolt-on Relocation Brackets, Hotchkis Adj. Panhard Rod and Hotchkis Non-adj. LCA's. Do think this will be fine for now. I will ad a BMR Torque Arm after my Head and Cam install.
I thought Adj. LCA's was more for autocrossing. Would I really notice a difference in everyday driving and straightline performance? I do like to take corners fast but nothing like on an autocross track at those high speeds. Thanks for any help.

BurnOut

iTrader: (1)

SStolen- the way most folks set pinion angle is with an angle finder:

<img src="http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/34200-34299/34214.gif" alt=" - " />

When I had an adjustable torque arm, I set my angle finder on the base of the arm (that bolted to the rear diff). Pretty much as a rule of thumb, you don't want to be more than about 2*-4* down; you damn sure don't want to be up.

As for the adjustability of the suspension, it is my opinion that the only things that really needs to be adjustable are the PHR (to center the rear end under the car after lowering) and the rear mount for the LCA's (to correct LCA orientation after lowering). Everything else is just an opportunity to screw up, IMO. Of course, if you go with LCA's with at least one spherical bearing, you'll (likely) end up with adjustable LCA's (that really shouldn't have to be adjusted if the LCA relocation brackets are properly installed).

Just my $.02...

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

Thanks for all the help guys. Right now I think I'm gonna do an aftermarket TA, but I'm undecided between the Spohn and the BMR. Both have some nice qualities that I like so we'll see.

Thanks.

Dustin Butts

iTrader: (5)

SStolen,
I got the adjustable LCA's because I installed a Moser 12 bolt diff and wanted to make sure I could adjust everything to insure it was perfectly centered back there(a 4 wheel alignment confirmed this). I really wanted the spherical ended LCA because I wiped my car out on a tight s-curve in part due to bind from my previous poly/poly LCA's.
If your car is lowered then you ABSOLUTELY need LCA lowering brackets at a minimum.
I also am planning on an all out assault on my local 1/4 mi drag strip in hopes of a 10 sec time slip. That's why I went with all the hard core Spohn stuff and the 12 bolt diff.
The lowering brackets alone will probably cure your wheel hop if that's your only goal for now.

Glenn98ZM6

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by BurnOut:
<strong>While my car isn't as strong as yours (motor is still stock), I am running some poly/Heim LCA's, and an LG torque arm. No wheelhop whatsoever on acceleration or deceleration.

On the Spohn arm, a guy over on LS1.com broke his Spohn arm awhile back; while Steve Spohn replaced the busted pieces for free (excellent customer service), there was still the issue of low ground clearance. Some time after the broken pieces were replaced, he hit something in the middle of the road (I can't remember what... a driveshaft out of the car in front of him or something) and ripped the mounting points for the Spohn arm off the car. Obviously, this is in no way the arm's fault, other than the fact that the front mount hung down too far.

In any event, he switched to the LG arm and has seemed to be pretty satisfied. If you go to the RR/Auto-X forum on LS1.com and ask around for Glenn, I'm sure he'll be happy to provide you with more details.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">that guy is me!
and i can tell you i love my LG T/A. its lighter than stock, has a zero bind front mount, has held my attempts to get a 1.7 60' (shattered the rear), and lots of track time (RR). my Spohn was 25+ LBS. - not a good thing.
unless you are a total drag guy (1.5 60's and stuff) the spohn is overkill.
remember one thing though, hard down shifts will always result in some wheelhop. the rougher the surface, the worse it will be.

mitchntx

iTrader: (14)

The wheel hop on a downshift is operator error.

You are not rev-matching ...