I just bought a BMR K Member and read recently that it lowers the car 1-2in? If thats the case I can't use it. My front end sits freakin low with the skinnies upfront. I scrape my front end everywhere.
I emailed BMR but have heard back from them.
Thanks,
J

 

I would like to know this as well, I plan on investing in their front end light weight stuff down the road..

 

If anything, I would think it would raise it up, due to less weight on the front end.

*shrug*

Dope

 

A friend of mine has the BMR K member and his front end height didn't change at all. The car has stock springs and shocks (no Bilstein) so it actually sat a little high in the front to begin with. But the K member didn't change front end ride height whatsoever. Great looking piece BTW, and quite a bit lighter too.

 

Nope.

 

How much weight do you drop from going to BMR K-members and A-arms?

 

nope...its is a DIRECT replacement for the factory. I just installed one on my car over Christmas vacation.

I think BMR clames 60 lbs can be cut off by using the K-member and the A-arms.

To give you an idea of how light the BMR one is, I could not lift the factory one by myself (my dad had to help me carry it and even then it was hard) but I installed the BMR one entirely by myself (didn't even need a jack to hold it up...just lifted it up by hand and put the bolts in).

If you have the money...DO IT!!! Just realize that the frontend MUST be realigned afterwords. I used and angle gauge (the kind you sit on the rearend to set pinnion angle) against the outside of the rim to get the camber set so I could drive it over to be aligned.

Funny side note: I figured I would only be able to get in "close"....nope...when the car was put up on the machean and checked.....RIGHT ON 0.7 camber both tires..... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

 

<img src="http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jsbird98/BMRKM.jpg" alt=" - " />
Lou and the K Member
<img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
Thanks guys that is what I was looking for now time to put it on.
J

 

how hard is that to put on 1-10 scale 10 being the hardest?

 

3.5. Tranny rebuild=10, STB=1...all day if you are lost, 2 hours for your second time.

 

This is a really quality piece. Anyone considering the BMR k-member should get it.

My front end seemed a little higher after install, but it could just be me.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Mike Hoffpauir:
<strong> My front end seemed a little higher after install, but it could just be me. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">You now have less weight on the frontend to compress the springs so it is a little higher. I have coilovers and had them adjusted at 1" space from top of tire to fender lip. After the install, I remeasured and it was about 1 and 3/8" (gained 3/8" gap).

 

This piece was 24 pounds lighter than the stock piece. I have only helped install one and it was a biatch. I forgot my helms so we used a chiltons and the chiltons showed exaclty how to do it but a little sentence under all the instructions said "engine removed for clarity" <img border="0" title="" alt="[Roll Eyes]" src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" /> Get a few friends and alot of beer and make a day out of it. It did not cahnge ride height but did raise undercarriage height. I would definitely recomend this piece.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by megathumpzilla:
<strong> 3.5. Tranny rebuild=10, STB=1...all day if you are lost, 2 hours for your second time. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I was under the impression you had to remove the motor to swap K-members... Am I wrong? If I'm not wrong, do you seriously think you could pull the motor, swap K-members, and reinstall the motor in 2 hours? And still call it a 3.5 on a scale of 1-10?

 

Can you pull the motor, install the K-Member and then reinstall the motor in 2 hrs? No.

Can you hook up a cherry picker, drop the old K-Member, install the new tubular K-Member, then unhook the cherry picker? Yes.

 

This is something that is defiently on my upcoming list... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Thats defiently a quality piece... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by SMOKINV8:
I was under the impression you had to remove the motor to swap K-members... Am I wrong? [/QB]</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">yep....your wrong.. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> ...I did it with the car up on jackstands and the motor in (doing a head/cam swap). Put a small jack (engine/tranny are less than 1500 lbs...) under the oil pan, pull the motor mount bolts (which usually requires pulling the headers), and then and lift the motor up off the mounts. Put another jack under the K-member and pull the K-member to body bolts. Slowly let the old one lower down (WARNING!!! THIS THING IS HEAVY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!). Bolt the new one up. Let the motor come down on the mounts. Reinstall Motor mount bolts. Etc....you get the rest.... People are right....it is an all day job (with all the other stuff you have to do) but it is easy.

Chris

<small>[ February 12, 2003, 04:04 PM: Message edited by: 2001CamaroGuy ]</small>